Did they do a good alignment job?



Did they do a good alignment job?

 

Mostly all they did was front and read toe along with camber at only one wheel.
some one will jump in but I dont recall the specs on camber being between -1 and 1, is it?

 

What parts are on your car?

If all stock they can't adjust camber, they can only adjust toe. They probably could fix the caster but were too lazy.

 

Adjustable rear toe links
adjustable rear camber links
adjustable front camber kit.

 

Then they definitely short changed you on your alignment. Didn't fix rear toe and didn't touch any of the camber.

 

how much did you pay?

 

Since this was when I brought it in for a correction after they missed a busted upper ball joint, so $89.95 x 2 + tax

 

Did you tell them you had adjustable components? You need to let them know or else they just play dumb.

 

I go there every year and have been since like 2005 or so or whenever they moved to that building and they actually recommended the components but they have new mechanics there over time.
I guess I could have pointed out that they were adjustable.

I swear I'm ready to just get a DIY alignment kit, get it as close as I can myself, then take it to them to finish it up because that's all anyone wants to do. Does anyone recommend an alignment kit?

 

Yes, you need to remind them all the time.




I don't understand these expectations......

 

I also noticed this bolt was not tightened at all.
what driving problems would this cause?
i guess its caster bolt?

 

Cannot see or tell what you are trying to take a photo of. Can you get a clear picture?

 

Shoot. Maybe later I'll get a better picture. It's the bolt you can move up and down after it's loosened. It connects the Front Lower control arm to the crossmember under the car.

 

I got these. Watched a YouTube video that convinced me I could do it. i just don't trust anyone to touch'er after how i been treated lately.



Tenhulzen Automotive 2-Wheel Alignment Tool - All-in-one (Camber/Caster/Toe Plates) - Made in USA

 

This bolt Bolts into the crossmember where it can be adjusted Up and down. Might not be normal. I had to cut through bottom of crossmember to tighten the nut.

 

Bump

 

Your image shows several bolts. It's my understanding, none of the bolts are adjustable up and down. The sway bar links might be the only "adjustable" bolts but I don't believe the OEM ones are.

You may need to clarify.

 

The bolt i was talking about is the one I highlighted in yellow.

i have the tenhulzen toe plates and it turns out they measure total toe, not the toe at each individual wheel.
my front toe is zero and the rear toe is nearly zero. The car doesn't pull left or right. The driver tie rod shows 10 threads and the passenger shows 13 threads. shouldn't they be equal? And if rear toe isn't zero, how do i make it zero if i don't know which wheel needs the adjustment?

 

There are many variations in the steering system so it is unlikely that the thread count would be the same on both sides.

 

I'm gonna do the string box alignment method on a modded 95 civic EX

you see the video also uses the tenhulzen toe plates to measure total toe.my question is about track width when making the string box.

I found these specs
EG (center to center)
Front - 1475 mm (58.1")
Rear - 1465 mm (57.7")
But i have some Suspension mods like HardRace front lower control arms that required different sway bar links, ASR rear lower control arms, and 95 civic cx trailing arms. Would any of those affect my track width?

 

Sorry, the yellow is very faint on my screen and I didn't see it.

As far as I know, that bolt is not an adjustment bolt and should not move up and down, side to side or in and out. That looks like one of the main arm bushing bolts.

 

Everything affects track width if you're measuring at the wheel center, albeit in teeny tiny amounts. Don't use the distance from the wheels to determine the geometry of your box. Build your string box so the strings are perfectly parallel, then center the fronts and the rears between the strings, one axle at a time. It might take a couple iterations. Build something that mounts to the car or buy a Smart Strings rig (https://www.smartracingproducts.com/smartstrings). I built my own while I was a broke college student but would buy if I had to do it over. I will never ever again do it with the box just set up on the floor, every time you move the car to make an adjustment or do a bounce & roll you basically have to set the box back up all over again.

I have the Tenhulzen plates and they are great for a quick toe check and for doing caster/camber. The string box is my go-to for toe though. It's as precise as the tools you decide to use and on a rubber-bushed street car a 1/16" tape measure gives you more accuracy than your suspension does at +/-1/32". Most importantly it gives you a picture of the car as a whole.

I made a thread a few years back with my homebuilt setup, it's around still if you feel like looking it up for ideas. I'm not positive if the pictures still work or not though.

 

Yea bud that thread pics still works and that's a great idea to just make your own SmartStrings system. Where else can i get those square tube rods and connectors you were using? Lowe's or local fabrication place? And the hook parts?

 

I fabbed it all from stock I got at a local industrial surplus. You could find something at a metal supplier or home store too.

 

100 dollars in supplies and you have a way better way of adjusting, doing all 4 wheels at once.