Howdy fellas..
Just completed change of Thermostat, Water pump, Timing belt, three other belts, alternator, battery on my 1997 Accord LX 2.2
due to overheating, with a major coolant leak at the water pump.

I was thrilled when it fired right up & sounded great...with no coolant leaks.
Here's the current issue: I started it up, got the engine warm(cannot touch the upper rad hose, it's so hot, so figured it was up to temp)
With rad cap off and heat on high, opened the bleeder, and waited for coolant to dribble out..
It did, and I see coolant starting to overflow out the rad fill a tiny bit, so I replace the rad cap.
I have heat
I have no temp gauge movement
I have no fans coming on
After it sits for a few minutes warmed, I see steam making it's way out of the rad neck..
I'm paranoid it's going to overheat, just like it did before all of this work.
I jumped the pins on the thermo plug with key on , and BOTH fans came on
I jumped the plug on the lower one, and NO fans came on

What say you smart fellows?

Rich

 

it sounds to me like the temperature sensor might not be working, not hooked up, or a wire broken going to the ECU.

Can you put a scanner on the car to see if the car sees the temp correctly?

This thread helps a little in explaining what to check, but I would also scan the computer if possible for readings.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/...uge+pinned+hot

 

i'll check it out, thanks!

 

1. The temperature gauge on your dash is controlled by the coolant temperature sending unit under the distributor area. Look to see if that wire is broken.



2. I will assume you're referring to Fan Switch B.



3. If both fans run when you jump the connector to Switch B; but, not Switch A, then you have an open (break) in the wiring related to the circuit from Switch A.

 

It was switch A that caused both fans to operate.
switch B didn't make either one turn

 

If both fans turned on when you jumped the connector to Switch A; but, the fans don't run if the car is starting to overheat, then Switch A may be faulty.

 

I'll be picking a new one up tomorrow: I'll report back as to the results..
Thanks,
Rich

 

ok, replaced the temp switch that's on the thermo housing.
I made sure it was bled: took rad cap off, poured a little coolant in, & watched a steady flow coming out of the bleeder by thermo housing.
It didn't do anything for the fans coming on: however, the temp gauge did move a LITTLE... like it moved about 1/4 of where it usually sits(1/2 way)
I took off the lower temp switch, and jumped that one, and even though I didn;t get fan movement yesterday when I jumped them, this time, the passenger side fan came on.
And again, I do have heat.
I thought, "hey, why not swap the switch I removed, for the lower one?"
I did that, but it made no difference in anything.

So, the issues currently are:
1) no fans coming on
2) temperature gauge is not where it should be
3) if I were to continue to let it run as is, from what I'm seeing, it would most certainly overheat, and I'd be right where I was before I started the project.
and btw, I'm concerned about the stuff coming out of the exhaust...

Appreciate any insight/thoughts..

Cheers,
Rich

 

When you jumped the connector for the fan switch A; both fans should run.

If you turn on the A/C, does both fan run?

 

Only passenger fan came on: yesterday, when I jumped the other switch(at thermostat housing), both came on.
I did push A/C, and no fans came on..
So bizarre that fans + temp gauge are hosed...

Thanks,
Rich

 

Seems like condenser fan is not running today. Check under-hood Fuse No. 34 (15A), which is the fuse for the condenser fan.

 

I'll be back on it tomorrow/weekend

 

1) the fans do not come on when I hit A/C
2)I just swapped the fan relay for the power window relay(which I know works), and no change.
I also, swapped the relays that are near the driver side fan, that didn't make them come on either.
Upper hose very hot: lower hose started to get warm also.
It starts to smoke from the rad filler neck, so I'm nervous to let it run very long once up to temp..
Temp gauge is still riding really low: barely moves off cold..
;/

 

Update: I read here or somewhere, that you can test the temp gauge & associated wire, by shorting the sending wire to ground(single wire going to the temp gauge sensor)
I unplugged it, & had my helper short to ground after I put ignition to ON position.
We did it several times, with the gauge NOT moving at all..
I'm having a hard time finding where I can test the wire for continuity..?
Thoughts?
That's some kinda coincidence that this wire would go bad at this time..

hmm

 

For the condenser fan not running, did you check under-hood Fuse No. 34 (15A)?

 

Has it always had that much white smoke coming out? I would have guessed a head gasket upon seeing that.

 

well, cannot say for sure, but I don;t believe it has done that before..
I'm concerned now, because it was driven very very hot for a few miles, when this whole ordeal started..

 

UPDATE: I was just out re-verifying the fan operation when I jump A & B sensors...

The B sensor(lower one) makes the engine cooling fan come on just fine.
The sensor I replaced was the A sensor... so, I need to replace this one s my next step!
More to report tomorrow!

Thanks all,
Rich

 

Just for clarification, Switch A is on the thermostat housing. Is that the switched you replaced?
Does both fans run if you jump the connector to Switch A, with the ignition on?

 

Correct on both:
I did replace A, on the thermo housing
and yes, BOTH fans spun up when I jumpered switch A