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I was installing my skunk2 v1 b16 intake manifold on my cylinder head when I noticed it has no water port. I've looked at lots of posts, but can't find a picture of my head. Its a pr3-2. Can someone shed some light on this. Its a head from "portflow" I got second hand. Pr3-3 em1 si
I figured as much, but didn't know if this was a weird head. I just was thrown off when I was putting the intake on. Any thoughts on why someone would do this? I'm plan on adding a spal fan and I have a skunk2 radiator to keep things cool. I do plan on contacting portflow for the heads history, supposedly they keep a thorough record of their heads
I was installing my skunk2 v1 b16 intake manifold on my cylinder head when I noticed it has no water port. I've looked at lots of posts, but can't find a picture of my head. Its a pr3-2. Can someone shed some light on this. Its a head from "portflow" I got second hand. Pr3-3 em1 si
The only thing I can think of is the previous owner did a JRSC from ITR/CTR/B16A head to fit to B18C1/B18C4 - GSR P72 head or vise versa which requires you to modify the hole where the coolant goes. Unless you weld closed the unused hole in your manifold, in the long term you may run into coolant leaks.
Maybe they just filled the hole for a JRSC setup cause they had the wrong manifold idk.
If you choose not to run a thermostat, you would also close/block off the coolant bypass circuit between the cylinder head and the thermostat housing. Welding it up is one way to block it off... a more difficult way to reverse if you choose, but it will work.
Yeah, at this point its probably my only option. Unless I i get the themostat housing threaded for a plug, so it could be reversed. This will be my forever car.
Reviving the thread to answer the question. My performance shop said, it was filled in to do a heater core delete. The head came off a previous race car.
Reviving the thread to answer the question. My performance shop said, it was filled in to do a heater core delete. The head came off a previous race car.
The port you referenced in your photos isn't for the heater core... it is a way that fluid stays MOVING through the cylinder head when the Thermostat is closed. This is why it is called a "Coolant Bypass Hose". I would say that your machine shop either didn't explain this very well or was simply confused as to what you were asking.
I was reading an old thread here on bypassing the thermostat for drag racing and its starting to make more sense. The head did come off a race car.https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-r...mostat-798225/. I just have to figure out my routing. Thanks for the reply. The engine is getting finalized and I just finished all the suspension and brake upgrades. Still soooo much more to do.
If you delete the heater core hoses, you simply run the "U" shaped hose that normally connects between the thermostat housing and the (in your case) welded up port on the intake manifold/cylinder head... and now connect the thermostat housing to the side of the cylinder head in front of the distributor. Then put a cap on the other port for the heater core... it is either on the thermostat housing OR the water pipe under the intake manifold.
I have been plagued by new parts failing! New fuel injector flooded one cylinder on the dyno. Luckily it didn't blow up. AEM ecu no longer supported and turned into a paperweight. Got a Hondata now. AEM afr went bad out of the box, new clutch was installed but was the wrong thickness(companies fault).
I'm now waiting on the tuner to install new injectors, check the cylinder rod bearing(flooded one), and finally get tuning!
Thanks for asking. It seems like the car doesn’t like all the changes I've made lol
Car is pretty much done and home. I posted the results on my build update. 172hp. She revs beautifully. I still gotta work out my brakes and upgrade my seatbelts to Match the 2006 civic si seats.