Sorry for any duplication here. Decided to give this information its own thread with the right topic to help others find it, if needed.

PROBLEM SOLVED! WINDOW WORKS CORRECTLY NOW. This is for our 1991 Honda CRX HF; our driver side window regulator (PN: 72250-SH2-A23) was missing the roller that went into the glide that is anchored in the same horizontal plane as the regulator handle/crank. This pin and roller are at the opposite end of the pin and roller in the top-front of the regulator; that entire arm provides the upward lift for the front of the window. Having a solid anchor, and a glide track with little play goes a long way to giving the front of the window the lift it needs.

Problem we had was the driver window tipped/leaned forward approximately 1/3 up, causing the top rear of window to come out of its track - and therefore not close properly on its own.

Had fabricated a replacement pin and roller for the missing one; see first set of photos, below. This helped. Installing it eliminated a lot of the play that existed in the regulator's motion due to the non-existing roller. Instead of the window coming out of its track 1/3 up, it made it 2/3 up; a big improvement, but not right yet.

The replacement pin and roller left a lot to be desired. The diameter of the nylon roller was a few mm short of filling the track (needs to be just shy of 17mm based on measuring others; the replacement was approximately 12mm). The head on the replacement pin was rounded and its threads exposed, possibly causing them to scrape on the channel they rode in. My second trip to the hardware store addressed those shortcomings; see second set of photos below for reference. I needed to reduce the diameter of the new nylon roller to be just shy of 17mm, and I gave it some rounded edges. The long cylinder shaped nylon bushing needed to be shortened to make the overall length be the same as the other pins and rollers (sorry, I don't recall the exact measurement here - nor do I have photos of the finished product). I also needed to cut the end of the pin off, just below the outside nut. In the end, the pin ran in the channel with minimal play and no scraping! This all seemed right/original, and therefore most promising.

During the overall diagnosing process, we also noticed that the front window sash clip was mounted in a different location than the passenger window was; we fixed this too by removing and reattaching both clips to be the same as the passenger window, and using the correct adhesive - '3M Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive', a two-part epoxy-like adhesive for bonding glass with most plastics. This 3M product is specific for vehicle glass, and its instructions describe the process for applying to window door sash clips.

The latest pin and clip adjustment helped again. Now, instead of the window tipping forward 2/3 up, it was now getting to approximately 85%. Good, but still not good enough. The replacement pin and sash adjustment did not fix the play that existed in the center hinge of the entire regulator, or any of the play that exists from the other two older rollers (which I had thought based on measurements, were good enough. They were 16mm+ each in diameter).

We operated the window some more, and determined that the window would go up perfectly when someone applied a small amount of upward lift to the front-bottom of the window. Considering this and the remaining play in the system, we decided to adjust the anchored glide downward (the one anchored in the same horizontal plane as the regulator handle/crank). Since it was already adjusted to the lowest position possible, we drilled its holes to be longer; adding no more than 1/2" on the down side (see third set of photos for reference). Bringing this side of that entire arm down brought the opposite side (front-top) up, and gave the front of the window the lift it needed.

Now, the window works 100% right. No longer tipping forward or coming off of its track. Yay!


Some additional comments/learnings. If we did this again, we would consider doing the following:

• Making the roller a full 17-mm (or bigger) and replacing the other two pins and rollers with the same. I'm thinking that all the rollers should barely/just fit into their tracks so that there is minimal play in the system.
• Using the next size-up bolt/pin - for added strength; this would require that I drill the long/cylindrical nylon bushing out to fit. I don't know that the new pin I used now is too weak, but just noting this as one way to possibly further improve things.
• Learning: We too discovered the lack of new and used interchangeable parts for this regulator. We actually found and purchased window regulators from a 1989 CRX HF and found them to be too long as that car had pillar mounted seat-belts and our car had door mounted belts. In the end, the anchored glide cannot be mounted far enough back due to the seat belt mount being in the way (dang!). I suspect I could find a way to cut around that part of the metal that stuck out, and move the glide back further. I don't know if it would hit something else that was behind it. At this point, I'm not that desperate.
• Learning: The above CRX was a truly a find. It was mislabeled in the yard as a Civic model on their website. Yes, we know CRXs are actually Civics, but their website offers CRX as a distinct vehicle model. So now we pay closer attention to all Civics of this vintage, and look at the trim to determine its CRX status.
• Learning: I believe we could cut the length of the window regulator from the 89 CRX HF to allow it to fit into our 91 CRX HF; this would chop off the existing pins and rollers, and they would need to be replaced with more of the fabricated ones described earlier. I don't see this as necessary at this time; may become necessary if the center joint on ours becomes so worn that no further adjustments (or drilling) can be done to make it work right.
• Learning: As noted above, we drilled the holes for the short anchor glide to be longer/lower. We should have also made them shift a bit towards the front of the door to ensure the roller/arm that rides in this channel has sufficient room for when it is fully rolled up. Right now I do not see any problem with what has been done; nothing is tight or binding, or has insufficient room. If I elongated the holes further, I would direct those hole a bit forward too.

Hoping others find this helpful!

1) Photos showing first replacement roller and pin (v0.1):





2) Photos showing second replacement roller and pin (v1.0):






3) Photos showing lengthened holes for anchored glide: