1994 Honda Civic Ex Crank no Start
So this is what has happened and what I have done so far I have 1994 Honda Civic ex that cranks but doesn’t start with NO check engine light on Now keep in mind I know nothing about cars except the very little I have learned from online YouTube videos
ok so I replaced the distributor cap,rotor, Spark plugs, ignition control module and the ignition coil and it still won’t start but now that crank sounds different and my battery & oil light stays on when I turn the key and it doesn’t turn over I checked to see if there was spark from the plugs and there is none should I just replace the entire distributor and plugs also could I have messed up the timing I double checked the plugs are in the correct spots
any help is greatly appreciated please keep in mind I know nothing about cars thanks in advance
ok so I replaced the distributor cap,rotor, Spark plugs, ignition control module and the ignition coil and it still won’t start but now that crank sounds different and my battery & oil light stays on when I turn the key and it doesn’t turn over I checked to see if there was spark from the plugs and there is none should I just replace the entire distributor and plugs also could I have messed up the timing I double checked the plugs are in the correct spots
any help is greatly appreciated please keep in mind I know nothing about cars thanks in advance
Does the check engine light (CEL) work? When you turn key to ON(II), the CEL should turn on for 2 seconds and then turn off.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
When you have a friend crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and the distributor connector unplugged, do you see the distributor rotor spin?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
When you have a friend crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and the distributor connector unplugged, do you see the distributor rotor spin?
So this is what has happened and what I have done so far I have 1994 Honda Civic ex that cranks but doesn’t start with NO check engine light on Now keep in mind I know nothing about cars except the very little I have learned from online YouTube videos
ok so I replaced the distributor cap,rotor, Spark plugs, ignition control module and the ignition coil and it still won’t start but now that crank sounds different and my battery & oil light stays on when I turn the key and it doesn’t turn over I checked to see if there was spark from the plugs and there is none should I just replace the entire distributor and plugs also could I have messed up the timing I double checked the plugs are in the correct spots
any help is greatly appreciated please keep in mind I know nothing about cars thanks in advance
ok so I replaced the distributor cap,rotor, Spark plugs, ignition control module and the ignition coil and it still won’t start but now that crank sounds different and my battery & oil light stays on when I turn the key and it doesn’t turn over I checked to see if there was spark from the plugs and there is none should I just replace the entire distributor and plugs also could I have messed up the timing I double checked the plugs are in the correct spots
any help is greatly appreciated please keep in mind I know nothing about cars thanks in advance
1) Main Relay, the solder joints on the circuit board can fail over time
2) igniter
3) ECU the electrolytic capacitors fail over time and can cause this situation.
I have one suggestion to get you able to use the car if the problem is the ECU if you leave the key on in the accessories position for as much as 20 minutes the ECU will function and allow the fuel pump to prime and start...
Does the check engine light (CEL) work? When you turn key to ON(II), the CEL should turn on for 2 seconds and then turn off.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
When you have a friend crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and the distributor connector unplugged, do you see the distributor rotor spin?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
When you have a friend crank the engine with the distributor cap removed and the distributor connector unplugged, do you see the distributor rotor spin?
over yesterday and briefly looked at it and there is power at the ignition control module and ignition coil. Also to answer your other question the rotor in the distributor is moving.
I'm thinking check
1) Main Relay, the solder joints on the circuit board can fail over time
2) igniter
3) ECU the electrolytic capacitors fail over time and can cause this situation.
I have one suggestion to get you able to use the car if the problem is the ECU if you leave the key on in the accessories position for as much as 20 minutes the ECU will function and allow the fuel pump to prime and start...
1) Main Relay, the solder joints on the circuit board can fail over time
2) igniter
3) ECU the electrolytic capacitors fail over time and can cause this situation.
I have one suggestion to get you able to use the car if the problem is the ECU if you leave the key on in the accessories position for as much as 20 minutes the ECU will function and allow the fuel pump to prime and start...
I removed what I assume is the main relay from the fuse box under the driver side it is a black box like thing with three electric like prongs and when I looked inside one of the spots did look burnt out to me.
Also I thought the ignition control module was the igniter. Is that correct or no are they different.
did you remove the battery NEGATIVE cable prior to working on the distributor internals? If not, you may have blown a fuse. Check the fuse box under the hood.
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Sounds like the battery is drained or low on charge now, have it re charged/ tested at the local auto store its free. Or use jumper cables and have it jump started to see if it will turn over.
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