started this thread to document my f22b1 build. I'm going to be going much further with this build than anyone has ever gone. have you ever seen an f22 block with a 1.786 rod ratio? thought so. my children come first little ones love there motored toy's too. keeping that in mind not sure how long this build will take. the more its dived into the more higher the $ gets but its getting done one way or another. if you have any questions, thoughts or comments reach out to me.

 

You'd probably build a more powerful and reliable motor if you left the stock sizes, swapped in forged pistons and crank, and ran a turbo. Stroking it is not going to gain you much, really. It's just not that kind of motor.

Good luck.

 

essentially it will only be the bare block being used the stroke will be 90.7mm the rod length is whats changing. its technically a destroker since stock f22b1 stroke 95mm and h22 crank ill be using is 90.7mm. once the block gets here ill be changing the deck height from 129.5mm to 145.5mm with the h22 crank with a std 90.7mm stroke and 162mm rod lenth. will have a slightly higher ratio than the f20c or f22c. this will help significantly with durability of the crank, rods, pistons and cylinders. it will also decrease the head cfm requirements by slowing down the piston speeds reducing the velocity of intake and exhaust airt
at points in the cycle. this will also allow me to run much higher rpm that with a stock 1.48 rod ratio and at the rpms ill be running wont throw the piston through a cylinder at the bottom of the stroke. the build is changing as I design it because things do not compute together at points. the deck height being added may change to accommodate combustion and dome height of pistons the rod length will be maintained as long as it does not cause a negative affect on other component so i can maintain the rod ratio im trying to obtain. after receiving the block and adding the deck height the block will be releive of any stress and every significant surface will be decked, bored or machined someway or another. after that custom mid block sleeves will be made to accommodate the new deck height. bore size, combustion height, deck height etc will be finalized soon once everything is simulated and working correctly with all components including the cam profile, head valves etc.

 

rod length will be 160mm to accommodate not adding more that 16mm deck height.

 

my approach to this build is simple make as much power without comprising reliability while adding an aspect of durability to the engine. this build will be done in stages. first stage with be f22 block with the added 16mm deck height(will probably increase since i can't find billet crank at stock h22 stroke) wet sleeves, billet crank froged 160mm rods and forged pistons also everything that comes along with these modifications. in the next few weeks I will have 1 or 2 extra block and begin designing the deck block to match the f22 block at the base and the h22 head at base that way ill be able to run an h22 head gasket with out having to modify it. the 160mm rods and 100mm stroke will give me a 1.6r/s ratio not as good as with the 90.7 stroke but will give me a better better bottom end and won't put significantly more wear effects on the piston or cylinder walls.
if you wanna follow this build and my other builds across mx bikes atvs jet skis etc. my Instagram
BILLET POWERSPORTS & PERFORMANCE
first stage
of this build for this block will cost some where around 4k depending on how many parts i machine myself ex: balance shaft delete plugs, timing gear to match h22 cams etc. this 1st build will be n/a for a short period im interested in seeing what kind of power this engine can make with an n/a setup. this does not include intake manifolds throttle bodies aem ems etc. those cost will all be on top of the blocks cost.

second stage
will be adding the 3k of the billet head and all valve train components still n/a and possibly at that point if not done in the first stage b series tranny swap.

third stage
this stage unconfirmed of what it will include would 100% include forced induction of some form possible tube frame move the front wheel C/L foward 3 inches and place the mother 2-3 inches back to get a bit better weight distribution this wil effectively get me to the same point of the European touring cars that used f blocks with the h22 head reversed which allowed them to move the engine back and run longer intake runners instead of reversing my head which is alot of machine work and 400 buck a head gasket ill achieve this by slightly modifying my wheelbase. I can also move the rear wheel base foward if I build a full frame cause as you know when you build something off your own design you can do whatever you want.


things will change along the story of this build I have no particular purpose to this build besides to be able to blow peoples minds when they ask what's in it. it be used in compitition after this third stage if not already. and at this stage the will be a 2nd block being built as a back up and consist of any rev changes this is going through a documented design prosses and will consist of revision changes etc.

reason I chose the f block

it seems like the cheapest block to modify i see be series machining cam journals to run h/f series cams I've seen b series blocks with deck block welded to achieve this same aspect in my career I can weld on a deck plate and machine the cylinders for the sleeves I cannot however machine cam journals so the f block as a base make sense to me since if there no damage to the mid engine sleeves from darton I can throw them in another block if I need to.

 

Looks like you have yourself ready for a bit of custom work. Wish you all the best with your build, I'm keeping my eye on this one.

 

thank you and yes diving far into the design her make sure its perfect in the virtual world before i bring it to reality.

 

Wondering how this turned out

just recently got a 97 exr with 189k so I’m planning to do something with that