Hello,
for my 2007 Honda Civic LX 4 door Sedan 1.8L Engine.
I turn on the A/C using both the Max A/C button or normal A/C button and it blows out hot air.
i opened the hood with the car running and A/C, Fan Speed and Cold Air **** running at maximum and notice that the AC Compressor does not spin.

Could the problem ONLY be the AC Clutch Relay?
If there is no Freon left will the same behavior occur?

any information would be great thanks

 

Low freon will also disable the AC clutch. Need to hook up gauges and see what is happening.

 

so i hooked up some ac gauges.
i have a high of 120 psi on the LOW SIDE.
and i have a low of 130 psi on the HIGH SIDE.

i have changed the AC Clutch Relay to a brand new Relay and the AC Compressor Clutch DOES NOT SPIN.
At this point. what would be the next steps in diagnostics?

 

The clutch fails to engage, but does the condenser fan run when you turn on the A/C?

If you or another member can post a circuit diagram for the A/C system in the 2007 Civic, I should be able to help you troubleshoot the problem.

 

The AC Condenser fan seems to be working just fine. Both the radiator fan and the AC condenser fan were spinning very well.
And the AC Compressor still was not spinning at all

Any idea what the next steps to take?

 

i dont know if this diagram is enough but it may help some

http://toddheffley.com/wordpress/wp-...8/ACtestUS.pdf

 

The last page of the document is useful as is the additional information you provided.

1. See last page of document. Follow the instructions to retrieve DTCs (codes) thrown by the heater control panel. Post any codes that are retrieved.

2. Tap face of compressor clutch with a rubber mallet when the A/C is turned on and the condenser fan is running. Does the tap cause the compressor clutch to engage?

 

These may be the circuit diagram for 2006-2011 Civics:

 

before i saw your post today, i saw a video of a mechanic hitting the clutch in, he found out that the problem was the clutch assembly being rusted.
When i get a chance over the weekend, i will hit that clutch with the AC Running and report the results.

As for the diagram, thank you for posting it... at the same time, i must admit i dont know how to read diagrams that well.. i could kind of make out whats going out but to be honest its very confusing to me. But hopefully it comes to good use here

i will post back after doing DTC diagnostics and once i gently hit that clutch with the AC Running at MAX

 

Depending on the results of your upcoming tests, the circuit diagram may still prove useful. If you have any questions about the circuit diagram, I'd be happy to help.

 

Cool thank you!
So I ran the AC diagnostic on the car.
I believe I might have just gotten one light up but I'm not 100% sure. I believe it could be zero light upsatoo.

Either way, I took a video shot, let me know if you understand it.

 

No codes thrown by the heater control panel. That's good.

Now give the compressor clutch a tap.

 

I'll tap that clutch after weekend. Possibly Monday. Thanks for your help thus far!!!

 

so i took off the wheel and hit the AC Compressor clutch a few times. I hit it soft, i hit it hard, i banged the center and i banged the edges and nothing. It didn't turn on. I had the AC on full blast while doing it and nothing.

 

Sounds like there may be an electrical problem. Do you have or can you get a multimeter?

Have you checked whether 7.5A hood fuse #20 (or #29?) (see circuit diagram) for the compressor clutch is blown?

 

should i get me a multimeter with a clamp?
i want to buy a very good mulitmeter.. probably by flux but i see some that are like $30 up to like $1100.
I want a very good one so not sure which one to get.. At this point do you recommend a multimeter with a clamp on it?

 

The upper Fluke multimeter would be a great tool, but you really don't have to spend $400 to do automotive electrical troubleshooting.

The clamp type multimeters are useful if you regularly need to measure AC/DC current.

A $25 multimeter, like the one below, would do just fine:

 

I ordered a Fluke 117 for now. Worth around $200. I'd probably need it to test circuitry around the house and stuff.... its auto-ranging which is good. Just waiting for it to come in the mail.
Once i get it what should i measure.. should i measure the fuses/ you mentioned? Any thing more than just fuses and relays?
Please do provide details cause im new to measuring electrical components.

Thanks for all your help man!

 

The first test is to determine whether battery voltage reaches the compressor coil on the Blu/Red wire.

Unplug the Blu/Red wire at the compressor.

Set multimeter to read DC voltage.

Start engine, and turn on the A/C.

Touch red meter probe to the Blu/Red wire (wire harness side) and the black meter probe to an unpainted clean bolt on the chassis.

Post the reading.

 

Just got the Fluke 117 in the mail.
In order to test the connection would i have to take out the alternator and/or the AC Compressor?

 

You should be able to access the Blu/Red wire under the car or from a wheel well. Were you unable to see the Blu/Red wire when you tapped the face of the compressor clutch?

Post some pictures.

 

ill remove the wheel and see if i can find the wire harness connection for the AC Compressor.
Once i find the connection, ill unplug it and then do the steps as you mentioned above.

 

You also may need to remove the splash shield below the engine bay.

 

Will remove the splash shield.. i havent had time to diagnose.. its been raining like crazy. Hopefully it does not rain like it did this past week so that i can continue on.