Have a fully built gsr block
and b16 in my 92 hatch. Tuned on hondata s300 never had any issues but today it threw code 4 for crank position sensor and won’t rev past 3500. It has been sitting awhile and gas is probably old but last time I drove it it ran fine. What could be causing the issue? Where do I start

 

Problem lies with the distributor as that sensor is inside the dizzy.

Have you tried to clear the code through the Hondata/ Smanager?

Is the software for the Hondata up to date/ newest software?

Check the wiring to the distributor plugs as well as the jumper harness used for the ECU.

 

Start by Ohm testing the two CKP sensor wires from the ECU connector.

 

have not tried to clear through hondata.

doubt the software is updated I haven’t used it in forever. How do I update it?

i don’t think there is a jumper at the ecu, everything is obd1.

 

Just weird it ran fine last time and now started up fine and a few minutes down the road it happens

 

Grab your laptop and connect the ECU to the laptop with a usb cord. You need Smanager downloaded and open the program. If its already downloaded open Smanager ,

https://www.hondata.com/help/smanage...forupdates.htm


Update the software.

Click the lightning bolt and get online, check the ECU codes and erase them.

https://www.hondata.com/help/smanage...?cleardtcs.htm

Check your distributor and or give the engine a basic tune up!

 

so I updated my smanager and plugged in to the ecu today. Got same code obviously and cleared it. Came right back on.

next I went to the distributor. Cap and rotor looked real good. I have a second dizzy so I swapped it out and still got the code.

as far as tune up, cap and rotor looked good, plugs looked really good.

could something have went bad in the ecu?

 

 

which wires are these? B15 and B16?

how do I check them

 

You need a multimeter. And yes, B15 and B16.

Measure resistance (Ohms) between the two pins. You should read 350-700 Ohms.

Then check for continuity to body ground (short to ground) for each pin individually.

If both tests indicate spec readings, then replace the ECU.

You would also benefit by not listening to advice from wunfstgsr.

 

The OP's OBD1 ECU and engine either don't recognize or lack a CKF, respectively.

 

Yea I just realized that and deleted the post.

 

Never messed with wiring before so bare with me.
Obviously I unplug the harness from the ecu and then check the wires at the plug?

Do I have to check anything at the ecu?

Also going to send the ecu back to the tuner and have him check over the ecu to make sure nothing went bad in there

 

Disconnect the battery. Remove ECU and unplug ECU connector B.

No. The tests are done from ECU connector B.

First do the simple Ohm tests on pins B15 and B16 because the ECU may be fine. If the Ohm tests prove fine, then ECU is likely bad. Then go from there with your tuner.

 

Awesome, thanks a lot for your help. I will get the connector and go from there. ill update with my findings

 

Could this be the issue? I can’t get a reading between the 2 pins

 

There seems to be one bad pin.

Which ECU connector pins are B15 and B16? Can you also show the wire colors on the rear side of the connector?

Repeat the same test but from the distributor connector (not wire harness side).

Do you get the same result or do you now get an Ohm reading?

 

tried both end connectors from distributor and got same result

 

From the distributor side or from the wire harness side. I was suggesting that you repeat your test in distributor side connector.

I added more text to my previous post. Take a look.

 

I checked the the 8 pin connectors on the distributor and same result.

in the picture the top left and bottom left are 15 and 16. Color blue and yellow I believe

 

B15 = Blu/Grn wire
B16 = Blu/Yel wire
Which one has the bent pin?

The same two wire colors are present for the Crank sensor in the distributor connector (pins B and F). What is the Ohm reading between these two pins on the distributor side?

 

yes those are the ones I checked on the distributor and didn’t get a reading (OL)

the bent pin is b16 at the ecu connector

 

If your multimeter results are correct, you should either install replacement Crank wires and/or Crank sensor into your distributor or replace the entire distributor. You also should remove bent ECU pin B16 and carefully bend in back into shape.

Did you happen to Ohm test the TDC and CYP sensors from the ECU connector to verify that they instead yield spec Ohm readings?

 

i think my plan right now is, I ordered new pins and a new B plug because that one looks chewed up. I will check and swap the bent pin.

that is a different distributor then the one I originally had on. I did not check the other sensors. I unhooked the battery then unplugged the connector and put the probes on the pins and couldn’t get a reading

 

replaced the bent pin at the ecu connector and the entire connector. Put original distributor back in and still same problem.

going to try and run 2 wires from distributor to ecu and bypass the harness to see if maybe a wire is messed up in the middle. Ordered some wire and a new plug and some more pins