currently i have a stock d15b2 in a 90 dx hatch, and I have a d16y8 head and a p28 ecu, and i also want to do the mpfi swap, would it be easiest to get a non obd1 ecu? If i were to stick with the p28 would the d15b7 distributor work? I think it would be beneficial to source a vtec obd0 ecu, (pr4 or pm6 i believe?) Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

the pr4 and pm6 are not vtec ecus
they are obd0 normal engine ecus

looks like your gathering parts right now
what you need it a intake mainifold
one that will work with 4 injectors
you can use one from a 88-91 civic si or civic ex
a 92-95 civic dx lx ex si
even the y8 one from the 96-2000 civic
all those year mainifolds will work for the 4 injector set up youll need to do your mpfi swap

thats where i would start first go from two injectors to 4 and then enjoy that for a month or two
you can barrow or buy a obd0 ecu like the pr4 or pm6 for the mpfi swap only

later on you can swap out your d15b2 head for the y8 one
all you need to do is swap the head and nothing else
you can use all your obd0 stuff along with it
basically anything that bolts to your d15b2 head will also bolt to the y8 head

enjoy that for a month or two

then if you want to be reving the crap out of your engine and engaging vtec
then youll need to do the obd1 swap
youll need the obd1 dizzy yes like the d15b7 for example or a d16z6
or even the obd2 d16y8 one will work after you rewire it
youll need the jumper harness for the dizzy so you can use your old obd0 plugs on the obd1 dizzy plugs

youll also need the jumper harness for the ecu plugs inside the car
so you can use your obd0 ecu plugs on the obd1 ecu the p28 you mentioned

theres some info
what do you think?

 

Thank you so much for the info, helped me a lot with the order i should be doing things! going to be collecting parts while i fix rust and do body work! Thank you

edit: should i just be using the stock injectors and injector plugs for the ones i pull of the mpfi car? thanks

 

Please note that if you get a 99-00 intake manifold, this has an air pathway that needs plugged. See here:
https://civic.gotskillslounge.com/ci...nifoldswap.pdf

 

I was at the u-pull today trying to snag one off of a 94, difficult to do and go all but one nut off the manifold because the mounting for the fuel rail prevents my ratchet to get in there and the open end of the wrench started to round the bolt, going to have to go back with a better wrench or maybe a swivel socket, how do i tell obd0 and obd1 injectors apart, and i have seen some conflicting info on low/high impedance injectors, the eg didn't have the resistor box so does that mean i will not have to get one if i use the injectors from that car?

 

D15b7 dizzy is what you want for running y8 head on obd1. Y8 manifold is the best but only auto or manual models work, can't remember which.
p28 would prob run fine but getting it chipped w a basemap can take more advantage of the higher than stock c/r you'll be running.

 

Your best bet is to use a 12mm closed end wrench (not a ratcheting wrench) to loosen the intake manifold nuts.

Measure the resistance of the injector - OBD0 are low resistance (around 3 ohm?) and OBD1 are higher resistance (around 10 ohm?). Google it - you should be able to find out what resistance to look for. If they are in an EG, they are saturated / OBD1 / high resistance.

You are correct, if you use OBD1 injectors you do not need a resistor box, even with an OBD0 ECU.

 

also a general rule of thumb is that obd0 injector plugs are clear/yellow
and obd1 are gray /dark gray