I bought a Honda Civic si em1 matching vins except engine in this case It had a b16a last owner didn’t know anything about Honda’s he just said a lot of last owner told me he did this and that and blah blah bs so me trying to learn about my own car here it goes has a b16a block and head but with that being said I know for a fact it’s obd1 or 0 never seen 0 so I’ll take 1 I used the paper clip trick got my engine lights but I was told by fellow Facebook groups to get my car to obd2 meaning buy a dizzy/alt/ and fuel injectors I would like to know if I would need a harness ob2 or how can I do this I’m just trying to get my car ready for emissions and then later on be able to build a motor but for now just trying to learn about these codes are ,7,10,14,41

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running on a p28 idk if it’s chipped but it has a jumper harness

 

Beware. You may have purchased a nightmare. Returning the engine to OBD2B may be expensive and time consuming. Seriously consider selling the car, and making a wiser purchase next time.

Start here: Clear the codes from the ECU. Do all four CEL codes return after driving the car?

 

If it has a jumper harness to the ecu to run a p28 you should be able to buy a factory em1 ecu and remove the jumper and plug in the original ecu

But I'm not familiar with obd1-2 conversion s

 

damm bummer but will try I know o2 isn’t working because my harness got yanked when trying to change my oem exhaust system and I didn’t know wich cable went to what connector to the o2 sensor but I’ll erase em and see if I still have the other ones but apart from that how would you know then if car is obd1 or obd2? Like oem harness i can’t tell or know how to I tried researching but all research is vague to my search but apart from that I have my p2t ecu I tried to take the jumper harness and plugging into what ever harness it has and plugged in did a spark no turn over I wonder why it would do such thing I heared the fuel pump prime but I doubt putting starting fluid would make it turn over my guess it’s different timings from the p2t to p28 like wouldn’t they have different timings? Idk man but other then that what would be the expensive way to fix it? Like what would I have to do to actually make it to pass emissions and work thanks for your reply

 

idk what quote is but if it’s reply then I have the ecu it self both of them I plugged the p2t wich is oem to em1 and car did crank no turn over you can see my last message explaining this but yeah idk man I’m lost at this point we’re I could even start like like if I were to buy a em1 harness and obd2 parts like dizzy/alt/injectors you think they would plug all up to the new em1 harness and would the harness plug up to the motor and idk man like you get me? Also would the em1 connect to the radio and all the features the em1 has they all work but with the harness from idk what it is but yeah I’ll probly see then I’ll get a em1 uncut harness obd2 parts those mentioned and just try to see if the fuse box plug would plug also to em1

 

The stock EM1 Civic and its P2T ECU are OBD2B.

The P28 ECU is OBD1 and is likely chipped (hopefully with a B16A base map).

If you want to connect the P2T ECU, then unplug OBD1-OBD2B conversion harness and plug the P2T ECU directly to the stock OBD2B ECU connectors.

 

The JDM B16A does not have a provision on the oil pump for the crankshaft fluctuation sensor (CKF). If an OBD-2A/B style oil pump with this provision must be installed for the engine to run properly. In addition, the other codes that you have outlined above will make it difficult for the original ECU to run the car as well... so focus on fixing all codes first and THEN try swapping the ECU back.