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Hi, I've got a 99 Civic with D16Y8 with around 205K on the motor the car is running rough and under powered. The check engine light is flashing occasionally and it is running so rich it is spitting raw fuel out the exhaust. Timing is correct and ignition time is set to 12 degrees like the manual says
New plugs, wires, ignition coil, and upstream O2 sensor. Any help would be appreciated
Did the misfire issue start before or after you did the ignition system tune up?
Stored codes are p0300 Multiple/random cylinder misfire detected, P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire, P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire, P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire and Pending P1399. The engine has been sitting for about two years.
The spark gap was consistent. The spark wire are in the correct spot on the distributor. It has fresh gas and fuel injectors are plugged in correctly. It only seem to have problem when you are driving it when its sitting idling or revving up it doesn't seem to have a problem.
The spark gap was consistent. The spark wire are in the correct spot on the distributor. It has fresh gas and fuel injectors are plugged in correctly. It only seem to have problem when you are driving it when its sitting idling or revving up it doesn't seem to have a problem.
Replace the old distributor cap, rotor, and fuel filter. Also check for clogged fuel injectors.
What is the condition of the distributor internals when you remove the cap, rotor, and dust cover? Post pictures.
I check the injectors they are working but its seem like all I'm getting now is P1399 only and black soot out the tail pipe and back bumper. Mullersfan is there a way to check the ICM. Honda in my town say when they worked on them they just replaced it with one that they knew that worked
AutoZone used to check them, but not sure they still do.
Purchase an ICM and return if it doesn't eliminate the misfire.
The fuel in the exhaust is likely due to the misfiring. Hopefully the cat survives the running rich, which will melt the cat substrate.
Still having misfire. This morning check compression all good did unplug the injectors, clean the spark plugs and ran the car then got all of the cylinders to misfire. Then replace the ICM still getting random misfire
Look at the chart a the the bottom posted page. Which of the listed misfire conditions is the best fit with yours?
The ignition coil i got new from Honda about two weeks ago but who knows how long it had been sitting on a shelf. Before that I didn't have spark. It does have the dust shield in the distributor. For the trouble shooting chart it seems to be in 2k to 4k. Its got a new IAC valve from Autozone but seems to have the idle bounce 1k to 2k.
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Try to answer ALL questions. Otherwise, this thread may remain unsolved until 2021.
Post the compression numbers, and how you did the compression tests.
Chart: Misfire under acceleration or steady speed?
Ohm test the coil.
What brand plugs are installed? Spark plug gap checked?
What brand O2 sensor was installed? When and why was it replaced?
Have you measured the fuel pressure and tested the FPR?
Honda or aftermarket distributor?
Any oil or brown dust inside the distributor?
Compression 1 167psi 2 160psi 3 175psi 4 185psi
Under acceleration
Ohm of the coil + to - .9 ohm + to secondary 17.31 Ohm
NgK plugs factory recommended
Ntk O2 and it was replaced a couple of weeks ago because i didn't have a upstream O2
Don't have a fuel pressure tester waiting on a gauge
Factory Honda distributor
Noting in the distributor
Did you subtract the internal resistance of the multimeter from this^ primary winding reading? No I didn't subtract the resistance of the multi-meter because its a higher end multimeter blue point meter
Did you verify the gap on all 4 plugs? yes pulled them out and used a feeler gauge
Why didn't you have a primary O2 sensor? How long did you run the car this way?[/QUOTE]
Change out to a new header after i put the car back together. Never ran the car without the O2 sensor
Did you subtract the internal resistance of the multimeter from this^ primary winding reading? No I didn't subtract the resistance of the multi-meter because its a higher end multimeter blue point meter
What is the resistance reading when you touch the two meter probes together?
yes pulled them out and used a feeler gauge
What was the gap?
Does inspection of the plugs give any clues?
Change out to a new header after i put the car back together. Never ran the car without the O2 sensor
Stock Y8 header?
Was the original sensor bad? If not, why did you replace it?
What work were you doing?
Last edited by muellersfan; Jun 20, 2020 at 08:24 PM.
What is the resistance reading when you touch the two meter probes together?
What was the gap?
Does inspection of the plugs give any clues?
Stock Y8 header?
Was the original sensor bad? If not, why did you replace it?
What work were you doing?
Lead to lead was .1 ohms at 400 ohm its lowest setting
Megan Racing y8 header the O2 sensor was replaced because of a fire
Spark plugs where gapped at .04 from the factory didn't have to regap The tips where gray like it was running lean but towards the threads there was soot build up
Does pic show current state of engine bay? Probably would have been important to mention in your first post.
Referring to the spec coil readings I posted, you can see that your primary coil winding reading is out of spec.
I was fine, it was at home at the end of the driveway.
Here's the current pic of it at the same spot where it caught on fire. I'm about to find another distributor that is know to work.
Check engine Light flashing and running rich
Re: Check engine Light flashing and running rich
