I want to know if there is a way to fool the VTech solenoid into engaging VTech constantly.

 

I don't think you would want to do that. VTEC on a SOHC is for improving fuel really more than performance.

I would suspect the car will run worse if you try to do this. To have the VTEC trigger, I believe you need 60PSI of oil pressure. One can shim a pump to produce more pressure it kicks in earlier. But all the time seems like a bad idea.

If you are looking for horsepower, there are other things to do, like put a turbo on it.
Import Turbo Kits

 

I don't care about performance on an engine with 325k miles, fuel economy, wear, etc. I have no motives for power out of this block/head, I just want to do it cause its fun to hear a car like this with an extra intake valve opened up with some more lift. Just sounds neat. This engine is meant to die anyways. The pump is diminished on idle enough to throw an oil pressure warning light, is fine running. Pump is stupid expensive, not worth ******* with. Just figured I could trick the sensor with a false reading of the oil pressure somehow and have a few laughs at stop lights before it kicked the bucket and I drop the k in it and start really getting it.

 

Ah, ok. An oil pump is like $50. If that's too expensive, I'm not following.

If you want to just a get a few laughs, hook up a nitrous kit and go to town. Just buy a cheap one like a sneaky Pete.

I'd sell the motor to someone who might need it and is willing to replace the parts rather than destroy an engine needlessly. Especially in these times, I've been giving away car parts I don't need (such as struts/springs/control arms/ to people who are in desperate need and no job and who will do with used parts to keep running.

I gave my old engine away (effectively) for $50 to someone who lost their job and was desperate.

Just a thought.

 

$300 for an oil pump. You're just offering other ideas that I did not ask for. I asked is it possible to trick the sensor into thinking it's reading high oil pressure...you're telling me to throw nitrous and try forced induction. If it's not possible then just say it isn't. Its just hard to find information on this kind of engine since no one really dicks around with them all too much. I have the cash I'm not wasting my time. I figured I could short/ground/throw some sort of resistor in line and throw a false reading.

 

Too true. I did offer some thoughts in an attempt to understand what the purpose was. Your response was that you basically want to do something stupid so you can destroy your engine. I apologize for offering some thoughts presuming

1 - That you were trying to actually solve a probelm vs being a moron
2 - Once I understood you were trying to do something destructive, to offer a response to perhaps help someone else in this world vs blowing up something for no good reason except you want to do something destructive since you are going to replace anyway.

Now that I understand where you are, I will offer no other advice.

 

I appreciate your time and understanding. While the engine is still in operating condition, it is no longer suitable for modification, as it stands. I do not intend to use this modification to, as you say, "destroy the engine" though. I am going to be clearancing all bearing surfaces for new ones, honing the block, milling the block and the head, porting the head, stage 3 bisimoto, bisi valve springs and valves. New pistons and rods, and at some point, forced induction.

What I'm trying to do, in fact, is find a way to lock vtec for stronger hardware that I believe is more suitable for it. I am function as well as form for this build. I am going to be altering the engines sonic characteristics with an uneven length header modified from a b-series flange to an f-series, with a welded on t flange for boost. That paired with the header and the vtec lock will make the car the first in many categories

First F22B1 to run an uneven length turbo manifold with locked VTech

I'm trying to play this off as "blowing it up" so others do not copy me.
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dis-assemble the rockers, remove the spring and VTEC drive pin(s) replace each with a solid steel dowel. guessing it's an 8mm diameter about 20mm long. forget the oil pressure, doesn't matter after that.

 

Thankyou!

 

is there any companies that make these pins?