Hey Guys

I'm currently trying to one man bleed my clutch using this method outlined in this video
The problem I'm having is there are constant bubbles, and they never disappear. I don't see any fluid coming out of the lines indicating a leak. Also yes I make sure the reservoir is full.
This is the clutch line I'm using. It's an aftermarket one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tucked-Stai...53.m2749.l2649
Not sure if this clutch line could be a culprit.

How would I go about finding out which component is the culprit?

 

The end of the hose inserted into the collection container must always be fully immersed in brake fluid while you press and release the clutch pedal. Otherwise, air will re-enter the hose.

The other end of the hose must be tightly attached to the slave cylinder nipple so that air cannot enter at that location.

 

Grab a friend, family member, stranger, mailman, whoever to help you bleed it. It's a PITA to do it by yourself, even with a one-man bleeder mechanism.

 

If vac bleeding, some people
use heavy grease around the bleeder fitting so air doesn't get past the threads, you can also wrap Teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder fit so air doesn't get in when it's loose.

Mini vac one of the best cheap tools ever made!

 

RUSSEL or EARLS speed bleeders!!

Makes bleeding brakes and the clutch slave an easy One Man job.

or

Keep the reservoir topped off and the line that's connected tot he nipple tight and just keep pumping the clutch pedal. You probably just had an empty clutch slave and all the air is just getting pushed out.

 

I asked my mother to help me bleed mine last time haha she also helped me swap a ITR swap in my Integra once haha

 

Moms are the best.

 

Yes sir indeed!

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I found out that one of the fittings wasn't full tied down. I'm still having trouble here though. Still see bubbles coming in using the above method in the video. However I was able to use the OEMTOOLS one man bleeder. Link to what I used here ->
Using this method it seems I was able to fully bleed the system(no bubbles popping up) However the pedal feels like trash. I'm barely able to shift into gear and the pedal does not come all the way back up. When I lift my foot the pedal just rests at the bite point. Not sure if i damaged something in the process. Any suggestions? Also I forgot to mention that I'm using Dot 4 brake fluid. Manual mentions that I can, but maybe that was a bad idea.

Edit
Other questions I have is do the slave or master cylinders from autozone/o rielys tend to have issues? And when bleeding the system how am I likely to damage the components in the system.

 

buy them from Amazon...ADLER, which is the same one Honda sells, without the higher price.

 

Adjust the clutch engagement nut on the master slave cylinder, you will have to crawl under the steering wheel and get to the clutch pedal.

 

"Nissin" is the OE Honda supplier for clutch and brake master cylinders... is the ADLER brand a re-boxed Nissin product ?

 

Ok I managed to get a hold of a Adler Slave Cylinder(some one from the local Honda community offered one), after bleeding the clutch it felt ALOT better. It isn't 100% but thank you for this. I going to get the master cylinder as well, and hopefully that ups the performance.

This was the money shot right here. This made it so that the clutch came up 100% percent of the time instead of some of the time with that new Adler part. I actually though this adjusted where the pedal sat lol. I had to really, really adjust it far out though. There's barely any thread left, like maybe 1 or 2 turns. I'm thinking this auto zone master cylinder is junk. Can't wait to see if the Adler Master performs better.

 

From what I heard, it's the same exact thing...





I replaced both cylinders a few months ago and have no issues, fitment or leaks.