I'd love to get everyone's opinion on this motor I just acquired. It came to me in pieces with some light scoring in cylinder 3 and an exploded rod bearing. I'm still doing some research but it looks to be mostly there. I'm looking for info on two things:

1. I've never touched an H series before and assuming this came from a prelude si. I'm having a hard time finding out specifically what the engine code means if anyone can chime in on what I have on my hands here.

2. How would YOU rebuild this motor on a budget with the main goal to boost and shoot for around 400-500whp? At the very least, I'll need new rods, pistons, rings and machine work on the block, head and crank. Would I need to sleeve? I'm considering swapping this into a 99 civic if it's worth it.

Thanks in advance!

 

yes you need sleeving
and very good traction/upgraded suspension and brakes

you cannot do budget turbo build

 

You do not need sleeving IF you use Mahle Gold Series pistons... if you choose any other brand, you WILL have to sleeve the block.

 

They do not "need" sleeving, it is possible to bore/ hone the walls and use Mahle Gold pistons safely.

Traction/ suspension brakes are all good recommendations but have nothing to do with the engine build as asked.

They can do a build on a budget, so stop telling people it isn't possible. Maybe they have a car that already has a bunch or prior work done. Maybe they want to do Gold pistons, some rods and an ebay turbo kit. Maybe they want to tinker in their garage and have some fun. There are many choices people can make aside from an all out monster build.

 

boost with stock cylinders is hardly ever good idea. sleeves for longevity and safe mind - less problems with sleeves

no point of building engine if you cannot get power to the ground

fast reliable cheap - pick 2

with tight budget you have to cut corners resulting blown engine and back to square one

 

On point of the original post, looks like you have a jdm H22A, OBD1 closed deck engine. If the walls are scored, I would either sleeve it and do new forged pistons, or if you find a very competent machinist, try to Mahle Golds. In interest of ease and longevity, I would go the sleeves route.
You will obviously need new rods, and have the crank checked well before using it.
Most people who build these do the balance shaft delete, which also helps to increase oiling to the crank and rods. When using forged pistons you can also delete the oil squirters for piston cooling, which again increases oil pressure.
Some ARP head studs and main studs would be a good plan, and upgraded valvesprings etc. to rev higher.
Stock cams are generally good for boosted applications up to say 600 whp.
If the engine has the hydraulic LMAs in the head, I would swap for the spring style, for safety and quiet operation.

 

Hey thanks a ton for the info guys. Really appreciate it.

To be honest, the walls have very little scoring at all. I can't feel any hangups running my fingernail across the cylinder wall. A feel like a good hone, crankshaft session and Mahle Golds would do me well here. I'll dial in NA at first and move on to boosting if I feel good about her.

My second dilemma however is identifying my camshafts that came with this pile of parts. They have Skunk2 pro series cam gears installed on them and I'm starting to think they're older Skunk2 cams as well?
The ends are hand engraved "P2E" (exhaust) and "P2I" (intake). The "P2I" cam engraved "2" is also much smaller than the P and I. I measured the vtec lobe lift and this is what I came up with:
Intake: vtec 12.4 (.488)
Exhaust: vtec 11.625 (.457)
Were stock crankshafts hand engraved on the end? Here's a picture of them actually. Any help would be appreciated!
Cheers!

 

They appear to be early Pro 2 camshafts.

 

Agreed, older Pro2s. What kind of springs/ retainers are in there?
Just curious, how much did you pay for the motor, might have gotten a good deal here haha.

 

Thanks guys. Yeah, everything I've found says they're Pro 2 camshafts and the pro series gears are icing on the cake. Does anyone have the full specs on these early Pro 2 camshafts? I've emailed skunk 2 but nothing back yet.
I'll get a closer look at the springs/retainers. Hell, those might be good as well! No idea how long this sat in pieces. Probably awhile by the looks of it. Head is in great shape though and valves look decent.

The motor was 250 for everything and came in pieces. Missing two pistons/rods which also look to be stock (p13). Could be missing small parts as well.

I'm not sure if I want to part this out or build it at this point. Problem is I've got a second b series I could easily sink more $ into.

 

Yup, just had a closer look at the head and sure enough, it's got Titanium Crower retainers. This motor is getting sweeter and sweeter.