So I have a 97 civic dx that I had just recently stripped down and painted, got a 96 teg and took the b18b1 out and painted the motor. Everything is mounted and hooked up. I went To go and try to start it and nothing came on. The next day I just Figured I would Try and start it again and the lights on the dash came on, and when I went To start it the starter clicked twice and then I lost All power again, I checked The grounds and they were all good. So I got A jump pack and tried jumping it and when I did So something sparked in my car and my door/light chime got super quiet and then after I took The key out and put it back in it got loud again. I’m at such a stand still and have no clue what to do.(also I checked The grounds after it sparked with a test light and only the ground coming off the battery lit up)

 

You got wiring issues. you need to make sure you didn't cross some ground and positive wires.

 

The new paint is likely interfering with key ground connections (e.g., G1, G3, G101). Clean threads of the ground bolts and holes. Then go from there.

 

Another thing is I wired An obd1 distributor to and obd2 harness, do you think I should Try to unclip that and see if that is what’s wrong? And I have Sanded down th paint and cleaned the holes already because I thou That was the problem originally.

 

The proper way to clean paint from ground bolts and holes is to use a thread restorer. Rent one from AutoZone.

It seems clear that the starter does not crank. Does the engine have bright spark at the plugs? Does the fuel pump prime? Do the headlights work and are they bright?

 

the fuel pump primed once and that was when I went To start it and the starter clicked twice and then I had No power again. And I’ll have to stop by autozone and pick that up tomorrow.

 

Focus on the G1 battery, G3 transmission, and G101 thermostat ground bolts and holes. Then go from there.

The thread restorer kit is a free rental. You pay for the item, and AutoZone gives you a full refund when you return it.

https://www.autozone.com/lp/loan-a-tool

 

Thank you I will Reply with an update as soon as tomorrow 👍🏼

 

x infinity

 

So I use the thread restore and all my grounds are connected and have power now. Fuel pump primed and all my lights came on but my power went out and I cant Use the jump box yet. More on it when the power comes back on.👍🏼

 

Take your time and look over your work.

the days of connecting the spark plug incorrectly....sigh....

 

Still nothing cleaned the bolts and the holes and once I tried To start it nothing came on and the grounds aren’t lighting up the circuit tester.

 

Do ANY of the car's electrical functions work such as the headlights and hazard lights?

Please provide more details about these^ tests.

Do you have a multimeter?

 

There were 2 instances where the car turned on and the fuel pump primed perfectly, just didn’t have enough power to crank the car, after I would try and start the car the starter would click and all power would be lost again

i have a test light and made sure the grounds had connection. I attached the clip to the positive and checked the grounds, and after I had No power, I checked The grounds again and the only one that lit up was the main ground cable.

 

The G3 transmission ground cable attaches to the transmission at one end and the chassis on the other end. Use the thread restorer again at both ends of the G3 cable and also redo the G1 battery ground at the chassis end.

Do your headlights, hazard lights, and horn work?

Do you have a multimeter?

 

1.Look at the pictures And let me know what you think

2. No, nothing other than the door chime

3. Yes

 

Use the multimeter to measure voltage between the following two points:

1) The + and - battery connectors (not posts).

2) The + battery post and the transmission housing.

3) The + battery post and the thermostat housing.

Post the voltage readings for each test.

 

1. 12.76 with the battery connected

2. jumping from 11.9 to 10.1

3. 10.88

 

With key OFF, now measure voltage between each of the two test tabs on installed hood fuse 53 (hazard lights) and the - battery post. Post the two voltage readings.

 

.1 and .3 and as of right now the rear hazards work

 

Do the same test on 80A hood fuse 41.

 

12.81 and 12.80

(I miss Read it the first time and I recheck The fuses and there are 12.8 as well

 

Now same test on 40A hood fuse 42 that feeds voltage to the ignition switch.

 

You mentioned that the rear hazards worked, which does not fit with the low voltages on the fuse 53.

 

I know, I said That I rechecked Them and they were 12.8-12.7

and the 40 amp ignition is also 12.8