Why did clutch lose pressure during engine rebuild? Did not remove hydraulic lines
I just rebuilt the engine on my 1992 Accord Wagon (325k and ready for many more!). After putting everything back in, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays there, and though the shifter goes into gear, it doesn't seem like it is actually in gear because the engine will still turn over manually. I did not disconnect any of the hydraulic clutch lines or replace the master or slave cylinder, so I expected there to still be pressure in the clutch lines and that I wouldn't have to bleed the system. There were no issues with the clutch before the rebuild, and I do not see any fluid leaking anywhere along the clutch lines or at the master cylinder or slave cylinder. I'm ok with bleeding the lines - I just didn't expect to have to do it, so what am I misunderstanding? Or could there be something else going on?
It could be the fluid is just low. Once it gets too low, you have to put fluid back in and pump it until you get the pressure back.
If it's not fluid then linkage has somehow gotten stretched or in some way needs to be retightened.
If it's not fluid then linkage has somehow gotten stretched or in some way needs to be retightened.
I had fluid in the reservoir and it wasn't going down when I pumped the pedal. I saw a diagram of a the clutch master cylinder and realized the rubber part that creates the vacuum might be bad - even though there were no problems before, the car has been sitting for awhile and has had moisture in it, which of course can cause problems to arise. I took out the master cylinder and sure enough, it didn't have any resistance/wasn't pumping anything. I've got a new one in now, but am still trying to bleed it. I did a bench bleed, but how do you get it back in the car without the fluid spilling out? LOL. Pedal is still staying on the floor, so I think I've got an air bubble in the master cylinder. Anyone ever had any luck jacking up the front of the vehicle to get the air bubbles to rise?
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