91 EF setting time, jumper, but check engine light not turning on
91 EF, new dizzy, b18a motor but everything still OBD0 no hacked up harness (from what I can tell)
Not my first honda, but this one seems to be weird, maybe I am missing something. First OBD0 car though, always had OBD1 Honda)
Install dizzy , start car (it ideals), jumper the service connector (to in theory lock timing at 16 degrees), but check engine light does not turn on. And timing seems to move as car warms up. When I set the time base off of timing light and everything, car feels out of power at lower end. Like timing is not correct.
Mechanically everything is timed correct (Check 3 different times)
The wires are connected to ECU to service connected (metered)
I am missing something, or doing something wrong? Does the timing move as it warms up and you only set timing hot / cold when service connected jumped? Is there another way to lock timing?
Not my first honda, but this one seems to be weird, maybe I am missing something. First OBD0 car though, always had OBD1 Honda)
Install dizzy , start car (it ideals), jumper the service connector (to in theory lock timing at 16 degrees), but check engine light does not turn on. And timing seems to move as car warms up. When I set the time base off of timing light and everything, car feels out of power at lower end. Like timing is not correct.
Mechanically everything is timed correct (Check 3 different times)
The wires are connected to ECU to service connected (metered)
I am missing something, or doing something wrong? Does the timing move as it warms up and you only set timing hot / cold when service connected jumped? Is there another way to lock timing?
If its B swapped, the ECU may have been changed out for tuning. Hondata for example has a different procedure for setting timing.
Check the ECU and get the part #s from it, that may help figure it out.
Check the ECU and get the part #s from it, that may help figure it out.
Yes already swapped to a PR4 obd0 ecu, which is the factory ecu for engine swapped into car.
Not sure why I would need to swap to OBD1 and hondata just to set factory timing, trying to keep one car I own simple.
Not sure why I would need to swap to OBD1 and hondata just to set factory timing, trying to keep one car I own simple.
Sorry, I wasn't saying you need OBD1 / Hondata, only that its common to use for tuning. Sounds like you for sure have an OBD0 PR4 though.
The OBD0 PR4 ECU has the same timing jumper pin as the PM6, so it should work, and you say you've tested connectivity.
For the engine light, from what I understand it won't come on for OBD0 when that connector is jumpered, only OBD1 and up.
Was the car completely warmed up? Timing is going to fluctuate as it warms up since timing / fueling maps adjust for temperature. I would let it idle up to operating temp (thermostat open), jumper the connector and then check timing.
The OBD0 PR4 ECU has the same timing jumper pin as the PM6, so it should work, and you say you've tested connectivity.
For the engine light, from what I understand it won't come on for OBD0 when that connector is jumpered, only OBD1 and up.
Was the car completely warmed up? Timing is going to fluctuate as it warms up since timing / fueling maps adjust for temperature. I would let it idle up to operating temp (thermostat open), jumper the connector and then check timing.
Yea that is kind what I have ended up doing, AEM EMS is so much easier sometime, but not wanting to double the cost of the car...
Would be nice if the check engine light came one to know it is working... but I guess that was high tech in the 90s
Would be nice if the check engine light came one to know it is working... but I guess that was high tech in the 90s
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