My 93 del sol keeps blowing head gaskets. I had the head checked for warpage and it is OK. Could it be the block? I got the gaskets from Carquest ( Felpro ). Someone said that could be the problem. Any thoughts? A gasket from the dealer cost $140. Felpro was $32. Should I consider buying another used motor?

 

Stop using FelPro head gaskets... they suck for Honda's.

 

a non turbo car should not be blowing head gaskets unless something is wrong. Only use Honda oem head gaskets, get rid of the felpro garbage...... either the head is not getting torqued down correctly or the block might be warped. Has the motor ever been overheated?

 

Yes, it was over heated, if it is the block it would probably be easier change engines. I looked on ebay, the only one that said OEM was around $ 80. Is there something I should be looking for?

 

that’ probably about right for a oem head gasket, and if the block is warped it would require complete disassembled and machine work unfortunately

 

Are you using a precision straight edge to and correct feeler gauges to check both the head and the top of the block? The maximum spec clearance between block and head is .004" but ideally should be .002" or less.
A precision straight edge is more precise than a $10 harbor freight (non-precision) straight edge. This is what you want: Also you'll want to check for cylinder and block flatness like this: https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/...-straight-edge

As others mentioned use a Honda genuine (oem) head-gasket.Why go through all that work and chance using a non-oem part? Spend the extra money and do it right. Try searching on HondaPartsNow
Are the headbolts for that year (generation) re-usable or are they tty stretch bolts that can only be used once? Any of the block's head-bolt holes stripped? Are you using correct crossing pattern and three-step torque specs?

 

This is not necessarily correct. Pretty rare (but not impossible) for a block to warp out of spec due to overheat. A cylinder head can certainly warp out of spec due to overheat. Using a junkyard or pulled ebay engine that is not overhauled is a crap shoot as well because they could have issues too. Best to do a dry and wet compression test (and preferably a leakdown test) prior to pulling the cylinder head off. If there is no compression leak through the compression rings in the block, no signs of cylinder damage or cracks when head is removed, and block passes flatness check then it's better to go with a known good block than an unknown one.

 

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it.

 

Add my vote for OEM head gasket. Worth the $.

​​​​​​Add my vote for true straight edge for checking head and block.

Add my vote for comp and leakdown tests.

Are the bridges between the cylinders on the head still sharp and clean? I've seen the aluminum get eaten away there, causing the material to thin and become weak.

How is the head gasket failing? Coolant into the cylinder? Pushing coolant out? Bad compression? Any particular cylinder?

Improper head stud torque?

​​​

 

I'd go copper spray on y8 mls 3 layer. The head bolts on a D are fine to reuse for any scenario that doesn't involve studs anyway. and yeah, def check surfaces.

 

Alot of these guys have some great advice.

But just to add to the post please have the head and block checked for it being warped. If it is indeed warped pretty bad, not amount of copper spray or thick head gasket will help with this.

From personal experience with my B18CR motor overheating, getting the head and block checked will save you from pain in the long run.

 

NO and NO. Why do you even need a 3 layer headgasket?

 

Multi layered steel, strongest seal. Surfaces must be reasonably fine in finish, the copper spray should be used w more belt sander-ish heads and is good cheap insurance anyways. Slight compression increase and cam rotates back accordingly, driveability unaffected one way or another. Really an upgrade.

 

you do realize a factory Honda H/G is MLS too, right? No copper spray needed.

 

Negative, D15b7 has the .048" composite gasket.
I usually forego copper spray too but it can't hurt.
p.s. a 10$ piece of tempered glass from some glass shop is accurate to .0001", cheap way to check surfaces.

 

Autopartsway tends to carry the Ishino leak gasket for the D15B7's. It's the mls replacement that has the proper thickness to replace the graphite composite gasket they used on non vtec motors from 88-95.

It will say it's the leak gasket and needs different headbolts etc.

I found using the thinner Y8 gasket, the motor pinged under load way easier even with ignition timing retarded a fair amount.

 

My 11/1 b7/y8 was fine on 92 oct.

 

Don't forget this!