New to working on a Accord, got questions
Hello everyone, I'm new here and pretty much new to working on an Accord and I got quite a bit of questions; My parents have a 1999 accord EX with an i4 and a automatic transmission, as far as they tell me the car has loss of power going on hills, this makes me think that its either a transmission issue or a engine issue, as for the engine it has 170.000 kms and the last service that was done was a fuel tank clean up and spark plugs so the fuel systems seems be working good which leads me to the next questions:
- Parts (Where can I get parts for honda vehicles, I'm talking OEM ones but only for sensors, for anything else related to engine or transmission I usually go aftermarket but I don't know what site is a reliable one)
- Diagnostic ports (This honda was assembled in Venezuela, not sure if manufactured and for some reason it doesn't have an OBD2 port, it has that blue 2 pin + 3 pin connector under the steering wheel cover; now I do have an OBD2 scanner and I'm wondering how can you read codes apart from the counting method by jumping the pins, is there some sort of adapter that I can buy for the OBD2 scanner?)
- Manuals (Is there any place I can get my hands on a factory service manual or alike?)
- has anyone experience loss of power on their accords (Would like to hear what happens and see if its a starting point to diagnosing)
For parts, as long as you have time, I would use RockAuto to start. They had most things I've needed.
Here's a place to start if it's not under the drivers side dash: https://www.outilsobdfacile.com/loca...Honda-accord-6
Favorite place for Honda accord shop manual: Moderator Deleted (Links to copyrighted material not allowed)
Sounds like a tune up is in order: distributor cap, new spark plugs, new wires. I'd start there, skipping what you said was already done.
For the transmissions, I would take apart and clean the Solenoids to see if they are clogged:
I would also change the fluid in the transmission. For a person at home, this means three changes to get it all. You do a change, drive it for a week or so, change it again, a week of driving, change it again the final time.
For an older car, I tend to like Maxlife transmission fluid, but OEM Honda is good as well.
Here's a place to start if it's not under the drivers side dash: https://www.outilsobdfacile.com/loca...Honda-accord-6
Favorite place for Honda accord shop manual: Moderator Deleted (Links to copyrighted material not allowed)
Sounds like a tune up is in order: distributor cap, new spark plugs, new wires. I'd start there, skipping what you said was already done.
For the transmissions, I would take apart and clean the Solenoids to see if they are clogged:
I would also change the fluid in the transmission. For a person at home, this means three changes to get it all. You do a change, drive it for a week or so, change it again, a week of driving, change it again the final time.
For an older car, I tend to like Maxlife transmission fluid, but OEM Honda is good as well.
Last edited by tech8; May 2, 2020 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Moderator Deleted (Links to copyrighted material not allowed)
In the states Majestic Honda is fairly priced, check their for price and then compare to your local dealer prices. In the states some dealers use 'matrix'(price gouging) pricing. Ask for retail price.
Rockauto has good prices for aftermarket, but check shipping and any import taxes.
Diagnostic ports (This honda was assembled in Venezuela, not sure if manufactured and for some reason it doesn't have an OBD2 port, it has that blue 2 pin + 3 pin connector under the steering wheel cover; now I do have an OBD2 scanner and I'm wondering how can you read codes apart from the counting method by jumping the pins, is there some sort of adapter that I can buy for the OBD2 scanner?)
If not, use the two wire blue connector. Jump connector with wire, turn ignition to II(ON), watch CEL/D4/ABS/SRS lamps for codes.
Which Accord is yours?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_...xth_generation)
Try and pull codes first, post the code number(s).
Online dealer sites for price checking.
In the states Majestic Honda is fairly priced, check their for price and then compare to your local dealer prices. In the states some dealers use 'matrix'(price gouging) pricing. Ask for retail price.
Rockauto has good prices for aftermarket, but check shipping and any import taxes.
Most countries outside of North America didn't have OBDII til 2000. Your car may still only be OBDI, or not equipped with an OBDII port. But you can find a scanner that is regional that plugs into both plugs for live data.
If not, use the two wire blue connector. Jump connector with wire, turn ignition to II(ON), watch CEL/D4/ABS/SRS lamps for codes.
I would think your car is a N.A. 'CG', but this generation Accord had a few variants.
Which Accord is yours?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_...xth_generation)
Various faults can cause power loss.
Try and pull codes first, post the code number(s).
In the states Majestic Honda is fairly priced, check their for price and then compare to your local dealer prices. In the states some dealers use 'matrix'(price gouging) pricing. Ask for retail price.
Rockauto has good prices for aftermarket, but check shipping and any import taxes.
Most countries outside of North America didn't have OBDII til 2000. Your car may still only be OBDI, or not equipped with an OBDII port. But you can find a scanner that is regional that plugs into both plugs for live data.
If not, use the two wire blue connector. Jump connector with wire, turn ignition to II(ON), watch CEL/D4/ABS/SRS lamps for codes.
I would think your car is a N.A. 'CG', but this generation Accord had a few variants.
Which Accord is yours?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_...xth_generation)
Various faults can cause power loss.
Try and pull codes first, post the code number(s).
I dug out the registration with the Vin number and its not giving any results, as I said the car is from Venezuela, I checked the chassis a bit and it was made by the Mack truck company here In venezuela, So maybe they made the chassis here and assembled the rest from import parts.
From what I saw was on the wikipedia link, there's nothing resembling this but on the registration it says Accord LS EX 1999, don't know what the LS means since the only badge on the back is EX.
Not sure if is considered OBD (I think not) it has the blue 2 pin + 3 pin diagnostic connector, as you said theres is actually a method to jump the pins and read on the dash but I was wondering if there was an OBD adapter or something alike. I will pull the codes tomorrow.
I was surprised to see that the transmission is on the engine bay, not sure if its on the passenger side but there is a lot of oil residue on the parts there from what I saw, could the loss of power be related to a low fluid level on the transmission?
I don't think this is engine related but you never know as far as my test went there are no cel or mil on the car, need to jump the pins to see if there are any code but the engine seems fine it accelerates and it cracks right over on the cold start.
Checking the dipstick is fine for checking the level, but changing the fluid can help, and cleaning the solenoids could also help.
If there is oil everywhere, it could the valve cover, distributor ring, a loose sensor, oil pan (maybe). Boring, but you will want to clean it down and see where its' coming from, because it is just as likely the steering rack or others areas are leaking at this age of vehicle.
If there is oil everywhere, it could the valve cover, distributor ring, a loose sensor, oil pan (maybe). Boring, but you will want to clean it down and see where its' coming from, because it is just as likely the steering rack or others areas are leaking at this age of vehicle.
Trending Topics
Checking the dipstick is fine for checking the level, but changing the fluid can help, and cleaning the solenoids could also help.
If there is oil everywhere, it could the valve cover, distributor ring, a loose sensor, oil pan (maybe). Boring, but you will want to clean it down and see where its' coming from, because it is just as likely the steering rack or others areas are leaking at this age of vehicle.
If there is oil everywhere, it could the valve cover, distributor ring, a loose sensor, oil pan (maybe). Boring, but you will want to clean it down and see where its' coming from, because it is just as likely the steering rack or others areas are leaking at this age of vehicle.
As for the trans leaking I cannot find anywhere where the trans pan is, I tried looking for a gasket for it since the trans is pretty wet with oil down there and I found nothing online.
The factory only uses Hondabond.
Hondabond, so pretty much rtv with oil resistance.
Hey so I have an update, So the leak on the Upper timing cover at the right side there was a puddle of oil, I took the valve cover off and it seem the gasket is pretty much toasted and that's where is leaking also the park plugs valve cover gasket are toasted and they broke; Now, I did see a bit of oil on the timing gear but Im assuming that's normal the belt seemed dry.
As you are replacing all the spark plug gaskets and valve cover, make sure you check to make sure there are not any rubber pieces left in the engine that have fallen in from falling apart.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
As you are replacing all the spark plug gaskets and valve cover, make sure you check to make sure there are not any rubber pieces left in the engine that have fallen in from falling apart.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
Oh yeah I saw some pieces in there I removed, was wondering where did it came from until I saw the cracked and broken park plug seals.
As you are replacing all the spark plug gaskets and valve cover, make sure you check to make sure there are not any rubber pieces left in the engine that have fallen in from falling apart.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
If it helps, this is a very common Honda/Toyota thing, replacing the gaskets. At least it's pretty straightforward to replacing them.
I locate Honda part numbers on the illustrated parts list using an online Honda auto parts seller's website. Just search on Google 'Honda auto parts' and sites will come up that use the same parts search website.
I recently bought a rebuilt Linear Solenoid Assembly from Sonnax Transmission, located in Eugene, OR, and also I bought the pentagon tool required to adjust the pressure set screws. The price was more affordable and I had the satisfaction to install a Honda part rebuilt to factory specifications.
https://www.sonnax.com/
Other transmission sensors I found at the local parts stores, or by shopping the Honda OEM supplier websites like DENSO or NGK (NSK) to find the replacement part rather than ordering through the auto dealer.
For understanding the function, symptoms, and troubleshooting of the four Transmission solenoids and Transmission Range Switch, I found this website to be very informative.
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda
I recently bought a rebuilt Linear Solenoid Assembly from Sonnax Transmission, located in Eugene, OR, and also I bought the pentagon tool required to adjust the pressure set screws. The price was more affordable and I had the satisfaction to install a Honda part rebuilt to factory specifications.
https://www.sonnax.com/
Other transmission sensors I found at the local parts stores, or by shopping the Honda OEM supplier websites like DENSO or NGK (NSK) to find the replacement part rather than ordering through the auto dealer.
For understanding the function, symptoms, and troubleshooting of the four Transmission solenoids and Transmission Range Switch, I found this website to be very informative.
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda
Keep in mind when doing the transmission. Fluid replacment is not like the engine, there is a lot of fluid still in the torque convertor so although you might grab two gallon of fluid, you will want to drain and measure how much comes out, and replace with that amount, then check the level to see where you are. To fully change the transmission fluid will take probably 3 changes done over a period of time, each time getting more fresh fluid. I bring it up because I have often seen people overfill not realizing they have not fully drained it and the tranny acting weird or even blowing a seal from overfill.
E-CB1
CB1 1301234
F20A 1095678
If that is the case, then the 'CB1' will designate what chassis your car is.
Honda also made variants of the Accord and Civic and sometimes the names get thrown around in different markets, there was the Ascot, Ascot Innova, Rafaga, and Torneo which are slightly different variations of Accords/Legends. So you might have something like that, plus your year range may not be the same as other nations. Or it may be a Civic variant. If you know your engine size that would help narrow down what your version of Accord is, or simply uploading a picture of it.
Not sure if is considered OBD (I think not) it has the blue 2 pin + 3 pin diagnostic connector, as you said theres is actually a method to jump the pins and read on the dash but I was wondering if there was an OBD adapter or something alike. I will pull the codes tomorrow.
If your car lacks the OBDII port then pulling codes is fine.
A good volt meter can be used to back probe sensors, Honda kept their fuel injection system fairly easy to diagnose with common tools.
You need to verify oil level, oil pressure, and the sensor(just a pressure switch) works normally. This would reduce power output as VTEC would no longer engage and also put the engine into a limp mode to prevent damage if oil pressure was not correct.
If the transmission is leaking or low, what could be happening is when you go up a hill/incline or during heavy acceleration the sump pickup could become starved and the transmission simply stops functioning intermittantly. But the engine would most likely rev as the trans would go into a neutral state.
Keep in mind when doing the transmission. Fluid replacment is not like the engine, there is a lot of fluid still in the torque convertor so although you might grab two gallon of fluid, you will want to drain and measure how much comes out, and replace with that amount, then check the level to see where you are. To fully change the transmission fluid will take probably 3 changes done over a period of time, each time getting more fresh fluid. I bring it up because I have often seen people overfill not realizing they have not fully drained it and the tranny acting weird or even blowing a seal from overfill.
If your car doesn't have the US style 17 alpha-numeric digit then it doesn't have a 'VIN' but it may still have a Serial number on a plate riveted underhood such as
E-CB1
CB1 1301234
F20A 1095678
If that is the case, then the 'CB1' will designate what chassis your car is.
Honda also made variants of the Accord and Civic and sometimes the names get thrown around in different markets, there was the Ascot, Ascot Innova, Rafaga, and Torneo which are slightly different variations of Accords/Legends. So you might have something like that, plus your year range may not be the same as other nations. Or it may be a Civic variant. If you know your engine size that would help narrow down what your version of Accord is, or simply uploading a picture of it.
There are adapters and they are region specific.
If your car lacks the OBDII port then pulling codes is fine.
A good volt meter can be used to back probe sensors, Honda kept their fuel injection system fairly easy to diagnose with common tools.
If your oil level is low and your engine is a VTEC variant, some models had a pressure sensor that would prevent VTEC engagement if oil pressure was low. A faulty sensor could also cause this.
You need to verify oil level, oil pressure, and the sensor(just a pressure switch) works normally. This would reduce power output as VTEC would no longer engage and also put the engine into a limp mode to prevent damage if oil pressure was not correct.
If the transmission is leaking or low, what could be happening is when you go up a hill/incline or during heavy acceleration the sump pickup could become starved and the transmission simply stops functioning intermittantly. But the engine would most likely rev as the trans would go into a neutral state.
E-CB1
CB1 1301234
F20A 1095678
If that is the case, then the 'CB1' will designate what chassis your car is.
Honda also made variants of the Accord and Civic and sometimes the names get thrown around in different markets, there was the Ascot, Ascot Innova, Rafaga, and Torneo which are slightly different variations of Accords/Legends. So you might have something like that, plus your year range may not be the same as other nations. Or it may be a Civic variant. If you know your engine size that would help narrow down what your version of Accord is, or simply uploading a picture of it.
There are adapters and they are region specific.
If your car lacks the OBDII port then pulling codes is fine.
A good volt meter can be used to back probe sensors, Honda kept their fuel injection system fairly easy to diagnose with common tools.
If your oil level is low and your engine is a VTEC variant, some models had a pressure sensor that would prevent VTEC engagement if oil pressure was low. A faulty sensor could also cause this.
You need to verify oil level, oil pressure, and the sensor(just a pressure switch) works normally. This would reduce power output as VTEC would no longer engage and also put the engine into a limp mode to prevent damage if oil pressure was not correct.
If the transmission is leaking or low, what could be happening is when you go up a hill/incline or during heavy acceleration the sump pickup could become starved and the transmission simply stops functioning intermittantly. But the engine would most likely rev as the trans would go into a neutral state.
I saw some videos about how pulling codes work, this doesnt have OBD2 so I need to jump the pins with a paper clip.
Today I removed the battery holder and I notice that the transmission is an oily mess, Its gonna need to be removed and resealed; I have spark plugs and the valve cover gaskets on the way since that one was leaking a lot and could be the cause of all the problems but now I also need some rtv or a gasket to seal the trans; I also checked the transmission dipstick and its not marking low but the fluid is pretty black also for some reason the dipstick read fill with dextron but these transmissions should use the honda fluid.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thomas Hall
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
11
Jun 17, 2020 03:40 AM
d16y8EL
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
3
Jan 6, 2004 08:30 AM





