93 del sol blowing head gaskets
My Del sol keeps blowing head gaskets. When my friend changed the head gasket I noticed he put sealer on the gasket but not completely around every hole. Could this be causing it to blow? What is the procedure for applying sealer to the head gasket? Do you do both sides. Does it need sealer? Any help would be appreciated. Thank
My Del sol keeps blowing head gaskets. When my friend changed the head gasket I noticed he put sealer on the gasket but not completely around every hole. Could this be causing it to blow? What is the procedure for applying sealer to the head gasket? Do you do both sides. Does it need sealer? Any help would be appreciated. Thank
No don't use it its not the proper way to fix it.
You need to remove the head and have it at the very least re surfaced! as well as the bottom block, both surfaces will warp from the heat when the engine over heats and blows the head gasket, this is why you need to have both surfaces of the head and block checked to see if they are true and straight, if not they need to be milled! you can get away with not resurfacing the bottom block if its not warped too bad but at least check it with a straight edge because if you have over heated multiple times chances are the bottom block surface is warped and needs to be milled/ re surfaced. You need to have the head removed and rebuilt at a machine shop, they will replace the seals hot tank the head and resurface the head.
Then you use a brand new OEM head gasket! don't cheap out and buy felpro ect.. buy a genuine Honda head gasket! also order new head bolts because the old original head bolts are no good any more and you will not get the correct torque because the bolts stretch when removed kind of like a one time use thing! just use new bolts. ARP head studs will be over kill but will be better than the OEM bolts.
Torque the head to spec in the proper 3 step process.
You need to remove the head and have it at the very least re surfaced! as well as the bottom block, both surfaces will warp from the heat when the engine over heats and blows the head gasket, this is why you need to have both surfaces of the head and block checked to see if they are true and straight, if not they need to be milled! you can get away with not resurfacing the bottom block if its not warped too bad but at least check it with a straight edge because if you have over heated multiple times chances are the bottom block surface is warped and needs to be milled/ re surfaced. You need to have the head removed and rebuilt at a machine shop, they will replace the seals hot tank the head and resurface the head.
Then you use a brand new OEM head gasket! don't cheap out and buy felpro ect.. buy a genuine Honda head gasket! also order new head bolts because the old original head bolts are no good any more and you will not get the correct torque because the bolts stretch when removed kind of like a one time use thing! just use new bolts. ARP head studs will be over kill but will be better than the OEM bolts.
Torque the head to spec in the proper 3 step process.
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But, don't take my word for it, check the factory service manual to be sure. I'm just a stranger on the internet.
Use a new Cometic or Honda gasket. Copper spray is okay, but never use Hondabond or other silicone or RTV sealant on a head gasket.
The head bolts are steel, threaded into aluminum; they are not tightened to anywhere near their elastic limit. If you overtorque one, you will wipe the threads from the block before you will permanently deform the head bolt. ARP head studs are overkill for aluminum blocks.
The head bolts are steel, threaded into aluminum; they are not tightened to anywhere near their elastic limit. If you overtorque one, you will wipe the threads from the block before you will permanently deform the head bolt. ARP head studs are overkill for aluminum blocks.
as a general rule, Honda engines do not use torque-to-yield head bolts (the kind that require replacement after one use). Reuse for unmodified (OE cylinder pressures/power) engines is accepted practice. it is required to thoroughly clean the threads of the bolts as well as in the block and apply new, clean engine oil before reinstalling according to the procedure outlined in the service manual. dirty threads (or damaged threads) will throw off the "reading" on your torque wrench preventing proper clamping loads. If it squeaks or creaks when torquing, it's not clean enough.
But, don't take my word for it, check the factory service manual to be sure. I'm just a stranger on the internet.
But, don't take my word for it, check the factory service manual to be sure. I'm just a stranger on the internet.
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allmotorb20vtec
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Aug 5, 2004 06:56 PM












