My 1990 Accord Starts right up... runs like a champ for a few minutes... then abruptly Dies, it shuts off like as if I turned the it off and have to let it sit for about 10-20 minutes before it will start again and do the same thing. I have changed the fuel pump, gas filter, spark plugs and wires .... my accord only had 89,000 original miles on it I bought it a few months ago for $400 and I really want to drive this car... HELP PLEASE

 

Are you able to get any codes from the car?

https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...Trouble-Codes-

this might give a clue. Otherwise just guesses really.

 

So it always dies after about 20mins?
If so that may be a heat soak related issue.
I would verify that the ignition switch and main relay are both in good working order.
If you have lots of keys or charms, or heavy items, on you key ring this can pull on the switch and cause it to make/break a contact.
When the engine dies does the tach instantly drop to 0 or does it follow the sound of the engine reducing rpms?
If when you try to start the engine when it won't start and the tach does not respond at all then it is most likely that there is an issue with the ignition control module, or crank/ignition pickups inside the distributor.
Also verify that the wiring harness and connectors to the wiring harness are clean, tight and undamaged.
May also want to check basics.
Verify battery is fully charged, 12.4-12.6V
Verify battery connections/cables are clean and tight.
Verify main grounds are clean and tight, G1 Battery to body ground, G2 engine mount/valve cover ground, G101, located on the thermostat housing.
Verify with engine running voltage is 13V or better.

 

Thank you .... it will run 3 to 5 minutes

 

That seems more like a heat soak/faulty ignition component issue.
Verify all normal warning lamps work when turning ignition to II(ON). CEL, D4(automatic), OIL, Seatbelt, etc.
Verify any stored codes.
Jumper two wire blue connector by kick panel.
Turn ignition switch to II(ON)
Watch the warning lamps(CEL/D4) for any blinking. Long blinks are counts of 10s(_ _ _ = 30), short blinks are counts of 1's(--- = 3).
Codes will count up from smallest to largest number.

If it is a heat soak/faulty ignition problem, it does not always store a code.
If the engine shutting off is consistent, and the temp gauge is not overheating, watch the tachometer. If you note it dipping or dropping while the engine is still running relatively normal then it is most likely an ignition issue which could be the ICM or the internal sensors of the distributor itself. Often times it is cheaper to replace the distributor as a whole when it has been determined that there is a fault with the distributor.