So I plan to keep the catch can setup on my motor simple. No valve cover bungs and I'm still up in the air about a drain back or not.

Then plan is a basic catch can mounted high as possible on the firewall.



Then I was going to run it as a "drain back" but have the block plugged and the hose from the bottom of the catch can to the bottom of the frame and have it capped. Theory was when I changed the oil I would drain the can.

With that being said I got to looking back at Shodan's setup here https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...vents-3335314/ and it seems this might be a better option.

Goals:

• Vent the block enough to keep the motor happy
• Have no milkshake sludge get into the oil pan from condensation (big deal to me)

My questions are with the one way check valve, that still has to let it be an open system so that means condensation will still get into the can making it a milkshake, correct? Other than having to check your oil level more often, is there a point in draining it back into the block? Plus with the one way check valve it should limit the amount of oil in the can period, correct?

 

You are under the impression condensation only happens in a catch can? Just drain the oil back

https://shop.boostinperformance.com/...t1-gtr-aos.htm

look at this “catch can” theres a lot of thought put into this and guess where the oil drains... the motors its designed for also make about 4 times the power you are probably aiming for

 

the check valve's purpose is to keep crankcase pressure and ventilation going in One Direction, not to control the amount of oil that goes into the actual can.

as long as that check valve is pointing in the correct direction as shown in the sticky, there should not be any milkshake style issues. When using a quality oil, the amount of condensation that drains back into the crankcase will have little effect to the dilution of oil that is within the system. Again, that's if you're using a very zinc content quality oil.

 

I strictly use Rotella T6

 

That should suffice. 15w-40?

 

5W-40

 

hmm. I need to recheck the zinc content in that weight. The Rotella tends to run a little thin on turbo components on that weight..

 

That's what I run now. So you're suggesting 15W-40 when the turbo goes on?

 

I'm suggesting to check for something a bit more robust. I'll be checking my resources.

 

How about Mobile 1 synthetic, I been reading it's pretty good compared to the Rotella, and has decent zinc content.

 

No..Not even close. I'd never use that oil ever again. try the Valvoline VR1

 

I'll give that a try on my next oil change. Running the Shell T6 currently. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

I'm going to stick to Rotella until I see proof there is another that is better and can be bought at a local store.

 

What is the cost to have oil analysis by Blackstone labs I think it's called. That would be helpful to really know what is going on, I don't think it's too costly.

 

thats used for oil issues, not sending purchased oil.

Stopsign32v: you're not going to find high ZDDP content oils in stores anymore due to new oil regulations for vehicle use. The only othees iv've used with success are Castrol GTX SYNTH and Pennzoil platinum SYNTH.

 

Valvoline VR-1?

 

I just add a bottle of zync to each oil change

 

I've read that isn't a good idea.

 

Perfectly fine to use and highly recommended...Stopsgn32v wanted "off the shelf" brands. Valvoline VR-1 has always been special order, and not just sitting in Walmart shelves

 

They have it at O'Reilly's and Advance Auto in my area. Depending on his location, they may not sell it. We have no emissions testing or anything out my way.

 

year 2 and every part in my motor looks brand new still. I had my Pro1 cams out last week
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rislone-3...xoC-_4QAvD_BwE

 

I couldn't find VR1 synthetic on the shelf. I think I did see VR1 conventional though. I just order a case of 6 (VR1 synthetic) through Amazon. Buy 6, use 4, then there are 2 more quarts on your shelf in case you need to top off.

 

Oh I see, thanks for the clarification. Learn something new everyday.

 

That's how most of us get it

 

Agreed on the Mobil 1. I recently did an oil change using that and the engine sounds a bit off, not as healthy and smooth like before. Will definitely go back to using Pennzoil Full Synthetic. Hell, it's cheaper too.