I have a 2000 Ex 5 speed, and I was getting crazy noise from what I was told was my Input shaft bearing. So I bought a new bearing and while I was at it a stage 2 clutch kit with a new pressure plate, disk, Throw out, and pilot bearing. I replaced the ISB and put in the new plate and disk the pilot was fine so i didnt bother. When the car is off I can shift threw all the gears but when its running I cant get into any gear. I can start the car in gear to get moving and once im moving I can kind of shift if im at a good rpm and I have to rev match to down shift but it wont down shift into first no matter what. Iv checked the clutch fluid and iv bled the clutch noting helped. Clutch grabs great almost as soon as my foot lifts it takes off. also it starts to bog and and idle funny when warm but my battery was off for a week so i think the ecu is still relearning.

 

hopefully you used an alignment tool to set the clutch disk during the installation

 

I did

 

You might have missed your ball seat with your hydraulic throw out piston.

I usually have to push mine back in before setting it into place inside the boot.

You could have also missed the fork on the post when putting it into the throw out bearing.

If any part of that area isn't done right, it could prevent the plate from disengaging which in turn would fail to disengage the clutch disk.

 

I checked to see if piston was in place on the fork and it is, is there a chance I might of did something to the slave cylinder? I was having a pretty hard time getting it back in place and had to shove the piston back in to get it on the fork. As for the throw out I'm pretty sure it was good but might of got bumped out of place while mating the trans. Looks like I'll be dropping the trans to double check everything.

 

You didn't install the clutch disc backwards, did you?

 

This is my guess. If you're sure you're able to move the release bearing and that the fork is seated properly on the ball then there's no other possibility. Unless you somehow got the shift linkage twisted.

 

Immediate thought as soon as I read the original post.

 

I believe I put it in right it didn't have markings but the old disk had markings so I copied it i believe. I think I'm gonna just drop the trans and double check everything

 

Everybody else quoted it, so I figured I might as well.

 

And I double quoted you. :D

I honestly didn't think you could put the pressure plate on completely if the clutch disc was backwards. I've always noted the center hub on the disc sticks out really far on one side and only a little on the other. As such can only go in one way and not touch anything other than friction areas, or so I thought.....

 

Well I dropped the trans and took off the pressure plate and the disk was facing the right way, I don't believe the pressure plate would bolt up at all if it was backwards. The throw out and fork were all fine as well. So for experiment purposes I cleaned up the stock clutch and plate and put it back on, but after 4 hours of killing my arms I can't get the trans to mate back up to the engine.

 

And this is why I use my engine hoist to lift the tranny. Then I can finagle the tranny in to place with less suffering especially since I usually am doing everything solo on my car.

 

I can get it up and start a couple bolts but it tightens on top and front side but the back side and bottom are still 2 inches away. And the dowel pins don't make it. Should I be able to get the dowel pins in their holes by hand before I tighten any bolts? I didn't have this issue the first time I put the trans back together.

 

I just loaded a trans last night. I cheated and used a trans jack because I'm old (smarter?) now. You should be able to get it set down to the dowel pins, maybe 1/2" away and be able to start most, if not all, of the bolts and thread them in most of the way by hand. Otherwise there's a high probability you're not lined up well somewhere. Use the two bottom bolts (The ones that come in from the engine, one low on the front of the block and one in the rear near the T-bracket) to pull it in the last 1/2" once you're positive it's lined up well. The other bolts will pull unevenly and try to pull **** the trans if you use them.

 

You can't get it on completely as I remember. But damned if I didn't stand there one time long enough to smoke a cigarette and watch a guy try his hardest until I pointed it out.

 

I was reading this on my phone and just about spit coffee all over it, it made me laugh so hard.

Shared it with my wife and even she cracked up picturing it.

 

I think you're confusing ISB with throwout bearing, it doesn't seem like you replaced the ISB.

 

I did both. I took the case apart pulled the synchro stacks out and replaced the ISB.

 

Was all of this done at once or did you do the ISB test, all was well then do the clutch and now won't shift? Or did you do both internal and external and now it won't shift?

 

I did both and now won't shift. I can run through all the gears with the car not running. And I can power shift/rev match even 5th and reverse. I did pull the trans to check the TOB and to see if the clutch dusk was backwards. It wasn't so I cleaned up and reinstalled the old clutch but im having real troubles mating the trans back to the engine to re-test it.

 

I don't believe it's clutch related. I think something went awry when you opened up the case to do the ISB.

I believe you are going to have to elaborate a lot more on exactly what you did inside the tranny. I think you are going to have to pop it open again. So it's good you can't mate it up as it's telling you something is wrong inside.

 

I researched and found a really good video of a Canadian guys rebuilding one of these trans followed everything double checked the stuff everyone said to look out for even did the concrete trick for the snap ring. And I could shift through all the gears and the first time I mated the trans with the new clutch it went in real easy i did it solo. I'm going to make sure the alignment tool still goes in easy and check the splines and maybe give it another shot with a buddy turning the crank gear a bit. This MA weather is holding me up though.
Edit: I didn't do a rebuild just pulled the stacks and replaced the ISB. And when I took the car out for a drive power shifting the initial problem noise was gone so that's a plus. Might just find a cheap used trans at this point.

 

If it works clutch-less shifting then it's definitely clutch related.

 

One of the reasons I use my hoist to hold the transmission (or others use a tranny jack) is so you can slightly turn the crank when it doesn't feed in. You could be hitting spine to spline and something needs to rotate a touch for it to hit spline to valley.