I have a 1996 honda accord and I am having a fuel power issue. Fuel pump is not getting power. Replaced fuel pump, all related fuses, and main relay. I am getting all proper voltage on main relay except for fuel pump. Any ideas on what else it could possibly be?

 

Is there voltage on Terminal No 4 on the Main relay?
If not did you check Terminal no 5 on the Main relay for power in with key turned to II(ON).
Are you seeing battery voltage or less?
Is there anything else not functioning? Gauges, lights, warning lamps, etc?
Could also be a bad ground G101 on the intake manifold. On the end of the plenum under the boost chamber is where G101 attaches.

 

All prongs in relay are pushing proper power except for fuel pump. I put a new fuel pump in it and it started right up I drove it home and tried to start next day and it hasn't started yet

 

If you are getting voltage at the Main Relay, then you will need to verify power at the pump itself.
If there was some corrosion at the connector it is possible that the pin broke, or the pin backed out of the connector.

 

I'm not getting voltage at the main relay to the fuel pump it stops there. The relay isn't activating the circuit to kick the fuel pump on

 

If you are not getting power out on terminal 4, verify you are getting power in on terminal 5.
If there is no power going into the Main Relay, then it is not a MR or FP issue but more likely a bad connection, ignition switch, or possible an ECU issue.



Get your volt meter out and verify where you actually have power.

 

Ok I will look into it here in a few and recheck everything

 

My main relay doesn't match the numbers in the picture you sent

 

I am getting all correct power to relay except .05v to fuel pump

 

Got the fuel pump to come on yesterday and start but today it wont getting 12v to battery prong on relay with key off but only get .05v or less to fuel pump at the relay and at the pump

 

Replace fuel pump relay?

You might be able to fix the relay be reoldering the connections.

 

Main relay is fine like I stated it ran yesterday but now it won't

 

Diagram is the same amongst 90's Hondas.
If you are not getting battery voltage for the fuel pump, then there may be an issue with the ECM, or the contacts in the ignition switch are worn out.
If you have lots of keys/charms on your key ring, remove the car key and only have that in the ignition.
When turning the ignition to II(ON) start jiggling the key if you don't hear the main relay click on, or if you don't hear the pump kick on.
A high resistance or worn contact may be not allowing enough voltage from terminal #2 for the coil to close the fuel pump relay which would allow power from # 5 to #4.

When discussing diagnostics further, please state where exactly you are measuring voltage from.
Where exactly are you measuring?
At the main relay? If so, what terminal?
At the fuel pump? If so which terminal?
etc etc.
Be more specific, I don't have the car in front of me. You do.

When the key is initially to II(ON) the ECM will turn the second relay on for a couple of seconds to prime the pump(when teh CEL lamp turns on for a moment and then turns off you should hear the pump prime). If the ECM is not priming the pump then there is something else going on. Either a bad connection at the ECM(check pin A7 for battery voltage for the first two seconds).

You should have continuity through terminals #4 an #5, if you apply battery voltage to terminal #2 and ground terminal #1.
If you do, then it is most likely not the relay that is at fault, but a wiring/connector or ignition switch issue.

 

Ok first thing I checked was ground to battery #7 on main relay with key off. I am getting 12v there on the volt meter. I checked all other terminals on main relay to ground and it shows no volts with key off which I figure Is correct. Next I turn key on and I check again ground to battery #7 and still 12v. Then I check ground to ignition #5 on main relay with key on and I have 12v. Next with key on I check both ECU's #1 and #6 and both get 12v. Then with key on I check ground to st switch #2 and I have no volts but I assume that should go to 12v when cranking the engine. It's hard to try and check that because it's a manual. Next I check with key off ground to fuel pump #4 and read 0v I turn the key on and it reads .05v then tapers off to 0v. I then go to fuel pump itself and pull the plug and check ground to plug and when turn key on I get .05v and then tapers off to 0v. Remember I couldn't the car to start for over a week at all then the other day I was messing with it and out of no where the fuel pump kicks on while turning on key like it should and it started right up. For the next hour it continued to start repeatedly but idled terrible for a few seconds then balanced out. I decided may need a fuel filter. Next day go out to start it and I am back to not starting. Put battery on charger just incase and still nothing.

 

Also I can hear and feel the main relay click on and off when turning key on and off

 

Are you getting any codes when you jump the blue connector under the glove box? A failing ecu can prevent the fuel pump from being consistantly engaged. Also have you checked the ecu itself? (Under passenger footwell carpet up against the firewall) Sometimes if you open it and smell rotten fish, it means the capacitors inside have died and the ECU is not performing as exptected. I had a 1994 where the car would sometimes turn over and in the end it was some bad capps on the board.

 

I haven't done anything with the ecu yet that was next until I got it started then went right back to trying to figure out why the fuel pump failed to kick back on after 10-15 times of the car starting

 

So it started right up today about 10 times. I let it sit for about 20 minutes and now wont start again

 

id put money on it the there are failed wlectrolytic capacitors in the ecu

 

So I may need a new ecu I will have to find one to try out before I buy one

 

I took the ecu out and gave it a look over but didn't see anything bad. When I plugged the ecu back in the car started

 

Did you actually open the ecu (It's 5 screws and hurts nothing to open it) or just pull it, see nothing on the case and put it back and car repeated it's pattern of start no start

 

I removed the screws on both sides of the ecu casing and looked the whole board over. Which contact point on the ecu is for the fuel pump and main relay. When I plugged the ecu back in the car started over and over and I drove it but when I let it sit not running for a little bit it wouldn't start back up

 

Alright so got the new fuel filter put on and for the record what the heck was honda thinking putting it there. Anyways it started right up didn't sound sick anymore. I'm gonna let it sit over night and see if she still starts in the morning.