Hey all, recently I took on a project and now I’m stumped. This EK was originally auto and I swapped out the cabin harness to manual along with the motor. Initially on first attempt I did a quick key turn and the motor cranked. Afterwards the motor would not cranked no fuel pump prime. Only the brake light comes on for the dash and the radio and headlights and everything else works fine but no crank or prime. The car sat for 3 month. Afterwards I randomly tried starting the car again and it started cranking but no start and I noticed one of the ECU plugs was not in so I plugged it in but now it’s back to no crank no prime. I know the car should crank without an ECU but I’m stump. I’ve checked all the grounds especially the thermostat and they all show 12V. My ignition switch power on light test passes. If I jump 5 and 7 on the main relay I hear the fuel pump prime. Also I tried jumping the starter with a big screw driver and it doesn’t jump.. if I hold the screw driver on the starter the radiator fan kicks on. Besides taking the whole dash back out and checking the wires what else can be the issue?

 

When the engine won't start and the pump won't prime, does the CEL remain on steady with key in ON(II)?

Clean and tighten: battery connectors, G1 battery ground on chassis, G3 ground on both transmission and chassis, and G101 thermostat ground.

Also do this test:
Attach wire to + battery post.
Unplug starter solenoid connector.
Touch wire to starter solenoid pin. Does starter now crank?

 

The CEL does not come on at all when it does not prime or crank. Ironically it did come on when I first attempted and it cranked but now only the brake light comes on.

Clean and tighten: battery connectors, G1 battery ground on chassis, G3 ground on both transmission and chassis, and G101 thermostat ground.

When I attached a wire directly from positive terminal to solenoid nothing happens and the radiator fan comes on.

forgot to mention I repainted the bay. But the layer is not thick and there’s no additional clear. But I’m stump why sometimes it primes and crank and sometimes it doesn’t. The main relay actually clicks rapidly now and stops after a couple seconds.

 

Also the battery is new and I have tried multiple used main relays including one that I know works. The original random works with the clicking now and another buzzes really quietly.

 

This^ is the problem.

AutoZone has a free rental of this tool:
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...set/391372_0_0

Use it to clean all engine bay ground bolts and ground bolt holes, especially the G1 battery ground on chassis, G3 ground on both transmission and chassis, and G101 thermostat ground.

 

Even if I’ve tested all ground bolts and they read 12V?

 

Also, how come the starter doesn’t crank when I jump connect a wire directly to the solenoid? had it tested at autozone and they it passed.

 

Poor ground connections due to paint.

 

Details?

 

I have tested all ground cables and they read 12V. Transmission, Battery, Valve cover, thermostat and a 5th can’t remember off top of my head at auto zone now.

 

What I meant is for you to describe how you did the ground tests, in detail.

 

batter voltage at 12.4v
red terminal of multimeter to positive end of battery and negative terminal of multimeter to G101,G1 and g2 all read 12.4v


I also just rethreaded the bolts with the threader from AZ

 

Poor^ method to test ground connections because the multimeter voltage reading requires only a tiny amount of current flow.

Clean the ground bolts and ground bolt holes (G1, G3, G101).

 

Update after removing and rethreading and putting the ground bolts back on, all proper lights come on and the fuel pump primes. I attempted to crank and nothing. Removed key, put back in and now, brake light only again...

 

Did you rethread the bolt holes too?

Repeat this test:
Attach wire to + battery post.
Unplug starter solenoid connector.
Touch wire to starter solenoid pin. Does starter now crank?

Also check starter cable connections at the hood fuse box and starter motor.

 

List all electrical functions that do NOT work.

 

the bolts use m8 1.0 nut to thread but there is no m8 1.0 threader for the holes and none of the pieces here fit the hole or it would strip.

starter still did not crank on jumping wire

i hear the starter relay click in the fuse box when jumping

 

Looks like this kit has m8x1.0. Buy and return when done.

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbon...-pc-62832.html

 

Had to run around to a few HF they didn’t have any in stock. Actually needed M6 1.0 to thread the holes. After rethreading G101,1, and 2 I tried jumping the starter and it was a big spark multiple times but I did not hear the starter kick. I plugged the solenoid back in and turned the key but same brake light only and no crank or prime. The main relay clocked a few times and nothing. Unplugged main relay and replugged then turned key and no clicks nothing.

All electrical functions work except when I turn the key no CEL or oil pressure light only those few times it actually primed and crank. Also the tried jumping the starter one last time and no spark which was how it originally was when I was trying.

 

Check whether 7.5A dash fuse 25 is blown. Or just replace the fuse.

 

Fuse 25 ignition coil? 7.5 amp not blown light tester shows good. Switched it with another 7.5 light test shows good. On turn key no prime no crank.

 

This^ is protected by 15A dash fuse 9.

You need to get the CEL working. Replace 7.5A dash fuse 25 and then go from there.

 

Im actually looking at a diagram from a ‘00 auto civic parked right next to me. It says fuse 25 is Meter and 9 is ignition coil. Both fuses light up on ign 2 when key is turned. I replaced both and still no prime no crank. The main relay is also making funny clicks.. sound out the word “ticket” and say it three times really quickly.. that’s what it’s doing. I used the main relay from the other civic which runs no problem and it actually doesn’t work in my civic.. just buzzes .

 

Does fuse 25 light up when tested from both test tabs or only from one of the test tabs?

 

both tabs light up.

Also the replacement main relay is now faintly clicks non stop if I have the key on ignition 2 until I remove the key.. odd