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Hi guys. I’ve owned many Honda’s but this is my first turboed Honda. So it has 10.2 compression ratio and turboed on 8-10psi. So i have a few questions. So one I’ll start with the most concerning one, so it has a Aem A/F gauge, and once is start it and it runs and warms up it’s, running between 13.2 and 14.8 if I’m just steady cruising it’s in the 15,16,18 and jumps all around between those and some times pegs out to the ———three lines. But when i really get on it and it hits boost it’s in the 10.8-11.8 range and then tapers back off. It’s got a random miss. And when i was cruising home it’s a b16a trans so when we were doing 75 and even if i moved the gas pedal slightly it would go from like 13s to to 15-16s. Anyone have any ideas what’s going going on or could be the cause of the issue??
If its not tuned, you can start there. Get it tuned or blow your car up.
it is tuned. I don’t drive it as it as I’m worried of that. But i am just curious if there is something making it run this way. But I’m going to buy hondata s300 v3 and going from there. It is on chrome right now. I want to just make sure there isn’t something wrong with the car first. I’m going to do just basic maintenance things such as fuel filter as it has the stock filter on the car, I’m also going to do plugs and i have a set of ngk wires. Another question of mine is when i do plugs what should i gap them to being that it’s got cp 10.1 cr pistons? Does that require a colder gap the. .028? Or .030?
All depends on how the car was set when you tuned it, or when IT was tuned. So you are going to want to pull the current plugs and order according to what you are currently running. Have you changed or upgraded anything after the tune?. Start with the plugs, check fuel pressure, check timing, check coolant and oil levels.
At least on my N/A car, the AFR gauge would only go --- when I'm off the throttle and it basically turns the injectors off. So if you are seeing --- when your driving, I would first check the plugs and maybe even check the injectors. Let us know what you find....
All depends on how the car was set when you tuned it, or when IT was tuned. So you are going to want to pull the current plugs and order according to what you are currently running. Have you changed or upgraded anything after the tune?. Start with the plugs, check fuel pressure, check timing, check coolant and oil levels.
At least on my N/A car, the AFR gauge would only go --- when I'm off the throttle and it basically turns the injectors off. So if you are seeing --- when your driving, I would first check the plugs and maybe even check the injectors. Let us know what you find....
I appreciate all the info man. I will try to see if i can find out the issue before i go hondata. If so i will definitely let you guys know. And if i can’t figure out the issue before the tuning process i will talk with my tuner to figure out the issue. I also wouldn’t mind anyone else’s opinions as well.
[QUOTE=JRCivic1;52131487]It certainly sounds tune related. Changing the fuel filter, plugs and plug wires can't hurt. Do that, add the s300 and get to the tuner.[/QUOTE
All depends on how the car was set when you tuned it, or when IT was tuned. So you are going to want to pull the current plugs and order according to what you are currently running. Have you changed or upgraded anything after the tune?. Start with the plugs, check fuel pressure, check timing, check coolant and oil levels.
At least on my N/A car, the AFR gauge would only go --- when I'm off the throttle and it basically turns the injectors off. So if you are seeing --- when your
driving, I would first check the plugs and maybe even check the injectors. Let us know what you find....
Originally Posted by JRCivic1
It certainly sounds tune related. Changing the fuel filter, plugs and plug wires can't hurt. Do that, add the s300 and get to the tuner.
So I did a little bit of digging this morning just got back from work to late last night but i popped the hood and seen a crack in the bumper exit exhaust... could that be the cause? Just in the sense that it’s not being able to read all of the exhaust truly?
I feel like that wont really affect the drive-ability side of things because that is exhaust gases leaving the motor (plus or minus back-pressure change). As for your gauge reading weird number, I guess that crack can cause it...
I feel like that wont really affect the drive-ability side of things because that is exhaust gases leaving the motor (plus or minus back-pressure change). As for your gauge reading weird number, I guess that crack can cause it...
It doesn’t really have a drive ability issue i mean It does lunge when you press the throttle, but not sure if it’s just the throttle cable or maybe clutch. But could be tune related as well i guess
I feel like that wont really affect the drive-ability side of things because that is exhaust gases leaving the motor (plus or minus back-pressure change). As for your gauge reading weird number, I guess that crack can cause it...
another question does anyone know if a cable trans can use a hydro clutch kit??
A '92-93 Cable transmission uses the same disc and pressure plate... but the release bearing would be different. '90-91 USDM Cable transmissions and ALL JDM Cable transmissions have a smaller splined input shaft and thus would use a different disc as well.
A '92-93 Cable transmission uses the same disc and pressure plate... but the release bearing would be different. '90-91 USDM Cable transmissions and ALL JDM Cable transmissions have a smaller splined input shaft and thus would use a different disc as well.
thank you sir. Is it possible to take my b16 gears out of the cable trans and put it in a hydro case? And make it a hydro? And how do I tell what year cable trans it is? How many splines are on the 90-91 vs 92+ and it’s a b16a so it’s jdm
If you have a JDM B16A transmission, I do not believe that you can move the shafts into a hydro case. As stated above, ALL JDM cable transmissions are small splined input shafts.
The YS1 cable trans shares the hydro internals. S1 and those others do not. I've swapped them around in the past.
A YS1 cable transmission is from a '92-93 USDM Integra.
Originally Posted by BuiltB16Ej2
how do I verify which one I have? I have no markings in my trans
You said that you have a JDM cable transmission... NONE of these would be a YS1. Internally, ALL are like the USDM '90-91 Integra cable transmissions... just different gear ratios.
A YS1 cable transmission is from a '92-93 USDM Integra.
You said that you have a JDM cable transmission... NONE of these would be a YS1. Internally, ALL are like the USDM '90-91 Integra cable transmissions... just different gear ratios.
well I’m not 100% it’s a jdm cable transmission, I know it’s b16. I’m just trying to see how I’d tell what trans it is if I don’t have any markings on the trans?
well I’m not 100% it’s a jdm cable transmission, I know it’s b16. I’m just trying to see how I’d tell what trans it is if I don’t have any markings on the trans?
There is no B16 cable transmission from the USDM market. The way to tell is to remove it and try sliding a '90 Integra clutch disc over the input shaft... if it works, you cannot move the internals to a hydro case. Another way would be to remove the snap ring cover bolt at the end of the transmission case and look down at the countershaft snap ring. If the groove that the snap ring fits into is very close to the top of the countershaft bearing, then it is the right style shaft for moving into a hydro case. If it is more like about 1/2" down on the bearing, it is the wrong style shaft and cannot be used in a hydro case.
10.1cr b16a turboed
