So a few months back I bought a 1994 Honda Accord Ex. After about a month I replaced the master and slave cylinder for my clutch. About a week later I replaced my clutch disc with a stage 2. Ran great for about a month then things got weird... my tires began to wear oddly and a vibration became noticable in the rear of the car. On to present day the vibration is much worse. Does anyone know what could be causing it?? I've checked to see if my tires are rubbing but couldn't find any spots.

Please feel free to comment or ask questions and I'll get back to them asap. Thanks for the help

 

I would first think if you are getting uneven wear that the suspension has completely worn out in that area. In the back area, I would think that would be the trailing arms/ upper and lower control arms in the rear. You could have dead shocks but I don't think that would cause a vibration, just crappy bounces over bumps and big leans when turning.

Get under and take some time back there to look, but I wouldn't be surprised for the age of the vehicle it needed it. And...I think very few people who normally own these cars do this kind of work on their car. Shocks yes, but control arms...not likely. If that does fix it, I would also consider replacing the front control arms also as they are just as worn out, most likely.

Here's what I was thinking to check first:
Image result for 1999 honda accord rear suspension

 

If it was me, I'd probably just replace a whole series of things if it looked bad. sway bar links, bushings, shocks and struts, control arms, etc. But I think you can see the arms/links connecting to the wheel could be the issue here.

 

Thank you, I'll take a good look as soon as I can. If it helps at all my steering rack and pinion is pretty worn out. It's odd though because when I turn left at a certain point all the vibrations and whatnot stop. When I turn right they continue

 

I would guess the vibration stops because now all the loading force has tightened against something. Of, not telling you what to do, but just sharing experience. When I get an older car like this, among the first things I do is swap out the suspension so I know it's all good. Front and rear control arms, new shocks, tie rod ends, etc. This often fixes most of the weird driving sensations such as dead spots in steering, bounces, creaks, tire wear, etc. Not something everyone can or wants to do, especially right away, but each month even if I can replace another set of pieces, it just makes the car feel like a new car again.
I hope that steering rack can last a bit, those are a pain to swap out and replace. To me, much harder than things like shocks and control arms and rear bushings. Have you tried at least replacing the fluid in the steering (power steering fluid)? I found that also made a difference in several of the cars I have picked up over the years since that stuff never seems to get changed either. People change oil, but forget power steering, brake fluid, transmission fluid, and radiator fluid. I'm lazy so for the steering, I use a turkey baster and suck out whatever I can from the power steering reservoir, and power new fluid in there, doing this over and over for a week (if I am daily driving it) until it seems pretty clean again. It adds like 5 min to my day to keep replacing until better. But first fix that tire wear!

 

Definitely gonna look into that, thanks again for the help. I'll most likely tear into it next day it's nice out and make sure all is good.

I'll provide pictures and info as I go along. It's my first car and ive never repaired an older honda so this forum will hopefully be a huge help in my build.

 

To replace the clutch you have to remove the transmission, which requires removal of the axles, which requires disconnecting the balljoints and most likely outer tie rods from the uprights as well.
Recheck the work.
Verify the axles are properly installed.
Verify the ball joints were installed correctly.
Verify the outer tie rods are properly connected and adjusted.
Verify the wheel lugh nuts are properly torqued, as well as the stub axle nuts.

To remove the trans you need to open up and take apart a lot of the front suspension.
Recheck the whole front end.

 

You have me thinking about what you've done so far, so I will add that I would check the axles and see if they are clicking or seem loose in play, check the cv boots. Is the tire wear occurring at all four corners or just a specific tire?

 

Thanks for the input everyone. I recently replaced the rear caliper after I thought the ebrake line was hanging up. Turns out one of the sliding bolts on the bracket was not sliding. Its fixed and fine now but a new issue has appeared. My battery light came on the other day and killed my battery before I could get it home. After charging the battery and getting it home I tinkered with some wires and fuses and got it working. The light comes on and I can smell burning plastic but shuts off as soon as I go looking for it.

 

The vibration is in the rear end of my car... theres no transmission back there considering I'm FWD. I appreciate the advice and I did go over the front suspension and axles. They seem to be alright

 

The weird wearing is only in the front right from what I've seen so far. Everything seems solid and where it should be... could it just be cheap tires??

 

Hmmm...that sounds like two different issues.

Front tire would indicate you have a bearing/control arm/spring/shock/tie rod issue. But it's possible it's a tire, just less likely

The vibration from the rear indicates the rear control arm/trailing arm/bushings

I can't think of anything that would cause a front tire weird wear issue and vibration in the back. I think you have two things going on.

If you had said it had been in a car accident I would have said there is frame damage and that could cause a connection between the two, but that's not it in this case. It's most likely two issues going on.

 

I'll look into it but if it helps my steering rack and pinion is basically worn out but not broken. The rubber sleeves on the end are no longer attached too... could it be that?? I'm thinking I need an alignment but have to wait till i get a new steering rack. Thanks again for the info

 

Are you saying the steering rack is worn because the sleeves are torn? Or are they clicking and dried out at the joints? Because you can re-sleeve a the rack and pinion rubber bellows at each end if the joint is still ok. I had one tear and put a new one on without needing a new steering rack. But in any case, if it was bad it wouldn't cause the vibration in the back. A steering rack is a pretty big job to do as well. There is a lot to remove to get it out and get the new one in.

Sounds like you have some work to do to start clearing up the problems. If it were me, I would already be replacing all those control arms and bushings anyway, the car sounds like it needs it regardless. I know it sounds like you might be "throwing parts" at the problem, but in this case you have a lot of worn parts that sound like they need replacing.

Perhaps some pictures of the different areas might provide better feedback or advice.

 

I'll put up some pictures next day its warm out, supposed to be cold where I am the next few days and im waiting on a new alternator in the mean time. Its seen its better days but every looks and works well enough to drive on the highway. My steering rack is worn out for sure but doesnt make any noise when driving or moving the wheel around while stopped. Thanks for letting me know about resleeving it too, didnt really think about that one.

 

This thread is a bit old....but I have a somewhat related question for you....

I have a '94 Accord LX and need to replace the clutch slave cylinder. I was wondering if you got yours from somewhere other than Honda and, if so, what brand and how well has it lasted (now that it's been abt 2 years)?

Thanks and cheers......

 

I've replaced several over the years, using parts from RockAuto, so none of those are OEM. Beck Arnley would be one brand, Centric would be another.
Take a look here for parts, just don't choose from the "daily driver" area.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+cylinder,1836