Hello. I am new here, name is Jeff. I have a 2002 Accord EX V6 3.0 with B7XA, 4spd auto transmission. Needing a little bit of help after a new transmission swap.

Issue #1 : when driving and coming to a stop, at the end of the stop there seems to be what is a noise and grinding felt in the brake pedal along with a light buzzing sound. Also when in park and applying brake pedal there is a clicking sound coming from somewhere near the center console.

Issue #2 : when selecting gear the gear selector seems to be in the correct position, but the indicator is showing different gear (when in d4 it says N, D3 shows D4 etc.....)

Looking for some guidance to getting this resolved as thos is my daily driver. I took it to a shop after purchasing a fully remanned transmission from bestbuytransmission.com with a 5yr 100k warranty

i had it installed at a shop and it has been kind of a nightmare from the beginning. The guy wasnt there to receive the new transmission so i had to go to the shop and pick up, or have to reschedule delivery and face a $200 consignment fee by the trucking company. The guy broke a banjo bolt for one of the trans cooling lines which got replaced...and lastly once he thought he had everything buttoned up and was adding fluid and running it through all the gears he says the left axle popped out while he had it in drive....im assuming he didn't have it fastened to the transmission...i do not know what happened but he said he ultimately had to purchase a new axle to install. He also for some reason wanted to pull the engine in order to do the swap, and left TDC SENSOR 1 UNPLUGGED. And lastly left one of the front engine mount bolts out.

Anyone with ideas how to fix the 2 issues i mentioned above or where to start looking to correct, i would definitely appreciate some help as i am starting to become skeptical of letting this place touch my car anymore after 5 days to do the job and have so much wrong.
thank you in advance

Jeff Swope
Jeffereyswope@gmail.com

 

Sounds like the neutral position sensor aka transmission range sensor is out of adjustment.

 

I believe you can fix the wrong gear problem by getting under the car and locating the shifter cable. What you need to do is unhook the cable (I believe it's 12mm bolts to get the cover off the throttle cable, and then a flat head to pry the strap around the 10mm bolt holding the cable to the transmission linkage). Then, once the cable is unhook, grab the lever the cable was attached to (inside the transmission), and move it all the way towards the front of the car, this should put it in park. Of course, make sure your shifter is in park as well, then re-attach. I think I've see a few people attach that incorrectly, not realizing the lever needs to go one more notch towards the front of the car before attaching the cable.

This might help a bit.

 

Thanks. I messed around with it last night and this actually seems to be the problem. I moved it back and forth while having someone watch the dash in each gear, we git everything to line up, but once i tightened the 2 bolts it webt right back to not being right again. I am ordering a new one. Still trying to figure out the brake/abs issue. The mechanic says he only took the calipers off. We bled the lines and found there was some air, not alot though. Doing this did not fix the issue, but it did make it better as in it doesnt do it every time and its not as bad when it does. Any ideas?

 

OK, if it's good from underneath then I presume that it's the other side now that needs adjusting. I can't say I've done this on an Accord, but I have on other cars. You need to take the shifter covers off and you should see the cable coming in from the transmission. There is usually a nut that lets you do the fine adjustments. I think you detach the cable from the shifter and adjust then put it back on. But, I cannot find a picture to help, I found this which might be similar, but it's an older Accord. Fast forward to 5:35 of the video and you can see what I think is what you have to adjust.

 

Jeff, reagrding your brake grinding sounds, it could be that your caliper pins are seized or starting to seize, causing the brake pads to maintain contact with the rotor. When this is the case, you'll usually see obvious difference in wear between the brake pad in front vs the brake pad behind the rotor. You could even entirely grind away the inner brake pad, while the one on the outside looks normal. The click noise is likely normal: when you press the brake pedal, there is a switch that activates (shift interlock). You usually don't hear this when you are driving due to engine and road noise. Another possibility (unlikely due to the location) is that one of the brake pads is loose.

 

I got it checked out..had a friend run his computer on it while on a drive, the problem is right front wheel speed sensor...i checked the sensor and it is cracked in a way that it bounces and is not functioning. Also had the neutral safety switch checked and its faulty as well so got both parts on the way. The pads are almost brand new with only 3000 mi on them

 

I got all of the above figured out. Now i am noticing the transmission is leaking fluid. The trans was replaced with a brand new rebuilt transmission. I cannot tell where the leak is coming from other than somewhere on the top? Also running through tons of power steering fluid...any ideas?
to refresh this a 2002 Accord Ex Auto. B7XA trans.

 

Is the fluid coming out of the vent tube on top? That would make me think overfilled or overheating.

Power steering fluid leak is different. Start at the reservoir to see if it's leaking beneath it, then follow along the lines and see if it's leaking at the steering rack somewhere.

Is there smoke from anywhere(trying to see if it's landing on something hot and might give you a clue as to where).

 

99stockcivic
if you are referring to the breather for the transmission, i am not sure where that is located. But i traced the leak to the cooler line on top of the transmission. I pulled everything apart and noticed there is one washer to seal that banjo bolt...there is not a washer between the transmission and cooler line..and there is a washer between the cooler line and the banjo bolt head. Also the one that is there, didnt appear to be a crush washer. Just flat. It did not take much effort to crack the bolt loose when i took it off, and when i tightened it up, once i thought it was tight i gave it another couple snugs. The leak has slowed quite a bit so far. Im thinking i need to go get 2 washers that are suppose to be there and install them and then top off with fluid?

 

Yes, makes sense.