Need help diagnosing a no start (b18c1)
Need help with my b18c1 build. Just pulled the motor and did a fresh rebuild. Scat rods, cp pistons, acl bearings, arp headstuds, and arp rod bolts. This motor was previously boosted and it had aquired a slight knock from a rod bearing and I pulled it and rebuilt it. Got the motor back in, and no crank. Fuel pump runs consistanly in key position 2. Once I unhook the starter solinoid fuel stops running consistantly and can cycle the key after unhooking and pump will run normal ( 2 to 3 seconds). With solinoid hooked up, Engine light is fully on, and oil pressure and battery light are on (very lightly). Unhook the starter power wire and am still getting power through the starter solinoid with a test light with power unhooked. Any opinions on what is going on? Engine had no codes previously. It's in a 98 civic, chipped p28, y8 harness.
All grounds seem to be good. I have upgraded and added grounds as well. I thought the starter solinoid was bad causing constant power coming (out) of it as I checked it with a test light, but power is still coming out of it even with the starter power cable unhooked. Assuming it is sending power back through the solinoid wire to the ignition causes the fuel pump to constantly run
When the engine is not running, the ON(II) key position allows the fuel pump to run only 2 seconds .
When the engine is not running, the ON(III) key position allows the fuel pump to run continuously.
What's clear is that voltage from the ON(II) key position is being improperly fed to the fuse 31 main/relay ECU circuit, likely due to miswiring, thereby causing the fuel pump to run continuously in the ON(II) key position.
Carefully inspect the clutch pedal switch and ignition switch circuits.
When the engine is not running, the ON(III) key position allows the fuel pump to run continuously.
What's clear is that voltage from the ON(II) key position is being improperly fed to the fuse 31 main/relay ECU circuit, likely due to miswiring, thereby causing the fuel pump to run continuously in the ON(II) key position.
Carefully inspect the clutch pedal switch and ignition switch circuits.
It will only run continuously in position 2 when the starter solinoid is plugged in. With the solinoid unplugged it will run it's normal couple seconds.
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If you leave the starter solenoid connected but remove 7.5A dash fuse 31, does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds in ON(II)?
I had traced it back to the block having a short, coming back to the main grounds on the thermostat having slight power to them. Test light on the (2 brown 1 black) ground harness had power to them. Short is still there with ecu un plugged. Unplug the main relay and short goes away.
Yes I did. With grounds unhooked, besides battery ground ,ecu unplugged, I checked connections on the main relay. Top right pin (yellow black stripe has power, second to top left yellow and green strip has power, bottom right (black has no power. Once I plug in the relay and put my test light on that pin it has slight power, and the relay clicks.
this is also all with ignition on. With no ignition on, no short.
this is also all with ignition on. With no ignition on, no short.
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