So this problem has existed and plagued my daily driver for well over a month now. I have a 94 Civic DX sedan with a manual D16Y7 from a 97. I have worked on the old girl almost daily and read through out the forums on a nightly basis. And except for replacing the ignition, I believe I have covered everything else mentioned here and other forums. So let me make a complete list of everything that I have replaced, tested, or checked.
1. I started by testing the battery. Sitting at 13.26 after charging. Bought a new battery and no crank. So went back to the previous.
2. Checked the fuses and relays under the hood. All intact and replaced the relays because I couldn't understand how to test those.
3. Took my starter out and had tested by O'REILLY'S with a pass. Reinstalled.
4. Checked all cables, wires, and grounds for corrosion, proper tightness, cleaned all surfaces, and replaced battery terminal connections.
5. Checked to make sure oil was present on dipstick and hand cranked engine to make sure that it was not locked up or seized. All good there.
6. Checked the condition of each spark plug and wires. Measured for correct gap and all good there.
7. Checked and replaced all fuses under dash and no issue there.
8. Tested main relay by feeling and didn't get a response when key was turned to position 1. So replaced and now I feel each turn of the key.
9. Listened for the humming noise produced by the fuel pump and sounds like it did before. Also added an additional five gallons of fuel to make sure fuel was in the tank. All good there.
Now is there anything I am missing? I could really use your help, insight, and any knowledge or experience with a similar problem. My baby went man-down and I'm just trying to revive her.

 

When you turn the key from OFF to ON(II).

Does the fuel pump prime? I wasn't sure how to interpret this comment:

Does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds?

 

Clutch safety switch plunger/bumper

Take the plug out of the clutch switch and jump the connections with a paper clip

 

I second that.

 

Sounds like its the clutch safety switch, push start it and see if it will run

 

I just checked. I turn the key, dashboard lights up, CEL light stays lit for maybe 2 seconds, and then shuts off. And yes the fuel pump primes.

 

Alright so I don't know if I'm blind, extremely blind, or the whole entire starter inhibitor/ clutch safety switch has vanished! I think it should be mentioned that I haven't needed to press the clutch in when I start the car. Literally I could turn the key and my car would just start. It's like it was still an automatic. Could this be a cause or factor to consider?

 

It depends on how the PO shorted the switch together. It could have corroded causing an open.

I believe the switch is a normally open switch and pressing the clutch would normally close the switch.

Yep confirmed, switch closes upon clutch being depressed. Which grounds out the circuit at G401. Pin 4 of the starter relay connector C433 is a Blu/Blk wire that would normally go to the clutch interlock switch C421 pin 1.

 

If you could start the car without pushing in the clutch before it is likely the bypass the previous owner used has failed. I'm not familiar with the EG wiring (I cant recall the colors in the ek either). But the wiring comes over the fuse box inside the car to go up to the clutch pedal

You can get a starter toggle switch for $14 or so at an auto parts store and hook it to the starter. When you press the button it will send electricity to the starter.

With the key on, the car should stay running

 

If you attach a wire to the + battery post and touch the free end of the wire to the starter solenoid terminal, does the engine crank?

 

The small wire, not the big wire

 

I am going out to try and jump the starter, but to be clear I am making contact with the smallest wire on the solenoid? And this is just to see if the car will turnover?
I like the sound of this toggle switch idea. How do I do it? How does it work? Is there a certain size wire gauge I should use? What size amperage should the toggle switch be? I will update you when I come back about jumping the solenoid.

 

 

If this car was converted from auto to manual, there would not be a clutch switch over near/above the under-dash fuse box. I would check the wiring at the auto shifter electrical connection/shifter position switch assembly to make sure something hasn't changed in the center console/lower dash area. Repair if necessary.

 

You are correct I got my big 6' a$$ down under the dash and took a look. No switch there. I will go out and look for something else. The struggle is real.

 

So I tried jumping the starter yesterday and nothing. I pulled my battery in last night and it is sitting on the charger. I'm currently in the process of taking apart the starter motor and solenoid to see what if that's the problem.

 

Bench test the starter.

 

get a rebuild kit like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KIT-DENSO-S...MAAOSwsnVd1aET

make sure it fits your model.

 

betting a dumb question, however if it was a auto and now its a stick, what did they do to the safety nutral switch that was on there? how did they change the wiring to change for that?

 

I'm not familiar with the Honda conversion, but in other cars its just a matter of bypassing the shift interlock switch with a wire jumper. For example the automatic car needs to think its in park or neutral to send the start signal to the starter so you just bypass that sensor

 

Sorry if I’m a little late but replace the ignition switch. Had the same issue on mine couldn’t figure it out