This morning I noticed my clutch was a bit spongey. It’sa stage two clutch and I remember it being very firm. I checked the fluid reservoir and there was barely any fluid. I got dot3 fluid and tried to do the gravity bleed method. When I opened the bleeder valve, my clutch pedal sunk down and won’t go up in its own anymore (I was told this was normal and it does that Bc of air in the system.). But when I bleed it, this time with a coworker, he would pump it a few times and press the clutch down and hold while I bleed the system. I did this a few times, and the clutch pedal is still sunken down. I checked underneath the clutch and noticed dirty black leaks. Could it be a bad cmc? Or am I bleeding it incorrectly? Or perhaps both?

 

Replace the CMC.

 

Okay I’ll replaced the cmc. Could you also tell me the correct way to bleed the system after I’m done? I’ll most likely be by myself while doing this. But if two people is easier then I’ll grab someone from the side

 

Also, while replacing the cmc should I do the slave too or no? I checked the slave and it’s okay

 

When I said okay I meant as in no visible leaks

 

I think the slave is fairly inexpensive, so you may as well replace it too.

 

Do you have any brake bleeding tools?

 

Replace both the slave and master cylinders. I ordered mine from Amazon and it was much cheaper than most places. Look for "ADLER" brand. They are direct manufacturer for Honda...meaning it's the same part, without the "Honda" stamping on it.

** Unfortunately, you may or may not need a new gasket for the MCC. It is NOT supplied with the new part. I had to re-use mine when I replaced both cylinders last weekend. **

 

I would but my car is my only vehicle and it’s Stuck in a parking lot rn I’m planning to work on it today. No choice.. the Autozone near me has diralast... added those okay?

 

You don't need any specialty tools to do the work. Just make sure to bleed all the air out of the system or you will run into issues.

 

The bleeder hose mentioned in diagram makes the bleed process a hell of a lot easier. Without the hose, air will tend to be drawn back into the slave cylinder.

 

So I was only able to get the master and slave off. Tomorrow morning I will come back and replace them with newer ones. I looked at the seal from my master and it looks like it’s been leaking. Also, my carpets is a bit wet so yes it was the cmc

 

I see some people on YouTube, before they install the new cmc, they attached a hose that connects the reservoir and a valve and start pumping fluid by pressing the “clutch”. Is this necessary or can I just install it dry and bleed it normally when everything is together?

 

When you install a new MC, it should be bench bled. The MC should come with instructions.

 

you're confusing it with the brake master cylinder. You CANNOT bench bleed a CMC.

 

When installing a new master cylinder make sure the push rod is adjusted so the master cylinder piston comes all the way out to its internal stop when the pedal is all the way up. This is essential for proper operation.

Bleeding the clutch is a lot simpler than the brakes. A pressure or vacuum bleeding rig will make very short work of it. The "no special tools" method requires an assistant who can follow directions. It isn't necessary to attach a hose to the bleeder. If you do catch the fluid coming out do not reuse it. Start with the pedal all the way up. The pedal person should hold it up with their foot underneath the pedal. It is going to be necessary to manually raise the pedal each time to bring it up (a lot of people in DIY forums really freak out over this for some reason). This is because by design the spring in the clutch cover provides the force to move the pedal back up, acting in reverse through the hydraulic system.

With the pedal all the way up, open the bleeder and tell the assistant to push the pedal down and hold it on the floor. This doesn't have to be done super slow but don't slam it down. Then close the bleeder and then tell them to bring the pedal back up. Check the reservoir and add if necessary. Leave the cap off during this process. Of course if the reservoir runs dry you will have to start over.

Repeat the bleed cycle a few times and you should have a steady stream of fluid coming out without air bubbles. Close the bleeder and test operation.

 

This inexpensive tool makes the bleeding process a one-man job. You can buy one at an auto parts store.

 

Does the clutch slave cylinder needs to be bench bled as well like the cmc?

 

No. As NVturbo mentioned, my comment pertains only to brake master cylinders. My mistake.

 

Okay, I am about to install the cmc and clutch slave right now I’ll get back to you guys when I’m finished. Hopefully all goes well

edit: a typo

 

Okay I tried following the bleeding instruction with the hose attached to the bleeder valve and a bottle of brake fluid. It was working and then I think the hose came up in the air and it introduce air into the system... we keep trying but no success anymore... how do we restart it? Bleed all the fluid from the bleeder valve and start over?

 

Close the bleeder valve on the slave.

Secure hose on bleeder valve with zip tie, if necessary.

Secure other end of hose to bleed container with hose fully immersed in brake fluid using a zip tie, if necessary.

Also keep the CMC reservoir full of brake fluid during the entire procedure.

Restart bleeding procedure ensuring that the hose end in the bleed container is always fully immersed in fluid. This will prevent exiting air from re-entering the system.

 

Should I prime the line by sucking all the air out of it before inserting it to the slave valve?

 

Not necessary

Pressing the pedal will fill the line with fluid and eliminate the air.

 

since the fluid reservoir is much smaller than that of the brake reservoir, you have to keep an eye out. Letting the fluid run empty will definitely introduce air into the system. It's almost like you will need 3 people. LOL