94 Honda Civic LX - seems like the transmission isn't catching the gears.. i have absolutely no acceleration.. normal engine revving on the tachometer.. there is a weird noise when it happens.. so like i can drive like normal for like a mile or two regardless of warm up time... When it first happened i was hauling *** to meet my ex bc i left my phone in her car.. on the way home it just lost power.. i shut it off and checked the fluid levels and all was fine.. no leaks.. got back in and it drove a little closer and did it again.. so i shut it off and restarted it again and made it home.. also there weren't any transmission noises or anything..
No dummy lights either

 

I'm assuming automatic transmission? If so, torque converter may have been over heated and isn't operating as it should. As well, automatic transmission fluid has polymers in it that die out over time, use and heat. Lower polymer count also affect the torque converter. Or the other possibility is the clutches in the automatic transmission are just about gone and it's starting to slip intermittently and will just get progressively worse until it won't move the car at all.

 

I'm going out tomorrow to check the ecu for any codes.. i was reading where a TPS sensor could be at fault... If it were the transmission would it at least have made a noise? Some kind of grinding or something? I also heard the fuel pump could be at fault too.. that it's not getting enough gas or something.. idk i really hope the transmission isn't shot..

 

Also just ran ODB to find any error codes... No luck

 

Where in the world did you plug in an OBD2 scanner into the OBD1 car???

 

Look I'm not the average idiot ik it's an odb 1 car if ya wanna flame someone you need to gtfo my thread i ain't the one.. and my car is sick so i def ain't in the mood for bs..!! Be nice or go away

 

HAHAHAHAHA! That’s funny right there.

TomCat IS trying to help. Your poor attitude is going to cost you.

1.) Is your transmission an automatic?!

2.) You have an OBD1 car, how did you “ran OBD”? Please explain.

Without answering those two questions you aren’t going to get much help.





eH.

 

If you think I'm flaming you and wish to continue being extremely rude (to a moderator at that) you may find you won't be able to receive help here.

I was asking in extreme surprise that you found a plug that actually fit the scanner. I was hoping you'd clarify as what you describe I do not believe is possible.

Now, do you wish to continue diagnosing your car or do you wish to continue presenting your pride and ego and pissing off a moderator to the point of you taking a vacation from the site?

 

it might be your timing belt. I had the same problem where it took FOREVER to go up to 40 mph and it was that I needed to reset my timing belt. Fixed the problem. If it’s not that you may have a big vacuum leak..

 

OBD1 Civics had a way of flashing the code numbers when you jumped the right two pin connector. I would guess that is how he did it.

 

Yes, most of us are well aware of the service connector blink code method.

The heavy confusion lies in the terminology of "scanning" which Honda can do on OBD1 cars and maybe Hondash will function similarly maybe? However, usually when someone says they scanned their car they are talking the common obd2 scanners.

 

The problem with what the OP posted was “no luck”. What does that mean? He wasn’t able to pull codes or there weren’t any codes flashing or he couldn’t plug in a scanner? Some days I miss Ron.





eH.

 

FYI TomCat39, "High End" Scan/Diagnostic tools like a HDS, Launch, Maximus or Zeus have adapters that can connect to the 3-pin OBD-1 data port and provide live data and codes. It does not provide quite as much information as the OBD-2 system, but certainly more than a paperclip in the SCS plug.

 

The data provided by the 3-pin plug is similar to that of what you get from a Hondata s300 or Neptune Demon.

 

Just for a little more clarity, I was under the impression HDS is the newer Honda system (used to be HIM). I've heard of Hondash but not sure if it provided codes as I haven't seen a whole lot of discussion on it.

I thank you for the heads up there are other systems (assume consumer orientated) of Launch, Maximus and Zeus that can scan Honda OBD1 3 pin data ports. Or are these still shop orientated so thousands of dollars and not likely the general public is going to have it available to them?

 

By jumping the green cord with a paper clip and counting the flashes Einstein.. I'm not stupid and being inferred that i am is rude.. figure that one

 

No i couldn't get any error codes besides the tps which I'm kinda thinking i set off.. am checking that in a bit.. just unsure if a throttle position sensor would cause it to not catch gears.. funny thing tho is from more and more reading it's really looking like a bad torque converter.. it has had issues with overheating in the summer.. i assumed that was fixed with a new noon leaking radiator.. ughh i can't win for losing.. i may have to repair this bc going to a mechanic is outside my price range.. and while I'll keep my baby for better days buying a work truck and starting all over seems to be like what my tax check is gonna have to go for... God i hate life

 

This could potentially cause a lack of power situation but would be an all the time sort of thing. It sounds like you are having everything crop up at once. I still believe by your description your issue lies in the transmission. However, if you've had overheating issues, you may also want to rent a block tester from one of the auto part stores and test to be sure it didn't cause further issues of warping the head enough to cause the start of a head gasket leak.

BTW, any inference is self imposed based on your perspective/experience and selective reading. My emphasized questioning is typically in the area of surprise at finding something I wasn't aware of, i.e. "You can do that?!" or "That fits there?!" Take it as you will.

 

I said that these are "High End" systems... VERY expensive and are typically shop oriented. The cost is prohibitive for a consumer. Currently, the least expensive of these systems is the Launch, which is about $3000.00. The Maximus is the Matco version of the Launch with a few extra abilities... and is about $2000.00 more. The Zeus is the Snap-On model from their Modus line... price starts around $9000.00. "HDS" is the Factory Honda Diagnostic System. It has been called that for years... if it was called HIM before, it has been some time ago. That system is over $25,000 and has a monthly access fee as well... it is almost un-affordable for even a busy shop, and thus, why they are nearly a Honda/Acura Dealership exclusive.

I don't think TPS has any connection to how the transmission moves fluid on the inside... especially if you have a '92-95 Civic. The '96-00 may have some electronic input since it doesn't have a kick-down cable. Monitoring TPS values and comparing them from proper operation to the "no pull" symptom that you have described would certainly tell the tale.

 

I understand your pain in the lack of funds for any costly repairs. I have known it well over the years.

If you do get a working transmission and torque converter, one thing you might look at adding is a magnefine 3/8" filter to the return line (hard line going to the firewall side) of the transmission. This will help keep your fluid clean and catch any debris to help prevent wear.

You could also try the 3x3 method of transmission flush. It's the method most recommended for the older Honda transmissions.

Process is this:
1) Drain 3 liters (quarts) of transmission fluid from the tranny and fill with 3 liters (quarts) fresh.
2) Drive 100 miles
3) Drain 3 liters (quarts) of transmission fluid from the tranny and fill with 3 liters (quarts) fresh.
4) Drive 100 miles
5) Drain 3 liters (quarts) of transmission fluid from the tranny and fill with 3 liters (quarts) fresh.

Tranny is considered flushed.

I fear the damage is already done and a 3x3 flush will not do much but you never know. Up here in Canada, it's a bit over 90 bucks for the 9 liters (bottles) of Honda ATF after tax so it's still not cheap but way cheaper then a new tranny.

 

I believe the tcu does require a signal from the tps and a few others as well. Haven't looked at it but if its similar to the integras yes it looks for the tps.

I recall replacing my sisters tcm in her db7 a while back because it got fried, somehow. I did noticed when I replaced it with a working tcm her car was more responsive. B20 was hauling *** and spinning tires.

 

I believe people have said the TCM in the 5th gen controls 4th gear and torque converter lockup. While 1-3 is mechanically operated inside the transmission.

One thing I did not notice mentioned is what gear(s) the problem occurs.

 

Ok... Ughhh cars still not running... Update; the original problem was the TPS & the MAP sensor.. i replaced that, after some due problems about getting the TPS properly situated because ya can't really see it without taking the front of the throttle body off which was what ended up happening.. still not much power but way more than i had.. system seems clogged up from running all the test start runs and white smoking the garage out.. now it won't turn over.. I've taken out the ECU from the passenger side kick panel to check for burnt parts.. bc I've done checked all the fuses.. I wasn't having any problems with the starter before mind you.. though that's out now.. checked it.. teeth are fine.. spins properly and sounds normal.. going to put it back in the morning.. question tho i couldn't budge the flywheel at all with my fingers making me wonder if the flywheel is stuck sure to a locked up tranny.. idk should it spin at all? Cause i tried with my fingers but it wouldn't budge.. i read here on HT that it should take some force but should it be able to move at all or are my hands weak lol.. and apology to the Mod.. i want to cry right now.. without this car my life is really really over... That's how precarious my life is right now.. without this car running I'm soon to be homeless and fucked guys..

Sincerely,
Probably screwed

 

Also odb1 code CEL light stays illuminated.. Was it where it stayed off or stayed on that meant my ECU Was fried or is it my oxygen sensor? Like when i go to start it it ticks once.. no more.. which is another reason why i think the tranny is locked.. 🙏🙏🙏🙏 i really do pray it's not beyond my repair..

 

Oh yea.. it wont turn over at all right now