Hello all, names “Cletus” and i am kinda new here.



**BACKROUND:**

I am capable of turning wrenches. I’ve been doing it my whole life. I was born, raised on, and I currently work with carbs and big displacement N/A v8s [GM].

I’ll try and put as much informational my situation as I can.



Thank you in advanced for your input/comments/recommendations.etc.



**BUT FIRST KEEP IN MIND**



-I have minimal experience with



1: Fuel injection



2: Tuning an ECU.

(yes, I can fix a modern car I have explicit understanding for all sensors in a modern car).



3: Turbochargers

(I have slapped turbos on **** I don’t care about with success, but legitimently no planning and half assed homemade parts lol.)



4: NON-pushrod valvetrains. (Although I understand vTec, plus how/why it functions) just never modified anything like this on an interference type engine.



**SITUATION:**



I had very high end parts laying around to assemble a b20b with a Pr-3 cylinder head. (was going to build a street car years back). Decided I’m going to make a rat rod looking thing with my little brother. Now there was minor thought put into these parts but for the most part I was pretty naive with my purchases.



**WARNING**

before I dig into any of this if you at any point feel the need to say

-“sell it”

-“it’s gunna blow up”

-“b20s don’t do boost”

Keep it to yourself I’ve already assembled it and I’m gonna run it to it’s full potential.

I have all the components let’s just see what happens at this point.



*What I want to know is the following:

(Please correlate answer with corresponding numbers please)



1: overall opinions of what I assembled

(Pics may not have upload sorry)

(@the_duhlitass {my insta for pics})



2: estimated power

(if possible... I know you can’t dyno a engine by part numbers. but potentially maybe someone may have had a similar setup?)



3: recommendations on parts I still need to acquire.





Ready? It’s a lot





Block:

*B20b

-Hot tanked

-Bored .5 (84.5 mm)

-Machined for a vTec cylinder head



Rotating assembly:

-Wiseco #k623m845

10.5:1 84.5mm flattop pistons

-Manley h beam connecting (OEM length)

-Ls(1.8l b18b1) polished/balanced crank

-ARP mains studs

-ARP rod cap bolts

-King bearings {main/rod} (idc about your color theory)



In between:

-Supertech B/G (professionally installed)

-Cometic MLS .30 Headgasket

-ARP head studs





Cylinder head:

*Pr-3 B16 vTec

-Hot tanked

-Ported

-Polished

-Machined for non vTec bottom end

-Manley titanium valves w/springs/retain.

*(allegedly my machinist stated that there is Manley titanium valves and a spring pack/retainers in this head but I cannot confirm or deny. I bought the head preassembled from a close friend who owns/operates a highly reputable local machine shop)*

-Comp cams #57400

Solid QuickTime 222/222 camshafts

-Skunk2 racing pro series intake manifold

-Skunk2 racing composite fuel rain

-DNAmotoring top mount t4 turbo manifold w/60mm wastegate vband port

-Hx35 (5.9L 24v Cummins diesel turbo)

-G/E adjustable cam gears

-Gates racing Tbelt

-VMS adjustable assisting Tbelt tensioner

-MSD pro series EXT coil dizzy cap/rotor

-NGK wireset (no I’m not going C.O.P)

-obd:1 wiring harness



^^ALL OF WHICH IS ALREADY ASSEMBLED/TOURQUED TO SPEC. ON A STAND^^





PARTS I DONT HAVE YET:

-Injectors

-Fuel pressure regulator

-Throttle body

-Spark plugs

-ECU (the more simple the more better)

-Wastegate

-Clutch/Axles (don’t wanna drift off of engine topic to much)



Not that it matters but this is going into a 93’ 4 door that should’ve been scrapped in 05’ with a STOCK Ls trans.

-“granny’s civic”





It’s a lot, I’ve done a lot of research but nothing is going to come into the specifics of what I want to know. I can’t find someone even using this camshaft. But Yet again my first Honda engine. So bare with me.

-Thank you for your time.

-Enjoy your new year.

• Cletus the Duhlitass
  
  
  

 

Well.. There are so many answers you've stated you don't want to hear so, what I'll say is simple... Good luck..

 

I like that you have the correct ARP products to hold all of it together. If you are running aftermarket cams, you should check that you are not running stock valvetrain. Seems to me that everyone just ops for 1000cc injectors and a 255 fuel pump. As for the ecu, i'd just go with a stock, socketed ecu. The tuner will tune and then burn a chip with your tune on it and install it into your ecu.

 

This is a BS statement lol no disrespect but what specifically encourages you to say that.. what do you think is going to be my biggest problem..

 

for a fact this is an aftermarket valve train.. is it titanium? Is it Manley? I’ll never know. They are double wound springs and very very shiny valves. As well as I did state he’s a good friend and reputable business owner... the proof is gunna be in the pudding with this engine I know it.

 

Hey an aftermarket Valvetrain is better than stock, so we can leave that there. Other than that, the only issue everyone on here is gonna see, is that its a B20 on boost. So its going to blow up.

 

B20... 10.5 compression.. Topmount mani... HX35... Other than those, it really seems pretty standard. Swap that manifold, and lower your compression if you want any longevity with that turbo, and even that's asking a lot. You're about to see a light switch power build on the weakest sleeve B-series made.

 

Friend i really liked your post. Its well explained on were you are sitting. The only think you should change right now imo is the stock sleeves.
You should go for a CSS cnc blockguard on the block because of the very britle B20 cylinders. Its not that expensive too. Unlike the other B series you could just do 400whp safe on them and call it a day on a stock block,
b20 blocks are prone on cracking above 300whp+ If you end up doing a css sleeve support job id say you are good to go in that holset for whatever the turbo limit is. Having a 7 blade holset is a good sign and it may be well over 500whp turbo.
If you can see the 7 numbers on that turbo CHRA ill give you some extra data.
Shiny valves on the inside are maybe ferrea competition plus. If i remember correct the ferrea 600 werent mirror finish on the inside.I coult be wrong tho. If they are comp plus valves you golden.

-Injectors id 1050X

-Fuel pressure regulator id keep it stock for now

-Throttle body stock for now

-Spark plugs many many options here.

-ECU (the more simple the more better) Crome gold is cheap, not the best but its simple and it WORKS.

-Wastegate measure the turbo manifold opening. Tial or turbosmart <- my favourite right now

-Clutch/Axles (don’t wanna drift off of engine topic to much) Stock for now or DSS 2.9 Later ( they are for up to 800hp)

A big ? is that top mount tho. Is it a chinese manifold or a handmade from some shop? I have a feeling youll end up fabbing the turbo kit around it and
by replacing it youll pay twice for the downpipe... Top mounts are eyecandy unless youre going for 600+ If you have a welder ask him to copy a "mini eq turbo manifold"(goolge search for images of this mani)
Its perfect spool and powerwise. Greg from go-autoworks is a good welder and can make what ever manifold you like. mini eq is just my favourite design.
Clutch: You can get a competition clutch stage 4 or a clutchmasters FX400.

 

dont get me wrong, I respect all of these opinions, y’all are more experienced with these then I am. I vividly remember everyone telling me this years ago.. but I’ve gotten SO MUCH mixed information..

correct me if I’m wrong
cylinder pressure is what my downfall is. Not the sleeves. (Yes the cylinder is thin with too much cylinder pressure it will crack/distort I get that) but in theory what did I do

-I opened the bore (thinning the sleeve .5mm)
—What is stock comp. 9.5?
-I have 10.5:1 with an generous sized H/g ——-(.030mm)
a b16 head. So realistically Im prob BARELY pushing 11:1.
-All of which is sun on a significantly lighter rotating assembly.

with that being said,
this is a hx35 the intake side of this turbo is huge. I’m not looking to put the cylinder head in the hood. I’m talking like 5/6lbs max. And it’s not even gunna make that until later in my rpms. I dont know I’m justifying all of this as much as I can but I really don’t think that the c:r is going to be that high.

 

Like people have used higher comps, non flattop pistons on high boost with significantly less aftermarket reinforcement and have gotten away

 

And all this is why I simply wished you good luck.

 

i understand the sleeves and why I should’ve done them but I did get a block gaurd... do they even do anything because it seems that no one cares about it still telling me it’s gunna grenade.... but like legit people are slapping these things together in their basements with no money at all and making power on stock bottom ends. Yeah they don’t last forever but nothing good does. I don’t plan on this being a 100,000mile engine.

 

^ Are you talking about the block guard? Some people says it helps, some say it causes heating/cooling issues. Some say you need to install and then overbore your motor, some just tap it right in and call it a day. From what I seen online, everyone has their own method of block guard installation.

As for the CSS, they do offer it for the B20 but they don't warranty it at all, stating on their site, that the sleeves are too weak from factory to begin with.

You already have everything slapped together. Just run it and learn from it.

 

No serious builder even considers a block guard. Sleeve or CSS and frankly, even CSS can not.. Wait.. WILL NOT guarantee anything done on a B20 while they back others, even the single slams, for 500+whp. These jokers "slapping these things together in their basement" is the fad that is giving this brand a bad name. It's all good though, I like the fact there is almost no respect in my area for Honda and when challenged by the 900000th SRT Charger; I've got them centered in my rearview mirror before they even get to 4th gear.. Ok. Rant over. Lol!
Miniram manifold, 9.0-9.5 compression, 45lb/min turbo around 15psi, and a good tune on E85.

 

I’m with this guy. ^. Unfortunately I like some of the setup, but the b20 bottom ends just don’t hold up. Plus you already punched it out a little more so that doesn’t help your case. Your manifold is designed for the higher HP setups that really need the flow. That turbo is rather large, in combination I think it will take a while to get that turbo spinning. It will come on too late I think. Your cams are showing a 260/262 duration. For a high comp na it’s good, but for FI your gong to be blowing boost out of the tail pipe from them valves being open so much. As far as HP, anything above 300 like stated above your asking for trouble on your sleeves. I don’t think that blockgaurd will help you with anything, would probably just end up distorting the top of the cylinders. If anything, you can always try to get that stuff and do a DIY “sleeve”. Google it and you will find it.

all in all, I see where your going with this. And I like the idea. But a lot of things will have to change if you want a efficient street car. Put it together and run it. Just know if you decide to go creeping into the 310whp mark, your on borrowed time.

and like others have said, get a obd1 ecu have it socketed and you can either spend the money on Neptune demon or Hondata S300 $400/$500. Or just find a Neptune dealer and have them use their demon to tune and burn that data to a chip.

 

respect all of this 110% I think everyone should follow me along my journey i dont know why but I feel lucky and like y’all said I already got it together... so... LETS SEND IT!! stick around I’ll stay posting pics and such

 

Your already this far along, so see what happens. Oh, and the CC stage 4 clutch is pretty good. Affordable (around $340) and will hold what your after. Let us know how it goes.

 

I am going to add that I do have a stock LS block for backup

 

Not for nothing if this pans out and does work.... I may be the most hated person on the Internet 😂😂

 

It's never for nothing. You wouldn't be the most hated person either. I myself am doing what was once thought impossible; pushing the 400whp mark (if not actually higher) on stock sleeves at max bore (76mm) on a D16Z6 so, I'm all about busting the chops of the naysayers.

 

d16 and 400whp shouldn’t be in the same paragraph but I absolutely love it... If she goes she goes... money well wasted. But if it holds I get to have a good laugh go fast and have the satifaction.

 

Do a css and youll be folden. It will hold 500whp. Just dont push it above that even on Css. b18 and b16 sleeves are different design and hold 400whp stock and 600whp+ with css cylinder support.
Other than that you can send the block at golden eagle and get aftermarket sleeves instaled. But it will cost like 2-3 times the Css job. The good part is it will hold like more hp youll ever run haha.
As is with stock B20 sleeves do go over 330 whp and that on e85.
Id say yeah like the other fellow said cams might be kinda too big. You can sell them and get a GSR set for like 80-100 $ And spend the change on sleeve reinforcement.

 

wait a minute. I just did some research for a while about DIY “sleeves”.. for where I’m at it would not hurt to give it a shot. Like it really sounds like cheap insurance if you ask me. DOES ANYONE KNOW/KNOWOF SOMEONE SUCCESSFULLY RUNNING DEVCON?! I’m going to dig deeper into this but chances are I’m going to go down this road and push it until it can’t be pushed anymore.. 600hp or bust... I’ve been talking **** about this motor for years lmfaoo.

if your not first your last
you gotta be in it to win it

if she lets loose and catastrophes happen then it was meant to be.

 

Devcon has been successfully ran for short periods. You wanna 500hp Devcon block that's gonna give in a few days, go for it.. You're better off building it as it is than Devcon though. Your project, blow it up how you see fit! Concrete works as well, and cheaper than Devcon..

 

‘you still suck though