I have a 98 prelude H23 blue top swap running 35shot with basic bolt ons....anyone else running nitrous??? Not someone you know but you are or have on H22 or H23. I have some ????s whats your setup??

H23 blue top swap. Obd1 P28 sst chip/rich tune motorsports flashed. Nitrous express proton plus nitrous kit with shark nozzle with 35shot. Stock exaust with spoon tip. Intake. AEM wide ban. Oil pressure guage with blox sandwich plate. Mishimoto aluminum dual fans and shroud. EGR delete. Cruise control delete. And semi wire tuck.And a bunch of dress up anodized stuff

 

As a person considering this route, I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Nice set up by the way!

 

Ran a 100 wet shot on my car for a few years, H23/ H22 frankenstein engine, Pro1 cams, 76 mm TB etc.... Biggest thing I learned was make sure ring gaps are set on the wide side, as I killed the ringlands on a piston when running hot laps at the track.

 

H22 block with h23 head?? Ive read that the crank will eventually walk...but you said a couple years on the setup? Whats the pros of that setup? Im running the h23 with 35shot until i get the IM,TB,injectors,fuel pump etc. and get a tune with the 75shot. I melted a piston on my h22 in my daily driver and driving my project car around so im not trying to go crazy and end up with 2 cars sitting. Im deciding on sleeves or maybe just bore it and forged bottom.

 

Technically my engine was a full H22A, but H23A1 crank and rods instead of H22A parts. I did have the balance shafts and oil squirters fully deleted, which helps to increase oil pressure to the crank compared to stock. I busted ringlands on one piston after a year, and the next rebuild I had a timing tensioner fail and eat valves.
The car was always my project, although I did use it to daily at times, but I always had a stock engine ready to drop in as a backup, and that is it's current state.

 

Mine ended up running a little ruff at idle and vtech was really loud, sounded wierd and no power...ran fine under 5k RPM. Did a compression check and ended up with #1-180 #2-75 #3-180 #4-160. Just pulled my head off yeaterday and head gasket was good, did a leak down test on my head and its pretty clear just looking @ it... Valve! So im about to build my head, thicker head gasket, ARP, valves, springs+retainers, cams, intake manifold, TB, 1000cc injectors, fuel pump, rail, FPR, header and tune on 75 shot...Just trying to figure out what cams, valves etc..... Would be best on stock block. You said you ran 100 shot on stock block for a year?

 

Mine ended up running a little ruff at idle and vtech was really loud, sounded wierd and no power...ran fine under 5k RPM. Did a compression check and ended up with #1-180 #2-75 #3-180 #4-160. Just pulled my head off yeaterday and head gasket was good, did a leak down test on my head and its pretty clear just looking @ it... Valve! So im about to build my head, thicker head gasket, ARP, valves, springs+retainers, cams, intake manifold, TB, 1000cc injectors, fuel pump, rail, FPR, header and tune on 75 shot...Just trying to figure out what cams, valves etc..... Would be best on stock block. You said you ran 100 shot on stock block for a year?

 

I never sprayed on my stock engine, only my frankenstein setup. For what it's worth it was a fresh build, all new rings and bearings, stock thickness headgasket, etc. When I built it I had set the ring gaps on the "tight" end of Honda spec, and as I said, ended up having the ends touch and pop a ringland, but I had basically been doing back to back hot laps at the dragstrip. Only reason I knew anything was even off, it dropped a few tenths of ET and some trap speed.

That setup was with all stock parts, including cams, valvetrain etc. Just had a VAFC on the stock ecu even, and the nitrous setup was wet control on 100 shot jets for nitrous and fuel, backed off the dist a few degrees and some different plugs.

The next summer I rebuilt again, but that one I went looser on the ring gaps, and went to Pro1 cams and all Skunk2 springs and retainers, as well as went to Hondata so that I could actually tune it properly. Unfortunately in that time, we lost my local track, so I had to drive 3 hours each way to race, so I only ran that setup 3 passes on the bottle. That winter I had the timing let go and eat valves. At that point, I could tell from the minimal power gain with the cams that I was just not getting enough air moving through the intake and exhaust.

Last setup was the same but I ported out the oem intake and added a 76mm tb, and a Highend header, and had gone to ID 1000s but never sprayed that one. Lost that one when a cam gear loosened up and went full retarded on the dyno at like 7K. It was running awesome, so I was a bit pissed.

Since then it has a Stock JDM engine back in it, lightly tuned to street drive. I need a new radiator and then I might actually get motivated again once it's driveable.