I swaped a jdm b20b into my 97 honda civic lx with p28 ecu and jumper harnes it starts fine and idles good but when I give it a little gas it pops off of 1500 rpm and if I push it a little farther it goes past 1500 in a huge rush but under load the car will pop off 1500 the go past and start to run bad and back fire around 2400 rpm and wont go any higher I used the stock harnes from the y7 with a few modifications to a couple plugs so they reach over tried several things to fix but nothing seems to help like plugs wires injectors dizzy map and tps any ideas of what could do this?

 

Is the P28 ECU chipped?

Pull the CEL codes and post them.

 

Yes its chipped and its pull 6 and 24

 

I take that back after looking at it again its 1 6 10 and 14

 

After clearing the codes from the ECU, which of the 4 codes return after running the engine?

 

I'm not using a scan tool to get codes I'm using a paper clip to ground the 2 pin plug above my ecu and read the check engine light flashes
but I pulled the plug in the engine bay to try and reset it and now it's only code 14

 

Still running poorly and backfiring? If so, check the mechanical timing.

 

I checked the timing it's all good I googled the code 14 it is still showing and it said iacv I just picked up a new one from the parts store and about to throw it on

 

Describe how you checked the timing.

A malfunctioning IACV or IACV circuit would NOT explain your engine symptoms. Hook up a timing light, and check/adjust the ignition timing. Then go from there.

What specific chip was installed in the ECU? Was the engine tuned with the chipped ECU?

 

I let the engine warm up and adjusted the dizzy until it idled around 900 rpm

 

Please read my previous post.

 

It's a ha motors ecu chipped using chrome. No I haven't had the car dyno tuned but my budy has the same ecu and chip from ha motors and when I plugged his in my car it did the same thing

 

This^ does not rule out an ECU issue.

Describe how you checked the mechanical timing and the marks used to verify TDC1.

If the mechanical timing is verified as correct, then check the ignition timing with a timing gun.

 

Pulled the valve cover and checked the lines on the cam gears along with the bottom line on the crank pully and block

 

Can you post pictures? Maybe we can see something that you missed.

Did you check the ignition timing?

 

 

Crank pulley mark alignment?

 

 

It appears off by one tooth. That may be the problem.

 

 

Yeah, the mechanical timing is off.

 

Your right it was off by 1 tooth I did the credit card trick and lined it back up now it sounds alot better but is still doing the same thing just 1 to 200 rpm higher

 

Can you help me better understand this^ lingering issue?

But I'm glad you're now seeing improved performance.

 

It idles at 1000 rather to 900 before when I push the gas pedal slightly it acts like its bouncing off rev limiter at 1600 rather then 1500 and when I give it at least half throtle it jumps over and revs all the way out
I check and it is also still pulling code 14

 

Clean the IACV with brake or carburetor cleaner.

Adjust the idle speed. See service manual.

Remove and thoroughly clean the throttle body. Then properly adjust the throttle cable.

When done recheck for CEL codes. Hopefully, code 14 will be gone.

Then go from there.