hello honda-tech Im andrew this is gonna be my progress page for my 91 civic DX with 380km.

Bit of background on me I am a huge track junkie ive tracked my FRS and EP3 multiple times and im building my EF to compete against my buddies miata(which is in a lot better shape).
pic of my EP3



EF currently looks like this on 4 jack stands in my tiny 10X18 garage.


taken by my iphone meh quality

my plan for it which need to be complete before may 17th for the first time attack event is the following.
Replace the entire front suspension with new arms hubs axles etc
swap to MPFI, My buddy is B swapping his EG so must parts will come from him.
sticky ******* tires
rear disk conversion.
vague shifter feeling(To be diagnosed)

I have already started tearing down the front suspension most of the driver side is complete minus the lower control arm and tie rods

all the rusty components im taking out of the car

So this is my intro im hoping to make this car up and running with good at least OEM parts for now to atleast get to a point where the car might not be fast on track but safe and fun.

 

Good luck man!
I just picked up a 91 DX as well and the crank pulley bolt is beating my ***! I’ve broken so many tools trying to remove it. Had the car for less then 24 hours before timing belt snapped

 

they are great cars my buddy bought it for 1000$ and the distributor broke so I bought a new one and the car for 450$.
try air tools or a breaker bar with a metal bar ontop that's how I've removed the axle nuts and tough bolts

 

the big order I was waiting to put in should arrive next week, brand new controls arms, tie rods and ball joints all for the ''low price'' of 290$ Canadian all that I'm gonna be missing both axles and swaybar endlink and the front suspension will be ready for track duty.,

 

quick update.
Entire suspension and cooling system is out and the new parts have arrived.
Had to cut both lower control arm bolt as in was freely spinning so that was a slight delay.
Should be pressing in new bearings,hubs and balljoints next week when my buddy is back in town once that's done ill be able to throw everything in over a day or two.

All thats left to be ordered are axles, sway bar endlinks and brake rotors/pads
i am considering ordering the 11inch rotor adapter kit since from scarebird as fast-brakes doesnt ship to canada

 

finally back home from being away for a month.

I got to cracking on reassembling the suspension, i had a slight delay since the front LCA nut threads were damaged and i didnt have the particular tap on hand.
nevertheless so far the new UCA,LCA and koni struts are installed snug, planning on adding the endlinks and knuckles this weekend to finish off the front suspension.
Tires have been ordered i got some Nankang AR1 in 205/50/15 however the wheels i got which i thought were EM1 SI wheels turned out to be honda accord wheels 4X114.3 (6 spokes vs 8 spokes).

So whats left till my first track day in may:
Brakes,Alignment,wire in gauges(oil pressure,water temp and tacho), possibly add a oil cooler that i was planning on using on my ep3 thats chilling in the corner of my garage, possibly a DIY fan shroud with a 2nd fan on a switch depending how temps look like post track day

 

You should look into using the mini 11" rotor upgrade for the front. I can tell you from experience they have a decent amount of bite. You can also opt to use Acura legend dual piston calipers too. great OEM big brake kit that doesnt hurt the pockets.

 

Sorry for the long wait.
Fun fact im actually suppose to pick up a set of JDM SiR knuckles today(yes im aware of the inner tie rod mod) and picked up a set of rear trailing arms earlier this weekend to do a full brake upgrade.

So full suspension is in all that lefts is the outer tie rod once a replacement steering boot arrives it will go in but the car should be ready for the alignment shop very soon depending on if i put the SiR knuckles on or not.
I do believe that the car will be amazing with 10.3 and 9inch rotors.
got my Semi slicks mounted on a random set of tires i had lying around in my basement. once the car is out of the garage and drivable ill make sure to take pictures.

 

Picked up the JDM SiR front knuckles and ITR brake with mini cooper rotors whicht they seem to clear my old dirty wheels



replacement ball joints should arrive on monday. however i dont have the needed die to mod the tie rods(M14X1.5 for those curious) so on monday when the auto part store open ill see if they have any if not its gonna be online purchase

 

hoping someone can shed some light.
I torn down one side of the rear brakes and the rear toe arm nut(the one in the chassis) seems to have vanished.
my plan was to drill into the chassis enough to either one recover the nut or just put a standard hex.
once again hoping that someone has been in this situation and can help

EDIT: found this thread https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspen...frame-1619903/
im gonna finish tearing down the other side hoping only one side is like this

 

finally got the front suspension all finished just need to torque down the tie rods and its over.
Front brakes are loosely fitted i ordered some Powerstop trackday pads that should arrive tomorrow.

ITR brakes vs oem Dx.

Now for the rear suspesion.
Both sides are dropped awaiting some new bushings for my LCA to arrive.
My buddy came by today to help me out with the toe arm nut and instead of drilling from the bottom we decided to go from the inside using a christmas tree and angle grinder.
Currently we are gonna fold the rail back in place until i get some adjustable toe arms where i can just weld it in place.


you can tell on the bottom of the nut the rail that is unbent from me trying to remove it but mission success waiting on a few more parts to arrive and then i can put everything back in place

 

FINALLY VICTORY!!!

so last weekend after 6 months of being on jackstands the car was dropped.
The 15/16 master cylinder and booster was put on the DPFI IACV was a pain in my A** since it interfered with the booster so i had to remove my intake to actually fit it.
My buddy and I bleed the newly fitted EP3 rear calipers and ITR front calipers which took a few minutes but everything went well.
On saturday it was the first attempt we found out that there was a small coolant leak at the intake water port(my mistake wasnt torqued enough not enough sleep) and at the oil sandwich plate for the oil cooler where a sensor can be plugged in. So i brought it back in and sunday i fixed the issues and brought the car back outside.
SUCCESS so i did a few quick forward and back to verify for leaks and everything seemed fine. So i decided to take it around the block twice the steering as expected was wayyyyyy off due to the alignment but that was expected. I ordered a set of adjustable toe arms to make sure that the rear toe nut wouldnt be an issue when i bring it to get aligned and a new UCA since the ball joint was stripped and wouldnt torque essentaily throwing 50$ in the track unless i change it.

All things considered it was good i didnt expect things to go perfectly. I need to redo the brake lines in the engine bay since the old owner ghetto rigged them and its very ugly and unsafe. but to drive 1/2km to the alignment shop it should survive

Whats left to do?
since the track season isnt due to begin for a few months im not stressed about not being able to attend.
1: new driver side UCA
2: Rear Toe arms
3: steering rack boot
4: alignment
5: brakes lines
6: hood pins or fix hood latch

 

Car is aligned ready to go. first track day is on the 4th where ill hopefully get around an hour of track time to do a shakedown.
honestly tho the car drives amazing no negative comments steering is extremely light.
For next week i need to do the following things.
1.Windshield(thursday)
2. brake lines from MC to prop valve
3. motor/trans mount
4. hood pin
5. radiator fan switch

 

Shakedown complete!
today was the first track day/shakedown for the car to see what needed to be fixed. had a exciting beginning where the lower rad hose clamp wasnt tight enough and it fell off and lost all my coolant 20 mins from home lucky I brought some deionized water so i was able to replace the hose and bleed the system without damage.
The ITR front brakes providing amazing stopping power without needing to worry about fade(so far) and the nankang AR1 managed to provide adequate grip it was fairly cold out so i wasnt able to get a huge amount of grip into them.
2/3 issues here and there for the car that was found out:
brake fluid leak from the master cylinder(inbetween the booster and MC)
2nd gear doesnt seem to enjoy high rpm downshift grinding noise most likely due to VERY old tranny fluid(stripped fill and drain bolt)
radius rod bushings need replacement caster seems to be moving when i hit bumps,

here is a video of chasing my buddies 500hp camaro ss was his track day so most likely driver mod but i wasnt pushing the car as much as i could of.

 

side not: anyone have a link to a rebuild kit cant seem to find any for a 15/16 integra MC

 

well this car hates me.
took it out for a short drive yesterday when i came back to the garage i turn it off when i tried to restart it nothing, the CEL,oil pressure and battery light didnt come on.
So here is what we did to fix it.
first off the battery had gone bad started with 12.7 volts when i was stopped 30 mins later it was down to 3/4 volts.
Came back tomorrow with a new battery nothing still figured it had to be a ground replaced the ground on the valve cover since it was frayed and the battery one.
still nothing we thought possibly the starter or thermostat ground. so we started with the ground there was some corrosion so we threw some baking soda and water to try and remove some, the odd thing is that if we played around with the ground the CEL would turn on but still nothing.
so next step was the tranny ground so we took off the tranny ground and saw that the bracket that is was using was fairly rusted we grinded some rust away to expose bare metal and bam everything lights up no problem but still no crank.
starter was engaging but not spinning so we jumped the starter and it was spinning somehow by magic the starter decided to work after 10/15 secs the car with some throttle input the car started and we were able to drive it into my garage.
however this car hates me like i said it decided to leave a puddle of gas where it was

 

well some unexpected changes occurred this week what begun as a simple steering rack bushing changed turned my garage into a paint booth and accelerated my plans by atleast 4 months.
on sunday/monday when i finished my steering rack bushings i find that the bolts that go into the subframe werent torquing all the way. I tried to tap the threads to only make the issue worse causing it to not go tighter than hand tight.
So luckily for me i had a spare subframe i was planning on cleaning up and swapping in this winter. I gave it a quick paint spray to get it ready and changed the rack end bushings and paint the rack.

old subframe removed


crusty 30 year old bushing


new used subframe ready to put in