hey guys i have a 93 accord automatic and am just wondering what some causes are to my problems.

Speedometer sometimes goes up to maybe 10mph max and usually is near 0.

Rpm guage seems to be way off the actual rpm sometimes, as in if i press the gas itll jump instantly to around 4k amd if i let off it drops down to almost 0.

sometimes when i put the car into reverse it will vibrate.

today my battery was almost dead so i charged it to full and the rpm guage seemed more accurate and i also didnt get the reverse vibrations.
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during my trip i was doing avg of 60mph and the rpms were around 4k to keep that speed which i think seems too high.

and the temp gauge was showing under C most of my 100mile trip but would climb to halfway sometimes even tho my heater was blowing about the same temp warm air the whole trip.

could this all possibly be the cause of a bad alternator? or could there be more issues? also does anyone have an accurate listing for the fuses under the hood for the lx model made in japan? all the diagrams i i look at were a little different than eachother with some fuses being different amps.

oh there is also some squeeling sometimes when i first start the car or start moving it but i havent checked to see what part is making the noise yet.

thanks for any insight into my issues amd i just hope it might be a semi easy fix

 

With the gauges it may be a loose connector or ground for the gauge cluster. Verify the grounds for the engine are intact. Main one from the battery to the body and to the trans. A sub cord bonding cable on the engine mount/valve cover, and the ECM engine harness ground bolts to the bottom of the thermostat housing.
Shuddering may be from incorrect base timing or in need of a tuneup.
Verify battery is in good order. If it is draining down quickly you may have an electrical issue. Check anything that is non-factory parts, or recent work done.
Unless the engine is screaming, then it is most likely a tach reading error since you have some gauge issues.
Amperage ratings differ slightly amongst the sub models due to differences in accessories on a given circuit.
Squealing is most likely the belt(s). If they seem tight enough spray some WD-40 on the belt, oil or grease may have gotten on it.

 

yeah i plan on trying to check the timing this weekend hopefully. I found out the alternator is fine and i believe the battery is good too, it has an indicator on it that is green.

i almost decided to get a new vss until i luckily noticed a thread about how if the cruise control works then the vss is good. if its the guage itself, is it easy to take out and repair? i read about possibly resoldering some stuff which i can do.

how many ground wires are there? is there a list of them or a pic/diagram describing their locations? and are they all easy access? is it ok to spray the connections with something or is it best to remove and clean the mating surfaces? the one ground connection i noticed that was disconnected was the short one from battery to fender, but i attached that before and it didnt change anything that i know of

also if there is a aftermarket deck installed, does that affect what size fuses some of the slots might need under the hood? i looked at it when i was just checking over things and saw a lot of wrong amp sizes and replaced them with the right size.. hopefully that was ok lol

 

Possibly a loose connection, there are three connectors for the gauge cluster, two on the bottom and one on top.
Since all the gauges are affected it probably isn't a board single solder joint issue, but a ground.
Hella.
Google images '1993 Honda Accord Grounds' will usually net you the majority of the grounds. IIRC the first pic actually links back to H-T with a thread on underhood grounds. There are five in the engine bay. Most critical one is the ECM harness ground, bolts to the thermostat housing.
Under dash grounds are usually labeled G401-G404(four). These are located above the kick panels, one will be a couple wires bolted to the body and the other type will look like a bunch of wires attached to a white lego that is bolted to the body. Verify they all have clean tight connections. If rusty clean off. I prefer to use 'OX-Guard' grease on those connections. Remove the bolt sand the body and the connections, dab of grease and bolt it back down.
No. If someone has changed fuse sizes they were probably trying to force a fix or simply had the wrong fuse. A 30A fuse should not replace a 7.5A fuse.
Different submodels will have a few different fuse sizes due to added components on the same circuit.
If an aftermarket deck was installed, recheck all the wiring if someone hard wired it. There may be a few wrong wired items.
On the 94-97 there are a couple of grounds bolted to the center console bracketry, can't recall if the 90-93 have the same setup.

 

well its not all the guages, its mainly just the speedometer. the rpm might just be set a little low because it goes up and down with the throttle. the speedometer will be at zero and go up to around 10-20 and kinda hover around there, and the temp also just seems to be set low. the main one with issues is speedo. also the column doesnt have the 4-5 screws in it so it keeps wanting to pop open, which helps me get a look inside there anyways.

its been raining the last few days so whenever it stops ill be able to get some more progress done and give an update. one thing that we know needs cleaning is the IACV, it revs then drops to minimum then repeats for a bit, so i disconnected it when it was doing it and it stopped. can i clean that with brake cleaner or only carb cleaner? and i need to get a replacement gasket for it before cleaning tho... im kinda tired and rambling so im gonna get off for now lol thanks for the info so far

 

It would be good to secure the loose parts.
Use TB cleaner, but don't liberally spray the begesus out of the solenoid. That stuff that cleans off carbon/varnish will also clean off the varnish on the solenoid wires which will kill it.
Usually it's just the screen that gets clogged up.
If the idle is hunting up and down when warmed up, don't forget to check the FITV, FAQ at the top of the page has a link on how to clean/tighten it.

 

ok so yesterday i replaced the window motor setup on the drivers door. i also used brake cleaner on some of the plugs because they had gunk on and in them. today my speedometer is working but doesnt doesnt work between 20-45, but it jumps up and is accurate from there up. so is that a failing vss that is slowly going bad? my cruise control still works

could it have had anything to do with the door wiring or window motor at all? thats the only thing I changed and now more stuff is working than before i did it.

 

Probably moved some wires or improved the grounding of the door inadvertently.
In which case, the way wiring is done on vehicles you can fix one thing on the *** end of the car and it affects the other side in some way.
Most likely, your common ground termination point is not the best, but when you fixed/improved the grounding of the window motor, you also improved the grounding of the other subsystems that share the ground via the same ground termination point. So instead of the circuits grounding through the actual ground points G401/402/403/404 the circuits back feed through the common termination and actually ground out via the motor housing/wiring grounds that you had to disconnect/reconnect for motor installation.

I'd suggest removing both kick panels and getting your head up under the dash and look for those four ground points, two on each side. Make sure they are clean and tight connections. Probably improve quiet a few things on your vehicle. Especially if it shows signs of surface rust or worse in hidden areas.

 

[QUOTE=MAD_MIKE;52071810]Probably moved some wires or improved the grounding of the door inadvertently.
In which case, the way wiring is done on vehicles you can fix one thing on the *** end of the car and it affects the other side in some way.
Most likely, your common ground termination point is not the best, but when you fixed/improved the grounding of the window motor, you also improved the grounding of the other subsystems that share the ground via the same ground termination point. So instead of the circuits grounding through the actual ground points G401/402/403/404 the circuits back feed through the common termination and actually ground out via the motor housing/wiring grounds that you had to disconnect/reconnect for motor installation.

I'd suggest removing both kick panels and getting your head up under the dash and look for those four ground points, two on each side. Make sure they are clean and tight connections. Probably improve quiet a few things on your vehicle. Especially if it shows signs of surface rust or worse in hidden areas.[/QUOQUOT

the last stretch of the trip on my way home, the speedometer worked even more than it did on my last post. it went through most of the way up to 60 without too many sticks/bounces, but it fluctuated a little, was slower to show acceleration than my gps speed app, and was usually 10mph slower than my app that ive been using. and when i was cruising around 60(app speed), it would go up to 70 on the guage sometimes.

in other words it seems like its getting better on its own somehow...(i feel like tomorrow when i drive it will all work like new hahaha.. and my rpm guage works perfectly now. but when im driving, the temp guage is still on C and ive rarely ever even seen it halfway up even after a long idle,ive also never seen my fans running either,so idk if they kick in when not looking or what.

 

Park the car nose close to a wall, preferably where it is not windy.
Let the car idle for a few minutes.
If the temp gauge begins to climb, more than likely your thermostat is busted and is in the open position. Replace with a new unit from Honda.

 

well the heat works fine tho, it stays warm anytime i use it. im thinking maybe the temp guage is just showing 1/4 of it's actual reading maybe

 

well i was under the dash today and couldn't ID any ground wires...

my speedometer is acting different now, when im going around 60mph and give it gas, the speedo climbs up really fast and can say 90 when ive inky sped up to 63.. then when i let off the gas it goes down lower than my speed.

i did some other work tho, fixed and rebuilt the wiper control switch on the steering column, bought new alternator belt and power steering belt. Cleaned a bunch of parts that werent working or barely working and now they are like new. soon ill finish moving tinted windows from my other 93 accord and also swap all the locks

 

They are black so they may be hard to see, especially if your car is black.
Flashlight is needed when looking under there.
If your car has a sunroof, then the drain tubes may be blocking your line of sight.
Any wires that terminate by a bolt to the body of the car are grounds, look for 10mm headed bolts attaching these wires up high.
IIRC they are kind of high up, if you are not that flexible, the easiest thing then maybe to sit in your cars chair upside down, rather than trying to wrench your neck/back twisting under the dash.