I have a b16a head with supertech springs and retainers, stock cams and everything eles. Im looking to achieve 9000rpms with my new motor build and was wondering if its possible? Some people say its a must to get upgraded lma’s or just replace them with new ones. Any input will help!

 

The engine may be able to attain 9K rpm but will the ECU allow it and how long will the engine last at the abusively high level of 9K rpms?

 

its a fully built motor for boost running on hondata s300 i just need to know if it will take 9000 rpm on stock head with upgraded valvesprings

 

Upgraded valve springs alone would be insufficient to ensure engine survival at 9K rpm for any significant amount of time.

 

what else would i need to keep it reliable at 9k?

 

What does fully built mean? And how frequently will the engine experience 9K rpm?

 

rods, pistons, arp hardware all around, the only thing stock in the bottom end is the crank.

 

Is this your first engine rebuild? Please give some details (log of measurements and precise rebuilding process) revealing your engine building expertise.

 

this will be my second tome rebuilding this motor. Currently i have a b16a with crower h-beam rods, nippon cast 9.1:1 pistons and the supertech springs and retainers. Long story short im tired of the power it makes now and i am shooting for the 400’s this tome around. I bought a set of wiesco 8.8:1 forged pistons and i am going to pair them up with the crower rods i already have. I am taking the block to the machine shop next week to bore it over to 81.5mm to make sure all the cylinders are true. I kept the stock 8400rpm rev limiter on my current setup due to the fact that i have a chinese oil pump lol. I got a brand new oem pump and me and my tuner would like to see if it would take 9000 rpm now just to get a little more mph out of each gear for street use. I still have a lot of work to do towards this new build but i am just trying to gather information on what i would need to keep it reliable at 9k rpm.

 

Consider forced induction and a more modern Honda engine.

 

Super pointless considering there's no way B16 cams will make power at 9K RPM.

Also silly to go with such low compression pistons. That engine will be completely asleep until 4500-5K RPM.

 

im trying to make 400 on pump gas.. low compression is really the only way to go.

 

really...

 

really...

 

The engine will be fine revvving to 9k. However, needs better cams to gain anything up top. And consider newer LMAs for added security. Aswell as more compression.

 

fixed

 

i love it when details get left out.

 

He mentioned it was being built for boost... OP consider this, one reason the B18C-R can rev a bit higher is due to the lighter intake valves.

 

For it to rev that high, make power and be sustainable, you'll need to completely build the head. You mentioned you already have ARP Rod Bolts and Headstuds, so the rest should all just be in the head.

• Port & Polish
• Upgraded LMA's
• Titanium Valves/Springs/Retainers
• Upgraded Valve Guides
• Upgraded Valve Seals
• BC Cams

Like stated above, you'll need titanium valves/springs/retainers for the strength and light-weight to run 9K+. B18C-R has lighter valves to achieve it's red-line, so you need to do the same.

 

Op, see my build thread to steer you in the right direction. "Simply black"

bc cams are a terrible choice of cams. You dont need valves unless yours are done. If its a street car, consider steel retainers.

better cams (gsr, typer r, tuner1, or gsc n1 cams)
valvetrain
LMAs are recommended depending on high mileage or not

 

thankyou for your input man, really helpful. Im not sure if i stated it above but i have supertech valvesprings and retainers and supertech valve seals. Im going to look into a set of cams for it now!

 

thats all good. Titanium retainers just wear faster. Think youre pose to check them like every 10k miles. Thats why i mentioned steel.