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How’s it going HT? I’ve been out of the game for about 10 years now and recently picked up a ‘97 Integra GSR to play around with. Last Honda I owned was a ‘06 RSX Type-S with a couple bolt-ons, just a fun little daily. I’ve been wanting a boosted DC since I was a chap and I’m finally making it happen! Here’s a breakdown of what I’ve got going on so far.
-Previous owners modifications:
Type R spoiler
Type R front lip
D2 coilovers
16”euro R wheels
5lug conversion
Tanabe Medallion CatBack
Greddy header
AEM CAI
Hasport mounts
ASR subframe brace and LCAs
Im wanting a weekend cruiser that I might take to the strip once in a while. I’d be happy with anything over 650hp for now.
-Purchased parts:
Skunk ProST coilovers
KTuned traction bar
Supertech springs and retainers
Skunk2 Pro1 cams
Skunk2 Ultra Race manifold
Skunk2 90mm TB
Golden Eagle cam gears
AEM fuel rail
Aeromotive A1000 regulator
Weldon filter
ID2000 injectors
DW400 fuel pump
-8feed/-6return
JBTUNED pump harness
JBTUNED hangar upgrade
S300 BBG
4bar map sensor
KLM coil plate
OBD2a-OBD1 jumper
SpeedFactory distributor block off
CompetitionClutch twin disk
MFactory LSD
Hush Performance battery tray
Odyssey PC680 battery
SpeedFactory catch can/overflow
SpeedFactory top mount manifold, t4 open, single 44
Tial MVR44 wastegate
Tial Q50 bov
SpeedFactory tucked IC/Rad. Combo
SpeedFactory fill pot/thermostat housing
I’m planning on running a Precision 6262 or 6266, both gen2 BB. Still have to make up my mind on what I want to do with the bottom end. Either get it CSS’d and build it myself, or get a complete long block from Ramey or 4P. I’m mechanically inclined and I’d love to do it myself to be able to say I built it. I’ve still got a lot of parts to buy but I’m hoping that the car will be ready by early summer. I’ll try to keep this updated along the way and hopefully it can help someone out in the future. Any help or suggestions is much appreciated. Thanks for looking!
Get it CSS'd and get 4 piston to build the head and you assemble it! that's a great combo all around! save money on labor! get the best flowing head on the market and the CSS will save you lots of money and let you make that 650 to 700 safely!
@wunfstgsr that sounds like a very good option, but I feel like the 4P head won’t really be needed at that power level. I could be wrong though. If I had the spare change I’d definitely do it! When I go for 800+ that will definitely be on the list.
Last edited by Spanky0043; Dec 5, 2019 at 04:00 PM.
Made a lot of progress on the car yesterday. Got the motor pulled and hung on a stand. I just had to put the Skunk manifold on it and drooled at that for a couple hours!
I also got the Hush Battery tray half way mounted. I’ve got to get a welder ASAP! The left side of the mount doesn’t sit flat on the frame rail so I’m going to just weld it into place or make another small bracket that will follow the contour of the rail. You can kind of see it in the second pic.
I got my IC/radiator fitted. I trimmed the grill out of the bumper and had to trim a little on both sides of the radiator support for the back door exits on the IC. Also had to trim just a little off the tab that holds the hood latch. Still have to make some mounting tabs for the IC. Where’s that welder?????
Next is painting the bay, abs delete, power steering delete, and removing all the old fuel lines.
I think my bay turned out pretty good!!! I pressure washed everything and removed all the unnecessary brackets and stuff. Sanded/prepped and sprayed it with Eastwood’s 2k Epoxy primer and top coated it with 2k low gloss Underhood Black. That stuff sprays really good to be in a can! Seems to be pretty durable so far.
Block is ready to ship!!!! I decided I’m just going to go ahead and get it sleeved. Hopefully getting it shipped off next week.
Why not CSS ?? I had a sleeved block back in the days and the cost is way more than the CSS block upgrade.
Not by much, when you account the CSS process, bore, hone, deck, you're at $700 and it's another $200 for o'ringing the block. At the end of the day you're still on a stock sleeved block that can't be bored over 82mm if you screw something up.
I got my Golden Eagle sleeved block, bored, honed, decked, bead blasted and oringed for $1400. I mean $500 dollars more for a real sleeved block is the way to go if you ask me.
My new Darton Sleeved block cost me around $1400 bucks.
Not by much, when you account the CSS process, bore, hone, deck, you're at $700 and it's another $200 for o'ringing the block. At the end of the day you're still on a stock sleeved block that can't be bored over 82mm if you screw something up.
I got my Golden Eagle sleeved block, bored, honed, decked, bead blasted and oringed for $1400. I mean $500 dollars more for a real sleeved block is the way to go if you ask me.
My new Darton Sleeved block cost me around $1400 bucks.
Thats exactly what I’m thinking. Don’t want to CSS it, then a couple years down the road have to get it sleeved to hold 850 or more. I’m trying to do it right the first time with the funds I’ve got.
What’s your opinion on line boring and using ARP studs on the mains? I don’t really know what the exact benefits of doing that are. Anything special have to be done when installing the oil pump with bored mains? I’m probably going with a Ramey 84mm.
I ran across your build thread the other day.... that’s a baaaaad coupe you got there AZ!
Thats exactly what I’m thinking. Don’t want to CSS it, then a couple years down the road have to get it sleeved to hold 850 or more. I’m trying to do it right the first time with the funds I’ve got.
What’s your opinion on line boring and using ARP studs on the mains? I don’t really know what the exact benefits of doing that are. Anything special have to be done when installing the oil pump with bored mains? I’m probably going with a Ramey 84mm.
I ran across your build thread the other day.... that’s a baaaaad coupe you got there AZ!
Right, to me it's simple, if you ever plan on increasing power you can and again for $600 more dollars you get a proper sleeved block. I would do an 84mm which gives you room to open the bore if anything ever were to happen. If you go with a Ramey Built block I would contact them and just talk through your build and they can the right advice based on your goals.
Get it CSS'd and get 4 piston to build the head and you assemble it! that's a great combo all around! save money on labor! get the best flowing head on the market and the CSS will save you lots of money and let you make that 650 to 700 safely!
I vote for full sleeving at this level. you can change bore at will, in addition to stroke, and have much better peace of mind.
Sorry, at 650-700whp, those are limits for css, for sleeving, it's just the beginning of its use.
I vote for full sleeving at this level. you can change bore at will, in addition to stroke, and have much better peace of mind.
Sorry, at 650-700whp, those are limits for css, for sleeving, it's just the beginning of its use.
time to bring this over ro the FI forum
That’s what I want, peace of mind! I thought about posting it in the FI section but for some reason just put it here. How can I move it?
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Right, to me it's simple, if you ever plan on increasing power you can and again for $600 more dollars you get a proper sleeved block. I would do an 84mm which gives you room to open the bore if anything ever were to happen. If you go with a Ramey Built block I would contact them and just talk through your build and they can the right advice based on your goals.
Exactly! I talked to them earlier and the guy told me they only do line boring and ARP cap bolts for 1200+hp so that’ll definitely save me some money.
Spanky’s 650+hp GSR build
