ok, i bought this car a while back and was in the process of painting BUT, i pulled it out of the garage but it woudn't start to pull it back in. the fuel pump is not energizing and I THINK i'm not getting spark because i squirted starting fluid in the throttle body and it still won't start. i replaced the main relay switch in the area above the clutch and the fuel pump. same thing. i do not hear the fuel pump pressuring up so it's not turning on. i checked all the fuses. could this be a computer issue?

thanks!

 

A common problem is G101. If it's not clean and making good contact, almost every sensor in the engine bay does not work. In turn, ECU won't shoot spark nor will it pump gas into the engine. I'm not sure if it would affect fuel pump priming though.....

Does your CEL come on for 2 seconds and then go off when you turn the key to the on position?

 

thanks but what is a "G101".... and my fuel pump doesn't come on at all. i replaced it and then tested the old one and it tested GOOD. so that's not the problem. i also changed the relay switch above the clutch area. THANKS!

 

G101 is Ground 101. it's on the thermostat housing and is the main ground for the ECU. The ECU uses this ground to ground out almost every sensor on the motor.

However, I'm not so sure it has anything to do with the main relay, and it's in the main relay that plays a significant role in priming of the fuel pump.

Does your CEL come on for 2 seconds then turn off when you put the ignition key to the on position?

 

no, it doesn't energize at all.... this problem started intermittently. i'm doing some light body work in prep for painting and i'd pull it out of my garage to work on it. one day it took a long time to start... i drove it around the block and all was fine. then it got progressively worse until no start at all. when i didn't hear the fuel pump energize i replace it but it made no difference what so ever. i also replaced the main relay switch on the drivers side under the dash. no change.... THANKS for the help...

 

You didn't answer TomCat's question -- Turn the key on don't crank watch the Check Engine light, it should come on then go out. (Also the oil and battery lights should come on and stay on). If the CEL comes on and stays on, consider G101, the main relay, or the ECU. Having ruled out the first two try leaving the key on for up to several minutes, if the CEL eventually goes out the ECU was slow to boot up but now the car should be able to be started. This means you need to replace the capacitors in the ECU.

 

sorry, i don't understand the 'lingo'.... the check engine light does in-fact STAY ON and does NOT go out when i leave the igntion on for about 3 minutes. oil and battery lights stay on...

thanks!

 

update: i removed G101 and wire-brushed it and reinstalled. it didn't have any effect. i replaced the main relay under the drivers side dash above the clutch peddle and that didn't work either. so, new fuel pump, new relay and i cleaned the 101 ground. does that leave The ECU?

THANKS!

 

Do the test mk378 mentioned. Turn the key to the on position and leave it. Check back in 10 minutes and see if the CEL is still on. If it is, the ECU is likely bad.

You can also short the service connector and get the blink codes from the CEL. But first, see if the CEL goes off after 10 minutes of the car set to on.

 

OK, will do so tomorrow morn and post results.

thanks!

 

I am facing same issue my battery exploded then I can't get the car to run with new battery it crank sound like it's gonna run but it don't

 

weird, i posted but it didn't show. i left the ignition on for 11 minutes and the CEL did NOT go out.

thanks!

 

ok, i have some lose wires under the console that need to be mentioned so i took a pic. as far as i know this car is an all stock 95 del sol with around 154K miles.

 

update: i jumped the two pin connector to get the codes but my CEL light just stayed lit and didn't pulse. i'm beginning to think, ECU.

 

The 3 wire plug, please tell us the original wire colors going in and coming out of the plug.

The 2nd picture, can't tell where the wires are coming from or where you found them, no idea what original wires those are spliced into.

The first picture it looks like one side of the plug is White/Blue, Black and Red/Black. Can't tell the other side of the plug. It also looks like that's under the center console by the hand brake.
Someone may have the ETM for the del sol and can specify what that plug is for and why they spliced into the White/Blue and the Black

Usually the CEL on solid is either the ECU has crapped out or there is a short in the service connector circuit that has the ECU permanently in service mode (not very common).

 

OP, those are NOT stock wires... you are going to have to trace them from where they originate to where they terminate and relay that back here so that we can help you.

 

ok, thanks for the replies. i'll get the wire colors later today. i have to go to Harbor Freight to buy an engine hoist. i'm leaning toward a bad ECU.

those loose wires were under the console when i replaced the fuel pump.

THANKS!

 

This relay you replaced, did it have a 7 wire plug and say "RELAY, MAIN" on the side? Just to be sure we're talking about the right part.

 

it says, "RELAY ***'Y, MAIN, RZ-132".

thanks!

 

sorry, i got sidetracked with other projects. here's the plug that i used to get the codes which didn't work. i jumped the two-wire plug and the CEL just stayed lit and didn't pulse at all. the color of the wires shows in the pic. these pugs were encased in a larger blue rubber housing and located just above the ECU to the upper right of the passenger matt area.

thanks,
tim

 

To be clear the car is cranking and not starting?

 

yes! and, it was hard starting several times leading up to the full, no start.

 

Those specific plugs are supposed to be open ended (nothing plugged into them) the 2 pin is the service connector which when you shorted shows no codes (which is good). When shorted the ECU light stays on indicating in service mode so you can set ignition timing with a timing light. The 3 pin plug is the data communication plug that requires a Honda Interface Module (HIM) and software. I believe there is another product that can interface with it now called Hondash. Hondash is a way cheaper option but I do not know the full capabilities of it.

Those two plugs are normal.

The spliced into wiring that you showed earlier is something else entirely though.

 

yes, i know that they are electric service ports but someone wanted the wire colors.

so now what?

thanks,
tim

 

I asked for the wire colors of the plug you posted a picture of in the center console..... Not the service connectors under the passenger side kick panel.... Those service connectors don't show splicing like the 3 wire plug you first posted that has crap spliced to it.....