Hondas are notoriously easy to make big power numbers but also notoriously difficult to get the power to the ground. With the new popularity of AWD swaps, the problem of getting the power to the ground has almost been completely eliminated. However, because it's new there's still lots of opinions and different information on how to make the swap effective and work. Hopefully this guide de-mystifies AWD for those wondering and gives you a game plan moving forward. We'll divide it into multiple sections so it's easy to understand.

BUDGET

As with anything, there are a multitude of ways to attack a project. I've compiled a rough idea of what to expect for different power levels as far as budget goes.

LOW Budget ( CRV Parts) 0-400HP

$5000

MID BUDGET (CRV / Wagon Parts) K Series 700HP // B Series 400HP

$9000

HIGH BUDGET ( CRV / Wagon Parts / Dogbox) 1000+HP

$15,000

These are rough estimates for setting a good budget for parts. CRV or Element parts can be used for the entire setup, however, for power applications, it's optimal to use the Civic Wagon or future aftermarket offerings.

RT4WD EXPLAINED

The most commonly asked question is "can I just take a CRV and transplant it in". The answer is yes. However, for most builds, it's not the optimal way. There are several ways to approach it using parts that aren't wagon which will be explained. But before we get into those options, we need to understand the difference between the CRV AWD system and the Civic Wagon AWD System.

Civic Wagon

The civic wagon uses a driveshaft mounted viscous coupler to control the slip between the front and the rear differential. The viscous coupler contains plates and silicon fluid. As the viscous coupler slips from a difference of speed between the the front and rear, the viscosity of the silicon fluid rises locking the plates into place as much as the silicon's viscosity permits. The civic wagon AWD system is designed to be used in a full time AWD configuration. The civic wagon rear parts have been proven up to 1300HP.

CR-V / Element

The CRV/Element 4WD system is a part-time AWD system. The system uses a 'dual pump' rear differential. The Dual Pump system detects slip and only allows AWD when needed rather than full time. Similar to the viscous coupler, as the fluid heads up, the diff is given more power. However, Honda Dual Pump fluid is prone to overheating due to extended periods of use and releases the pressure if the temperatures rises too much. When applying this to a high power street car, you might be able to get one pull in AWD, but the Dual Pump system will revert the car to FWD for safety. The CRV axles are also significantly smaller than the wagon counterparts. The CRV 4WD system is NOT designed to be used full time nor high power situations.

There are several workarounds for the CRV/Element setup which will be discussed later.

PARTS LIST

K-Series

K-Series CRV or Element AWD Transmission

RSX Cables/Shifter

Driveshaft, Diff (Matching CRV or Wagon Set, cannot interchange)

2 Long Wagon Axles or 2 short CRV Axles (Must match driveshaft diff)

Complete AWD Conversion Kit

Hasport AWD Rear Mount

*If using Wagon rear components, must get a driveshaft adapter*



B-Series

B-Series CRV Transmission

B-Series CRV Shifter/Cables OR KTuned Billet B-Series AWD Shifter/Cables

Driveshaft, Diff, Axles (Matching CRV or Wagon Set, cannot interchange)

Complete AWD Conversion Kit

Hasport AWD B-Series Mounts

*If using Wagon rear components, must get a driveshaft adapter*



Viscous Coupler Alternatives for CRV Parts

Because civic wagon parts have become notoriously expensive over the past few years, many have been seeking cheaper alternatives. People have been experimenting and have come up with several ideas. The most prominent one is to LOCK the CRV dual pump system by welding pins through the clutches in the differential and running a Freelander viscous coupler installed in the CRV driveshaft. This way is the 'poor-mans' wagon rear setup.

B-Series Weaknesses

Gears

The B-Series CR-V Transmission uses a unique 'SBXM' gearset. One of the major issues we've seen with B-Series cars is the lack of ability to shift at high RPM using the stock gearset in the CR-V transmissino. Until recently, there were no gear solutions. Now SpeedFactory has released their FWD2AWD kit which allows you to install B-Series Gearsets into the transmission make it easier than ever for SFWD guys to swap Dogboxes into CRV transmissions.

Transfer Case

The B-Series transfer case is MUCH weaker than its K-Series counterpart. When asked how much power it will hold, there have been many varying cases. Some breaking as soon as 200HP. But the generally accepted limit of the stock T-Case is 300-400HP. Drag Cartel has made their solution to the issue which alleviates the notorious broken B-Series T-Case issue by replacing the weak cast aluminum piece with a billet piece. If you don't upgrade this piece but plan on making power, be prepared to replace it over and over again.

K-Series Advantages

If you're starting a build from scratch the most effective starting point would be a K-Series platform. The K-Series transmission internals are the same as the RSX or EP3, and interchangeability requires no aftermarket support. The only true difference between the RSX/EP3 trans is the inclusion of a transfer case, an additional ring gear on the differential for the transfer case, and a different transmission mount. The CRV trans is just as strong as any other K-Series transmission.

 

Nice job. What about strut fork rework. I thought s1 built designed strut fork to clear the axles somewhere.

 

Kenny Youre a weenie :0 good post

 

With the Hub City kit, the struts are relocated behind the axle

 

"Driveshaft, Diff (Matching CRV or Wagon Set, cannot interchange)"

Does this mean you can put a crv rear diff gear in the wagon rear end? I have a wagovan I want to put my K series in but cannot find the right answer for gearing from a crv trans to the wago rear end.

 

SpeedFactories FWD2AWD is not really dog box friendly. For example you can't use a PPG Gearset with this kit and they haven't really tested any other Dog Box gearset other than the Albins. Now the Albins gearset didn't really work out for Speedfactory either which is why their AWD drag car is not using this kit and is actually on the AWD PPG gearset.

As of now if you really want a B-series 1000whp plus AWD drag car you will need a AWD billet bellhousing, billet T case and AWD PPG gearset.

"B-Series Weaknesses

Gears

The B-Series CR-V Transmission uses a unique 'SBXM' gearset. One of the major issues we've seen with B-Series cars is the lack of ability to shift at high RPM using the stock gearset in the CR-V transmissino. Until recently, there were no gear solutions. Now SpeedFactory has released their FWD2AWD kit which allows you to install B-Series Gearsets into the transmission make it easier than ever for SFWD guys to swap Dogboxes into CRV transmissions."

 

My B-series AWD set up made it to 540 whp and 430 tq before I popped the t-case and bell housing. I also took out the teeth on the counter shaft, FD ring, t-case ring gear, and t-case gear. Lasted for over a year of me abusing it too. Everyone's setup is going to be different though. My solution was going with PBE's billet aluminum bell housing and t-case. I also had all of the gears and counter shaft that broke custom made from billet steel. I'm not a big fan of the gearing in the SBXM, but for now I want to see what it will do on what I've got. I changed the FD ratio to a 4.0 and I put the LS 5th gear in. I also built the head and got new cams so that I can rev to 9200rpm. A custom gear set for the SBXM is going to run around $6500, so I'm holding off on that for now.

And an air locker for the CRV rear end has proven to be a solid alternative for locking it.

 

upon further speculation I realized you mean the driveshaft has to match its oem rear end.

I have been pondering for a while if the output of a crv k series trans would match the wagovan rear end? I dont want to burn up my viscous coupler and all the information I have researched is out of date and leads to dead ends. Hoping for some insight here.

 

Is there a solution to get full time awd without viscous coupler? Or the crv diff?
I currently have a crv b series awd tranny, and a wagon rear diff.
And i want to get a custom one piece driveshaft.
Will this f*** everything up?

 

Epic tuning I beleive did it that way and ran a very slightly different tire size front to rear. If you can find the article on their red coupe read up on it. Also I would rather have a viscous coupler. Mine locked up really well you really didn’t even notice it at all.

 

What is meant by "2 short CRV axels" for kswaps, would i not just use the rear axels? or do i need 2 left rears for example

 

Yes, it will mess everything up.

 

If you want the diff centered in the car two short axles i want to say the left rear is the shorter one double check on that

 

What driveshaft for K series 98 Integra Coupe with CRV rear diff? Element?

I know guys using the stock CRV DS on EK but the Integra coupe has a shorter wheelbase... which is closer to the Element.

 

Does anyone know the differences between the 2002-2006 CRV, 2007-2010 CRV, and 2003-2011 element rear differentials? Strengths and Weaknesses? Best RTAWD engagement? They seem to generally be the same but I cannot find any definitive answer.

 

“RT4WD EXPLAINED

The most commonly asked question is "can I just take a CRV and transplant it in". The answer is yes.”

this is exactly what I have done to my 98 civic DX. I also swapped the cr-v 5 lug spindle and hub onto my civic. But I would like to know which cv axels to use for the front since the width of the cr-v and civic are different I will need an axle with a shorter length. But I’m not sure which one. Does anyone know the answer to that?

 

A custom axle, or a 96-00 CTR. I think maybe the ITR will work too.

 

Question since the wagon van diffs are rare and the one shop that has them knows it and bends you over for them. What about using a BMW E36 M3 diff with the 2.56 gears? They has to be better options to build a fast awd civic with more rear diff options then the crv/element or wagon van. 8.8 irs from a Mustang then get gears made for 2.53

 

Hi! I am just going to build my eg hatch with k24+awd, got awd system from a wagon, that gearbox is on the other side compare to k series. K series gearbox need wagon diff upside down? Thanks!

 

Any recommendations for coil overs? I'm thinking i might have to go with a heavier spring rate in the rear due to all the added weight. If anyone who has done the swap (I'm using CRV parts and an S1 AWD kit) can let me know what you ran for coils and how they performed, would be awesome! thanks