I need to know how I can find this piece, as I cannot find any diagrams or info on where to get this piece or if it is even available. I was checking the hoses on my EM1 and saw coolant dripping from here, took the hose off and found it to be corroded to the point it needs to be replaced ASAP> Any help is greatly appreciated. Name of the part or part number. It is coming out of the heater core and into the head, so it would be a water inlet.
Also, what is the difference between the normal Civic and EM1 hoses? I have found that the normal civic's are of a smaller diameter. My car currently has a LS/Vtec build. B18B and PR3 head, and I need to replace the hoses but don't want to buy the wrong ones. Any one know the inner diameters of the EM1 hoses for the radiator/heater core? I can find plenty of guides on building the LS/Vtec but I am in need of knowing if specific pieces will fit, like the exhaust, do I need to buy different headers or longer/shorter parts?

Thank you all for any help, greatly appreciated.

 

The factory part number is 19500-PE0-000.

 

D series rad hoses are smaller diameter than B series. You really need to consider upgrading your radiator to a B series dual core one... I recommend the Koyo (but you must notch the core support for it to fit), then use the EM1 hose set.

 

Thank you very much, I was able to get the part and have it ordered.

Also, since I will be working on my car, will turn this into a build thread in case I need any assistance or ideas.

 

Thanks on the advice. Would you by any chance know the diameter of the hoses or radiator? Since I would like to first figure out what I have, hoses don't seem small diameter to me but I'm not sure what I have.
The car doesn't overheat at all, actually, it rarely even gets to 1/4 of the gauge so I got to fix this. The fan is direct and turn on when I turn the car on, I saw the fan switch in the thermo was disconnected. I haven't had time to troubleshoot this but this is my next step. Change the water inlet to stop the coolant from draining, try and rebuild the electrical cooling system so that the fan kicks in when needed and not be on all the time, and then check the thermostat to ensure its working, since I've read that AutoZone or other cheap ones won't work (I don't know what it has, but will most likely have to change to OEM). The AC/Heater won't blow hot air, which as I have read is the thermostat not opening, but as mentioned, the fan is always on so it is always "cooling". I bought some gauges which I will be installing to monitor temps but definitely redo the electrical of the cooling system and move on from there.

I need to change all the hoses as I squeeze them and you can clearly hear them crack, so I know those are gone. I wanted to buy the silicone ones, honestly mostly for looks, since I know this is not a track-only car and permeation is not god but I would mind it. But I may just stick to EPDM rubber stock, Koyo as you have suggested, but since I bought the car with an LS/Vtec build I am having a bit of trouble trying to figure out what fits and what is needed, not a stranger to Honda's as I have had many over the years, both Acura's and Honda's, however first LS/Vtec build, which wasn't done by me.
At this point I'm trying to update the cooling system to have it working as intended.

 

I think it is 28mm vs 32mm on the necks but I can't remember for sure.

You can also find a stock style replacement radiator for an EM1 or Del Sol VTEC and it will drop in without issue. I prefer the Koyo just because it's a really nice piece. Way nicer than the Mishimoto one and not even in the same zip code as the shitty generic ones that people get off of eBay. The downsides of the Koyo are that you have to notch the core support on EK Civics, you need to redrill one of the mounts on your radiator fan (honestly, this part sucks. They should have gotten the mounting right), and you may have clearance issues with your stock fan/overflow bottle and your intake, depending on what you have. The thing is THICK.

This is the one you want:

https://jhpusa.com/products/koyo-alu...vic-d-b-series

You can find it for <$200 shipped with some diligent googling.

 

Pic Updates.
Here are some pics of the car how when I bought it, it is in really rough shape but I am slowly fixing her up

 

since the motor is in relatively good shape, I started with the suspension as all the bushings are shot, so I started working on changing those to urethane, so I should be getting that done in the next 2 weeks. I already have a new radiator support to fix up the front, just need to get it painted, got new wheels and cleaned up the interior, double din Android radio and some focal components and 3 way rears, with a Rock Series digital amp hidden under the cup holders (yes, I managed to stuff it in there XD). Also had to fix the gauge cluster as the gas was not working and the trip would not reset, wanted to keep the original orange glow, however dissapointed that it does not say Si on the cluster.

I do have to ask, I know the differences between the USDM and CDM Si/SiR, but I want to know what is different in mine, since it is from Mexico. It is the SiR, seems to be spec'd CDM since it has DRL, but it does not have ABS, which is where I get confused.
I got DRL, disk brakes, cluster does not say Si, no ABS or cruise, it does have an S4C trans but don't know if it has the LSD (hope so, since it is not USDM)

Here are the wheels I got, still need to fix them up but they are on now.




And here are some pics from this morning:


I already have its stock fog lights, just need to install

 

I hava a question. I need to replace my rear wheel bearings. And since it is an Si, are they the same ones as a Civic with drum brakes? Also, the hubs it currently has on, I beleive they are from an ABS model since it has the toothed cog that the sensor reads, but the car does not have ABS, so do I need to replace ot with the sabe ABS bearing hub? Or can it take a nornal non-ABS hub? Also, does the EM1 share the same hub with any other model? ( Previous Si, any Acura?)

Also, I need to buy new motor mounts but wanted to know which ones to buy due to the LS/VTEC mod it has a B18B1 block with the B16 head, would it use the stock EM1 mounts? Or do I need different ones, say from an Integra LS? And if so, which mounts are dtock and which are different (i.e. upper driver side, lower driver side, etc.)

Thank you all for your help.

 

Any 4x100 rear disc equipped 92-00 Civic/Integra hub will work. Drum hubs are different.

 

Drums are different

 

I don't think any coupes had abs regardless of Canadian or us spec.

The heater hoses are 5/8 diameter

You can use an abs wheel hub or axle, you just need to knock the abs hub ring off before you install the hub or axle


You use the si motor mounts

 

So I have a question regarding the LS/Vtec conversion. I've noticed that Vtec doesn't engage. I have checked everything I can without opening the engine, and it seems that they left a stock oil pump. So I am looking in to upgrade those components. From what I have investigated for the parts list, I am unable to find the specific part numbers for them. I do realize is from the Teggy, but I am looking for the parts number in order to ensure I order the correct parts. Can any one please help provide them for the below parts, and any other missing parts to upgrade the stock?

GSR Timing belt kit --- (GSR timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt adjuster base, timing belt spring adjuster)
Water pump
GSR Oil pump

Also, changing this, isn't better or required to change the oil baffle due to the GSR oil pump? As well, if I want to add a girdle, what do I need to change/upgrade? If I recall, GSR oil pan and oil pickup, GSR main bolts and dowels correct?
Thank you very much guys

 

What year is your B18B block and how are you feeding the VTEC circuit in the cylinder head ?

 

I bought the car as is with the conversion. I know its a B18B1, anyway i could know the year? Currently its T'd off the oil sensor but I already bought a sandwich plate to do it correctly. I'm trying to iron out all the kinks. I may not be an expert on the conversion but i have read the threads i could find and am more than confortable working on the engine. I'm slowly fixing her up.

 

What is the first digit (on left) of the seven digit number below the B18B1 stamp ?

 

Hey, sorry for the late reply as I have had much work and working on the car n the weekends.
Stamp is 4300110, which, I think is a 97? Based of a post i read. Is there any way to know what car its off?

 

Yes, you are correct... it is a 1997 block. The only way to know where it came from for sure is the VIN plate located at the bottom edge of the block just above the oil pan.

 

All B series oil pumps are the same now. There is no specific gsr/ITR/LS/whatever pump. If you don’t have reason to believe there is an issue with your current one I would recommend leaving it alone, at least until you tear the whole engine down for a rebuild. The original ones a pretty foolproof.

 

While all pumps are the same, as I understand their output pressures are not, and an LS pump may not be strong enough to supply enough oil flow to the VTEC solenoid on an LS/Vtec conversion, but please correct me if I am wrong so that I can skip to the next step. This also leads to the spring mod for them to up their pressure. So since my VTEC isn't engaging, and I don't know all the parts that were used in the conversion, I want to rule out other issues, one of them being the oil pump, and making sure it is able to supply the necessary pressure for the solenoid engagement.

Regarding the VIN on the block, I'll make sure to take a look at that, thank you very much for the tip.

 

This may be true for older oil pumps. OBD2 b series all carried the PR3 pump which has superseded to the P72. All the same. You have a 97 block so you should be good.

 

By any chance, is there a stamping or what I can check if it indeed is a P72? I just want to double check since the conversion was done by a previous owner, and I don't know the mechanic that did it, he did a good job, damn engine is pristine and working awesome, but, I just want to double check and make sure. Better safe than sorry. So due to not knowing any of the history, I don't even know if the block came complete of another car, maybe they only acquired the block and reused older parts, I don't really know.
I'll also be needing to check the VTEC solenoid. Any advices here or simply follow the manual on this one?

 

If yours looks like the top one you are definitely good to go.

 

Alright so I just check and have the top oil pump, so nonproblems there.
I'm checking my vtec noid and its a single wire, so where does the ecu take the oil pressure from? Is it the one on top of the oil filter?

Also any one know from what car/year/model are these wheels?

Their 14's

Also any one know which mounts are these? I want to be sure before i buy, so these should be 2 bolt mounts correct?



And as usual guys, thank you very much for all the help

 

Anyone?