this is making me crazy.
I started getting A check engine light several weeks back and then the car started stalling after it warmed up. I checked the engine code and got a steady light. I installed a new ecu and if anything it got worse. After installing the new ecu it would only run for a few seconds and then die. I checked the codes again and got 2 different codes I didn't get before, 9 and 15 One said the cyl sensor in the dizzy was bad, the other said ign problem. After doing a lot of research, i replaced the alt. since the brushes were quite worn and the armature was worn as well. I also in installed a new dizzy. No love. It would still run for a few seconds, then die. Just for giggles, I put the old ecu back in then it would at least run until it warmed up. Today i pulled the cat. thinking maybe it was plugging up once it warmed up, but it seems ok. I do need a new exhaust system which I bought and will install tomorrow. The engine code, like before, is steady on, no flashing with the old ecu back in the car.

Car is a 95 accord 2.2 vtec 5 speed.

Did i need to program the new ecu or something?
Autozone said it was good to go, but now I am not so sure. When I got the nrw ecu, it was just thrown into a box, no packaging, paper, bubble wrap, or anything, so I figured the new ecu was toast.

Help please!!
I was a vw audi mech years ago, and before that, I was a jet engine mech in the marines back in the 70's so I'm not completely inept, I just don't know much about newer, computerized cars..
Today I installed a new exhaust system and so far it seems to be working ok, thought I didn't see any obvious problems with the cat. or any other parts of the system...

Also, I ordered a new main relay switch from amazon, just in case.

 

What code are you getting with your old ecu? You don't need to program the ecu for 95 accord it should be a simple swap. Did you swap your main relay yet? I'm having stalling problems as well with a 96 accord and changing ecu didn't help but I'm not getting any codes either. I'm wondering if it might be main relay or ignition switch.

 

I got a new main relay from amazon and the car would stop running as soon as i released the key. I put the old relay back in after re soldering all the points and then at least it would run the same ad it did before installing the replacment relay. That relay is going back...
I have been driving the car for the last several days and so far it hasn't stalled but the check engine light still comes on now and again.
Tomarrow I'm going to see if there are any saved codes in the ecu. I left the battery unhooked over night last night to clear any codes and then drove the car today to see if the check engine light would come on again, it did, so tlany codes should be "fresh".

I'll post what info I get tomarrow.

 

Recheck all connection and verify continuity.
A solid MIL(not when jumping the SCS connector) with no codes is indicative of a fault in the wiring, not necessarily the ECU issue.
Start backprobing sensors. A faulty sensor can cause an incorrect reading that won't always trip a code.

If there was something that happened, be it a repair or incident with the vehicle prior to this problem, go back to that original problem. Even something that seems innocent. Start there.