PLEASE scroll to bottom of thread. NEW ISSUES!!!



I have a 1997 honda civic lx that im almost done swapping out the AT for the MT. d16y7 motor.
I already have MT up and axles back in place but i still need to place the flywheel dust cover on.
It doesn't seem to want to go in with out removing the the driver side axle.
Do i really have to remove axle to slide it in place???

 

I've never had to remove an axle to get in place on the EG's. It is a finagle fight to get it up as well and undoing two oil pan nuts and retorquing to button everything back up.

It seems like it doesn't fit but with twisting, pushing and sliding you can get it around the axle gap, barely.

 

No

 

Ok thx ill take another swing at it,
Do i really have to undo 2 oil pan nuts on the EK? Do those 2 top 90 degress bends slide inbetween the oil pan?
I dont have the 2 separate engine stiffeners like the EG. It's one big pieces on mine for both sides.

I know that ^ pieces goes on after.

If anyone has a Picture of how it looks installed it would help.
I dont know why this is so hard for me.

 

LOL thx TomCat i figured it out.
Yes i had to just twist and push the thing in and i didn't have to remove anything. Not even any oil pan nuts.
There is no way to install it wrong right? If it lays flat and the holes are lines up im good !?
Only worried b/c ive seen other people say you have to remove oil pan nuts but maybe that is only the EG's not the EK

 

I've been swapping out my AT for the MT on my 1997 honda civic lx. I have everything almost done but the engine stiffener that i have is for the automatic trans and i need the Manual trans one. They both look pretty similar

I was told that i don't really need this part is that true? Flywheel cover is on so no teeth are exposed or anything.
I dont feel right leaving anything off but multiply people told me i dont need it and the issues is i dont have one and it's a discontinued part.
I'm so close to being done with Swap i just want to drive my car again.

 

Looking at your picture, your's doesn't have the holes on the 90 bend part the EG ones do. So you don't have to undo oil pan nuts.

The EG has two holes on the 90 degree that slides onto oil pan studs.

EK is different than EG.

Also, only the Si of the 92-95 has the engine stiffeners here in Canada. The other trims do not use those braces between the block and transmission.

 

You CAN drive the car without it... I suggest a "middle ground" and drive the car while you are looking for a manual bracket. Many people have run for years without them... but that isn't a PROPER install. Honda put it there for a reason. You do not need a new one... one from a salvage yard will do the job just fine. Make sure you get all of the bolts that hold it to the block and transmission.

 

If that is the case ill probably try and find one, car is still up on jack stands anyways. Still have to cut off the shied from the AT cable and drill the new holes for shifter.

 

Have a 1997 Honda civic LX d16y7 that im converting from AT to MT. Have peddles and everything else installed but i cant seem to find the clutch pedal position switch wires.
Does my harness have those wires hidden in some place or do i have to do some sorta of customs wires? Just using the original harness didn't switch anything like that out.

 

Your firewall harness won't have it because its configured for an automatic. You'll have to run those wires to the auto shifter harness, get a relay and build a starter cut relay and run the wire to cancel cruise control.

 

Yep you can pull all this from a junked MT version of same.

 

Do I need to replace the whole harness with the MT one or are you saying cut those 2 wires off the MT harness and add to mine?
I'm pretty bad when it comes to wiring

 

So the pedal won't have things plugged into it I have to make a dummy system off the pedal. Auto shifter harness is in the middle normally

 

Just go to a junkyard and pull those connectors from another car.

 

Get the connectors and the switch. You'll have to run your own wires.

 

I have a check engine light on for DTC P1382 'Cylinder Position No Signal' after a automatic -> manual swap on a 97 OBD2A Civic LX D16Y7. I also swapped to the manual 'P2E' stock ECU that came stock in the manual Civic D16Y7s

I have tried the 'CKF Trick' to no avail after reading that it may solve this DTC.

I did not have any DTC/CELs before swap. The idle is strong, without fluctuation. Cold idle seems to work fine.

Does anyone have any clue what this problem might be before I start going through the service manual diagnostic charts with a multimeter?

 

The CYP is in the distributor... not sure why you tried the "CKF Trick". Did you swap distributors or change the wiring going to the dizzy ?

 

Tried the CKF trick heard it fixes specific code P1382.
Same Distributor same wiring harness.
Only stuff changed during swap was the trans, the mounts required, peddles. pretty much the stuff you HAVE to do.
Tested distributor and it reads fine.
Also took the car around the block and runs ok especially with have code P1382.
Everyone else i see with the same code Car doesn't run or start.

 

Try running the old auto ECU again. Of course it's going to throw transmission codes, but if it doesn't throw P1382 you know that there is something wrong with the new manual ECU.

CKF trick is entirely unnecessary if you have an OBDII engine with a CKF sensor fitted.

 

Thx helped and saved me tons of time. seems that the manual ECU is bad ill grab another one and try it out. Only codes with automatic were obvious trans codes and idle was better. IM PRETTY EXCITED NOW ... I went out and drove stick for the first time today it went pretty bad but got better even after 5 mins.

I've been doing this swap over the past 2-4 weeks...im slow But this was the last step im so happy lol.

 

I have a 1997 honda civic lx d16y7 just got done doing AT to MT swap and of course now i have been looking for leaks.
Only leak i see is coming from the shift rod seal part number: 91215-PL3-005.
Seems like an easy fix my only question is do i have to drain the transmission to do so. I just filled it 2 days ago would like to not have to drain transmission.
Do I 100% have to drain oil to do? Will the oil just rush out super fast?Can i cheat and jack the the car up a weird way or anything?

 

I have merged all your threads for this car into this thread. Please use this thread for each new challenge you come across for this car instead of creating a new thread every time you have a question for this specific car.

Thank you.

 

EVAP code P0453,P0450 i got both of these codes. Can these codes be caused by changing the air intake assuming the air intake i installed in leaking?
Gas Cap is on and everything is plugged in.

 

Also got code P0133 but thinking if i have a bad enough of a EVAP leak from the codes P0453,P0450 that it might trigger the other code to happen. Also double checked the air intake it's all pretty tight and nothing obviously lose.
Car runs ok but it will kinda like putter sometimes where I'm accelerating, where i keep the same amount of throttle the whole time but ill start losing a few rpm for a few secs like i have no throttle then it like pops in and the throttle feel is back.