F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
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From: Florida
F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
I have a 94 Honda Accord obd1 that I’m swapping a F20b into.
I need help with finding out what I need to splice between the two harnesses. I have looked all over and only find answers that say “you will need to do some splicing”. But no one say what or where.
i have a distributor conversion harness as well as injector conversion harness so those issues have been handled. Also purchased a PCB F20b iacv adapter plate so I can run a 2 wire iacv. I appreciate any info that can help. The last thing I want to do is have to bring it to a shop and get charged an arm and leg for something I’m sure I can do myself with the help of the car community.
I need help with finding out what I need to splice between the two harnesses. I have looked all over and only find answers that say “you will need to do some splicing”. But no one say what or where.
i have a distributor conversion harness as well as injector conversion harness so those issues have been handled. Also purchased a PCB F20b iacv adapter plate so I can run a 2 wire iacv. I appreciate any info that can help. The last thing I want to do is have to bring it to a shop and get charged an arm and leg for something I’m sure I can do myself with the help of the car community.
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Re: F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
You don't really need to do any splicing between the two harnesses. You just use the F22 harness and add VTEC if required. You will have to extend a few wires for the IAT sensor and few others. Use your original OBD1 alternator off of the F22 and buy an OBD1 H22 distributor that matches your harness(external or internal coil, internal for EX models, external for DX/LX) and you can reuse your factory harness/coil with no dramas. No need for a distributor conversion harness if you use the correct distributor. For injectors you can use the conversion harness(es) you have but you will need to remove the injector resistor box and connect all the wires from that together. The single wire for the oil pressure sending unit will need to be extended as well.
If you have the engine out of the car it's easy enough to do. Just take the F22 harness and start connecting it to the F20B, one sensor at a time. You can get a good idea of what needs to be extended or moved. For wires that need to be extended I highly recommend doing a proper soldered connection with heat shrink tubing and then wire loom/electrical tape on top of that. Try to make sure no wires have sharp bends or else the old factory insulation will eventually come apart and wires will become bare and start corroding internally.
For the IABs you have a few options. If you want them to work like stock you will need a P72 chipped ECU or equivalent that has provisions for IAB control. This is typically not done because you also need a good condition black box that comes under the intake manifold and another solenoid, on top of the specific ECU combo. The two options aside from that are either 1.)hook the actuator up to a vacuum source and the IABs will simply open depending on throttle position with WOT being fully opened or 2.) buy a spacer that deletes them entirely. F20B is a bit of a torqueless thing naturally aspirated so I wouldn't really recommend deleting them entirely on a street car.
I hope you have a tunable ECU solution available and intend to get the car tuned immediately once the swap is done. You will need to swap pins A6 and A11 at the ecu plugs when you install your chipped ECU.
If you have the engine out of the car it's easy enough to do. Just take the F22 harness and start connecting it to the F20B, one sensor at a time. You can get a good idea of what needs to be extended or moved. For wires that need to be extended I highly recommend doing a proper soldered connection with heat shrink tubing and then wire loom/electrical tape on top of that. Try to make sure no wires have sharp bends or else the old factory insulation will eventually come apart and wires will become bare and start corroding internally.
For the IABs you have a few options. If you want them to work like stock you will need a P72 chipped ECU or equivalent that has provisions for IAB control. This is typically not done because you also need a good condition black box that comes under the intake manifold and another solenoid, on top of the specific ECU combo. The two options aside from that are either 1.)hook the actuator up to a vacuum source and the IABs will simply open depending on throttle position with WOT being fully opened or 2.) buy a spacer that deletes them entirely. F20B is a bit of a torqueless thing naturally aspirated so I wouldn't really recommend deleting them entirely on a street car.
I hope you have a tunable ECU solution available and intend to get the car tuned immediately once the swap is done. You will need to swap pins A6 and A11 at the ecu plugs when you install your chipped ECU.
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Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 9
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From: Florida
Re: F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
You don't really need to do any splicing between the two harnesses. You just use the F22 harness and add VTEC if required. You will have to extend a few wires for the IAT sensor and few others. Use your original OBD1 alternator off of the F22 and buy an OBD1 H22 distributor that matches your harness(external or internal coil, internal for EX models, external for DX/LX) and you can reuse your factory harness/coil with no dramas. No need for a distributor conversion harness if you use the correct distributor. For injectors you can use the conversion harness(es) you have but you will need to remove the injector resistor box and connect all the wires from that together. The single wire for the oil pressure sending unit will need to be extended as well.
If you have the engine out of the car it's easy enough to do. Just take the F22 harness and start connecting it to the F20B, one sensor at a time. You can get a good idea of what needs to be extended or moved. For wires that need to be extended I highly recommend doing a proper soldered connection with heat shrink tubing and then wire loom/electrical tape on top of that. Try to make sure no wires have sharp bends or else the old factory insulation will eventually come apart and wires will become bare and start corroding internally.
For the IABs you have a few options. If you want them to work like stock you will need a P72 chipped ECU or equivalent that has provisions for IAB control. This is typically not done because you also need a good condition black box that comes under the intake manifold and another solenoid, on top of the specific ECU combo. The two options aside from that are either 1.)hook the actuator up to a vacuum source and the IABs will simply open depending on throttle position with WOT being fully opened or 2.) buy a spacer that deletes them entirely. F20B is a bit of a torqueless thing naturally aspirated so I wouldn't really recommend deleting them entirely on a street car.
I hope you have a tunable ECU solution available and intend to get the car tuned immediately once the swap is done. You will need to swap pins A6 and A11 at the ecu plugs when you install your chipped ECU.
If you have the engine out of the car it's easy enough to do. Just take the F22 harness and start connecting it to the F20B, one sensor at a time. You can get a good idea of what needs to be extended or moved. For wires that need to be extended I highly recommend doing a proper soldered connection with heat shrink tubing and then wire loom/electrical tape on top of that. Try to make sure no wires have sharp bends or else the old factory insulation will eventually come apart and wires will become bare and start corroding internally.
For the IABs you have a few options. If you want them to work like stock you will need a P72 chipped ECU or equivalent that has provisions for IAB control. This is typically not done because you also need a good condition black box that comes under the intake manifold and another solenoid, on top of the specific ECU combo. The two options aside from that are either 1.)hook the actuator up to a vacuum source and the IABs will simply open depending on throttle position with WOT being fully opened or 2.) buy a spacer that deletes them entirely. F20B is a bit of a torqueless thing naturally aspirated so I wouldn't really recommend deleting them entirely on a street car.
I hope you have a tunable ECU solution available and intend to get the car tuned immediately once the swap is done. You will need to swap pins A6 and A11 at the ecu plugs when you install your chipped ECU.
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Re: F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
I have a 1994 accord that has the f20b in it and it does not want to rev past 5750 rpms. The ecu i have is good to 7600 but i cant seem to figure out how to get it tol rev. Any ideas as to what it could be? Can the VSS cause that problem?
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From: Florida
Re: F20b with F22b engine harness HELP!!!!
Update Update:
I finally have the F20b running in my 94 accord. I need to find some headers because the stock ones don’t line up with the dc sports second half of the headers that were on my f22b1. Also I need to take the tps off of the f22b1 and put it in the F20b since I broke it during the swap. It took some serious wire diagnostics to get the engine to start because it would crank but no fire. But that issue is taken care of. Currently the car is running with open headers and won’t rev past 3k. But I’m assuming that it’s because it still has the f22b1 computer. I am going to order hondata s300 and chip the p28 that I purchased and that should solve the issue.
All I need to do now is check all the hoses. Block off then ones I don’t need. Antifreeze for the radiator and purge the system. Ow Question!!! What’s the easiest way to bleed the clutch??? because I had to open the line to get the slave cylinder see back onto the transmission.
I finally have the F20b running in my 94 accord. I need to find some headers because the stock ones don’t line up with the dc sports second half of the headers that were on my f22b1. Also I need to take the tps off of the f22b1 and put it in the F20b since I broke it during the swap. It took some serious wire diagnostics to get the engine to start because it would crank but no fire. But that issue is taken care of. Currently the car is running with open headers and won’t rev past 3k. But I’m assuming that it’s because it still has the f22b1 computer. I am going to order hondata s300 and chip the p28 that I purchased and that should solve the issue.
All I need to do now is check all the hoses. Block off then ones I don’t need. Antifreeze for the radiator and purge the system. Ow Question!!! What’s the easiest way to bleed the clutch??? because I had to open the line to get the slave cylinder see back onto the transmission.
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