Getting ready to try my first timing change and one thing Ive been told is "to Mark the belt on the camshaft if I ever take it off"
So Do I put the new one and old one side by side and mark it where it should be?
Or is it as easy as I can cut the belt, and just make sure the camshaft is at TDC and the Crankshaft is at tdc..than I simply make sure I put the belt on without moving out of TDC on both cam and crank, YES?

Because a friend who watches alot of youtube videos but is learning like I am is trying to say its too difficult to do myself, and I should pay someone hundreds of dollars to do it.
But isnt it as simple as putting both and keeping both cam and crank at TDC?

He said theres different types of TDC and I could mess up the camshaft.
But if you put the Camshaft where UP is up and the two lines on the camshaft level out on each side (with the UP on top) than you cant go wrong, can you.
He said theres multiple lines that have to match up...
but TDC is TDC isnt it?

So hes filling my mind with doubt..but In the back of my mind it makes sense what I think.
Cam - TOP and - - dashes lined up
Crank has dashes
and thats it yes?

Just have to make sure when I do anything I dont move a tooth - but keeping an eye on those tick marks should be enough right?
Any help is greatly appreciated

 

Couple comments:
One: Get yourself a service manual (or Chilton's) and follow those instructions carefully. If you do what they say and are careful, you will install the timing belt and the balancer belt correctly. Something the service manual does not say - remove your spark plugs. You are going to have to turn the motor over by hand - it will be a lot easier if you remove the plugs.

Second: The crankshaft bolt can be hard to get off if you don't have the right tools. One way to get it off is to use a Mega-Socket (or whatever they are called) and a really powerful impact wrench. It is a really fat socket - I have seen two videos with the guys using the Mega-Socket. If you don't have the socket or a really powerful impact wrench, then you will need to take it off by hand. How to do this? Go get a Honda Crankshaft Holding tool, you will need this; you can buy one (can be had for $20-25 if you shop around), or use O'Reilly Auto parts tool loaner program since this is a one-time job. You need this tool to keep the motor from turning while you muscle the crankshaft bolt off. You will need a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar - good quality ones. Mount the Holding tool with the ratchet or breaker bar attached, to the crankshaft. Brace or support somehow the ratchet or breaker bar so it won't move (turn) while you crank on the bolt.

Then there are a couple of ways to remove the bolt - the easiest, IMO, is get an 18" (minimum) extender for a 1/2" socket, a good breaker bar, perhaps get a 2-3 foot length of pipe (to put on the breaker bar for leverage), and a car jack. Set the car jack about where the tire would go, rest the 18" extender on it with the socket on the crankshaft bolt, adjust the jack to the proper height, attach the breaker bar (or breaker bar with pipe) onto the extender, and give it a good push or pull and the bolt will come off.

 

I might add ... if you are going to go through the trouble of taking everything apart to do the timing belt job, replace the water pump (and its gasket), the three engine seals, and the gasket under the gear assembly that is under the water pump, and get and install the retaining clip that goes over the balancer shaft seal, while you are in there. The cost for these parts is moderate. Though it is extra work, this will give you some good insurance against a water leak and against oil leaks. The retaining clip was mentioned in a Honda Service Bulletin (I have been told), and is available at NAPA, perhaps other parts stores - it will keep the seal from popping out and you losing your engine oil while you are on a vacation somewhere.

p.s. I am writing these comments based on a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L engine. So your '91 could be different.

 

That's the gist of it.
Just verify that the engine is at #1 TDC with the camshaft in the 'UP' position and that the balance shafts are also in the correct orientation.
Don't rely on someone else's marks. I've encountered at least three previously done belt jobs on various makes where the previous mechanic marked everything, but did not verify that the belts and cogs were timed correctly.
Nope.
Cutting the belt gets it off, it does not teach you how to get it off and in turn how to install the new belt and components.
If you don't have the FSM, check the Accord FAQ at the top of the page on how to replace the timing belt.
True you could pay someone, but the job is fairly straight forward(Hondas are Legos), and after the fact you would have the tools and knowledge to do the belt yourself again or another vehicles timing belt.
The main timing belt is fairly easy and straight forward.
Hardest part of the whole process is loosening/tightening the crankshaft bolt.
He may be referring to the balance shafts belt. This can be tricky on your first timing belt change as the weighted balance shafts will want to rotate on their own.
It's not an engine killer, but it can be frustrating if the balance shaft is off a tooth and may create a minor vibration during revving.
#1 TDC is #1 TDC, but you need to verify that it is indeed #1 TDC.
For every 360° the camshaft spins, the crankshaft has to rotate twice or 720°.
It's a four stroke engine.
This can sometimes be confusing.
But as long as the camshaft is in the 'UP' position and the crank is lined up at TDC with the marks between the crank sprocket and oil pump housing, you should be good.

Yes.
It's the rear(firewall side) balance shaft that will be the trickiest. It has several marks that are needed for correct installation. The fool proof way is the correct, or similar, rear balance shaft alignment tool.

Look over the TB change how to in the FAQ at the top of the forum. It has pictures and various comments from the membership on tips/tricks on making your change easier.