Automatic 99 Civic LX with 173k on the clock. Loses coolant, no milkshake in oil. Misses on cylinder 1, injectors test OK, spark tests OK, seems to lack compression by the sound it makes, I havent tested it yet. Plug wires are in correct order and has no issues with starting or running, except the miss. No flashing CEL, just p0301.

I'm looking at headgasket, except the plugs werent "washed" for any cylinder indicating burning coolant. All plugs read the same and needed replaced, upon replacement the car wants to die at a stop, gets horrible mileage (as it did before), and the miss is noticeable. So my next guess is a burnt valve?

Car doesnt seem to have an appreciable loss of power except between idle and around 1500RPM. Doesn't overheat either.


More info will follow as it comes to me and I troubleshoot some more, but for now I'd like opinions.

 

Perform a compression and leak down test and report back. I'm leaning towards blown HG. Early stages of a blown HG can have only small amounts of coolant being sucked into the cylinder, so you would not see the coolant/oil mixing. Poor running, especially at startup, and rusty/pitted looking spark plug ground electrode are the telltale sign. A burnt valve would have a power loss across the entire range.

 

How about a bad block? What would be the symptoms? Really can't wrap my head around this. Haven't had the chance to do a compression test. The car starts and drives ok. Just misses on that cylinder and gets poor mileage.

 

What is the lash? My b20 crv had misfire in cyl 1 due to to tight of valve lash in one of the exhaust valves.

 

only way if its a bad short block is if you allowed it to overheat and cracked a wall that allowed oil and coolant to mix and combine captain planet.

 

With these powers combined... I am... Captain Planet!



So I finally popped the upper timing cover off and found a loose timing belt. Thanks everyone.

 

Stupid question inbound, which marks do I use? theres a painted one and 2 notched marks

 

I have another quick question. On some cars I can use a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt, crank the engine over (without plugs) and loosen the bolt. Is this trick achievable with the 99 LX? Thanks all.

 

how will you keep the bolt that holds crank pulley to the crank from rotating?

 

Either a cheater pipe hitting the ground or maybe somewhere on the car. The car has to be low enough to do it, provided the engine turns the correct way to loosen it.

 

This won't work since the engine turns counterclockwise.

 

Thanks all I needed to know.

 

Anyone have a trick to remove the crank pulley? I'm using a chain wrapped around the pulley and motor mount with a screwdriver in the pulley to hold the chain. Also blasting it with PB Blaster and a torch before I attempt it. Might hit it with a hammer too. Anyone have any secret tricks?

 

If you have access to an air compressor, a Lisle weighted socket and an air impact gun will do the trick. If you don't have access to an air compressor, use a crank pulley holding tool...you can buy one or "rent free" from most auto parts stores.

 

I have the tool for removing the bolt, except everytime I go to torque on it to get it loose, it likes to pop out of the socket where it sits. Even when its hitting the ground it twists off when I go to loosen it.

 

You need something to keep the crank from spinning to loosen a bolt that has over 100 lbs of holding strength

 

Clearly. I have the tool recommended for it but it likes to slip out from where it sits when. I start cranking on the bolt itself. Might just rtv it in there just so it will sit still.