I posted that my sons car does not start sometimes , well it did it today and I was home . So when I tried to start the car I noticed that the green key light was not coming on . I did a bit of searching and tried a few things , moved the steering wheel up and down and the light came on , and the car started . What I would like to know is , is where to start as in changing out what ? I'm at a loss here , trying to figure out where to start as in could it be a key , immobilizer unit , I don't know . If anyone knows or has some advice I would really appreciate it .

 

Probably the wire connector at the immobilizer ring(around the ignition switch) is a bad/loose connection.
Take the column cowling off and inspect the connector and wiring harness, should be a four or five pin(wire) connector.
If the car has an aftermarket alarm installed verify that the immobilizer system was not tapped into the pigtail of the immobilizer.

 

My 2002 was doing the same thing for months - i tried many different things - unhooked battery then re hooked and would start, sometimes just wait 10 minutes and retry, sometimes lock and unlock with key and wait for theft system to engage unlock and start, but now my light will not come on at all, I removed the column cover and visually inspected the key reader ring but cannot see any thing wrong all wires intact, plug is secure. Can you tell me if I replace the key reader will I have to reprogram the keys?

 

The Immobilizer Receiver unit on the steering column for 6th gen Accords does not require any reprogramming after replacement.

 

Not to sound sarcastic or stupid but is my 2002 Accord EX Coupe with the 3.0 Vtech engine 6th generation?
Thanks

 

Yes.

 

MAD MIKE pretty much nailed it. You have a poor electrical connection in the immobilizer system. This could be at a connector, a ground terminal or damage to wires insulation somewhere along its length.
To check @ the ignition switch, remove the black plastic column cover by coming in from below and using a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws (there should be 4 or so). The screws are recessed quite a bit so be sure to carefully get the screwdriver seated in the head of each screw, it takes some finagling.
Once you get the screws out, the upper half and lower half of the column cover can be un-snapped from one another and the covers removed. Then take a look at the wiring that is plugged into the ignition switch & the immobilizer control unit-receiver. I believe the wiring harness connector your looking for is of the green plastic variety.
Your looking for wires that are part way out or loose in their plastic connectors, corrosion or any damage.
You can try turning the ignition switch to "ON" and playing with the wires, while keeping an eye on the "Immobilizer" light on the dash, see if it changes with certain wires being moved.




This issue can also be caused by:

• A blown fuse
• A faulty immobilzer system unit-receiver
• Faulty PGM-FI main relay
• Faulty parking brake switch or a poor body ground of the parking brake switch
• Faulty brake fluid level switch
• Faulty brake indicator light.

 

How can these cause the issue?

 

Ok For an update, I have had this problem intermittent for probably 3+ years, I think the first time it happened the car wouldn't start at a neighbors and I cranked until the battery died(did not take long, old battery) The car was locked in park so couldn't move it so I disconnected battery reconnected and jumped started it and it fired right up, at that point in time I was not looking for green key. It was then that it started doing this one time would start the next time not - wait -unhook - cuss - retry it would start. 6 months or so Battery died alternator crapped out replaced both and everything seemed fine. About a year ago started having the intermittent start problem again that is when i joined here and started searching forums and found numerous things about green key continuous flashing and immobilizer, so I started checking for that but my problem was different as there was NO green key showing, I would unhook battery wait 10 or so hook it back up and viola green key would flash for 2 secs and car would start. I have not been driving it as not wanting to get stranded somewhere so just sitting in my driveway trying to get this figured out, last couple of months car would turn over great but no key no start. Yesterday I posted the question above about key reader, today I try to start to no avail battery seems plenty strong as car would crank right over and keep cranking so I decide maybe I should unhook and hook up and try again but no start then i decide to charge battery and after 5 hours at 10 amp finally full charge re hook battery put key in and boom green light and fire!!! Can it be as simple as something which i will have to find is drawing from the battery or possible weak ground and not putting out enough amp/volt to everything?

I am taking it to a friend that can check the battery/ alternator, wires and connectors/ contacts for shorts or bad ground I will print off this post so we can check the wiring harnes on steering column. I will try to update findings.

Thanks all

 

If it's not the immobilizer key area to replace, you could simply put in a immobilizer bypass and be done with it.


Here's one for sale

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Immo-Emulat...gAAOSw049e15Ur

 

Ok still trying to figure this out. Can't find schematics or wire diagram to show me exactly what fuse # 12 under the hood, 40 amp back up, acc controls. Can't find any threads in here that deals with just the 40 amp fuse either. It has a very large parasitic draw going through it around 9.75 volts. I have not replaced the immobilizer reader as the car seems to start up fine as long as it has a fully charged battery, I did test my alternator and everything works fine on it I didn't write the numbers down but it was charging at 14.6 to 14.75 at idle and at 2000 rpms. I did test for a possible bad diode and I did get a very low reading of .0032 ac so not sure but don't think it is bad. It is relatively new replaced 3/2018 Battery new 6/2018 car has not seen much road during this. So back to the #12 - 40 amp fuse - back up, acc. I can pull the fuse and the car will start and run, no green key, no immobilizer I presume, no radio, no clock, no power locks, no interior courtesy lights or dome, the check engine light comes on with code P0560, generic, System voltage. Everything else seem fine. Now prior to just pulling the 40 amp fuse I did pull every other fuse in all 3 fuse boxes individually to see if draw would stop with no luck. Anything to do with electric is absolutely Greek to me and I have research and watch video after video and read and still have to get others to help me run thru the different trails. What direction do I go from here? I was thinking maybe the main relay but have kinda ruled that out due to the car starting every time so far with the fuse pulled and it seems to start every time with the fuse connected as long as I haven't let it sit too long and the battery has had draw on it. The battery still has plenty of crank in it when I do get the no start so it has to be a link that is connected to some relay that the draw won't let it close? I need to find the exact culprit of the draw and see if disconnecting it works or just run without the back up, acc fuse and check engine light!

 

I too have the intermittent immobilizer problem in my 2002 Accord. Sometimes I get the green key light and the car starts and other times no light, engine cranks, won’t start, won’t shift out of park and doors won’t unlock electrically. Obviously a problem with the immobilizer. I’ve read numerous threads on this forum and some say it has nothing to do with jump starting or battery issues. Some say to check the wiring in the steering for a loose wire near the ignition.

My immobilizer issue has evolved from occasional no start to frequent. I’ve noticed now that when it’s hot outside the car won’t start and when the day cools off at night or I try early morning, the green key light returns and the car starts. My guess is an electrical component associated with the immobilizer is getting warm, expanding and shorting out.
Does anyone have an idea which part might be the culprit? Did anyone solve the intermittent no green key, no start problem?
thanks!
Update - my issue was resolved. I gave up trying to find the problem and took it to Honda. They replaced the main relay under the hood (p/n: 39400-S84-003). Honda service said this is a common problem and they went right to it. “The solder point changing with temperature and not contacting correctly causing vehicle not to start sometimes due to weather” (diagnostic report). Cost me $250 parts and labor.
Read my symptoms above and see if you have the same issue. The relay may fix yours also. Good luck!

 

My 99 Accord has the same problem. I bump right in front of steering wheel over top of the ignition and the green key light comes on every time

 

It was not a problem with ignition but a sorta big plastic piece directly in front of steering wheel. It's coming from there.Havent bothered trying to fix yet,still just bumping it with my fist

 

That sounds like a similar issue I have.
I have a 99 accord v6. It will not start at all unless I give it a shot of starting fluid which is not good for it.
Code says bad IAC. Changed that and the fuel pump and the PGMI. Still will not start on it's own.
Any suggestions?