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Replaced cooling fan relay. Replaced cooling and condenser fan fuses. Replaced thermoswitch on thermostat. Replaced ect under distributor. Replaced fan switch on water outlet pipe. Jumper wired relay box, both fans came on. Hooked fan direct to battery, and it spun right up. Car does not overheat. A/C blows ice cold. A/C on makes passenger side fan run immediately. Why does driver side fan never kick on?
Is the operating temperature hot on the dash gauge?
What kind of thermoswitch is installed? There are some on the market that don't match Honda specs for the temperature it will ground the fan and make it run.
The driver's side fan is the A/C condenser fan. Based on what you described, it sounds like there may be an open (break) on the ground wires going to the Condenser Fan Relay.
It should come on if the A/C is on, or if the coolant temperature reaches ~ 194 degrees at Thermo-switch A (fan switch at thermostat housing).
With the A/C turned on, the ECM will send a ground to the condenser fan relay coil to close the relay contact and provide power to the A/C condenser fan.
If the coolant temperature at Fan Switch A reaches ~ 194 degrees, it will send a ground to the condenser fan relay coil to close the relay contact and provide power to the A/C condenser fan.
Take a look at the wiring at Connector 309. Ground wires from both ECM and Fan Switch run through that connector to the condenser fan relay.
Also take a look at the blue ground wires going to the connector for the condenser fan relay.
Unplug the connector to Fan Switch A, jump it with a small paper clip or wire. With the ignition in the ON position (car not running), does both fans run? If only the radiator fan runs and not the condenser fan, then ground is not getting to the condenser fan relay.
Is the operating temperature hot on the dash gauge?
What kind of thermoswitch is installed? There are some on the market that don't match Honda specs for the temperature it will ground the fan and make it run.
Temp gauge in dash gets almost to half before passenger side fan kicks on so doesn't appear any overheating. Thermoswitch was replaced with factory Honda part.
The driver's side fan is the A/C condenser fan. Based on what you described, it sounds like there may be an open (break) on the ground wires going to the Condenser Fan Relay.
It should come on if the A/C is on, or if the coolant temperature reaches ~ 194 degrees at Thermo-switch A (fan switch at thermostat housing).
Connector 309 under power steering looks ok. Jumpered fan switch a, no power to driver side fan. Can I just run a wire from relay box to fan? Or is that too easy of thinking?
With the A/C turned on, the ECM will send a ground to the condenser fan relay coil to close the relay contact and provide power to the A/C condenser fan.
If the coolant temperature at Fan Switch A reaches ~ 194 degrees, it will send a ground to the condenser fan relay coil to close the relay contact and provide power to the A/C condenser fan.
Take a look at the wiring at Connector 309. Ground wires from both ECM and Fan Switch run through that connector to the condenser fan relay.
Also take a look at the blue ground wires going to the connector for the condenser fan relay.
Connector 309 looks good from what I can see down there. Voltmeter reads 11.2 volts on condenser relay plug with key on. Relay reads 78 across pins 1 and 2.
The driver's side fan is the A/C condenser fan. Based on what you described, it sounds like there may be an open (break) on the ground wires going to the Condenser Fan Relay.
Originally Posted by tech8
Unplug the connector to Fan Switch A, jump it with a small paper clip or wire. With the ignition in the ON position (car not running), does both fans run? If only the radiator fan runs and not the condenser fan, then ground is not getting to the condenser fan relay.
Ground needs to come from the ECM or Fan Switch so that the condenser fan relay coil closes the relay contact to allow power through the relay to the fan. (The relay is normally open, and no power goes through it until it is closed.)
Have you tried jumping the harness connector on the fan switch to see if both fans run?
I had fan switch a jumper wired, key on, and got power on condenser relay connecter. So would it be a bad wire between the relay in front quarter and fan? Could I just run new wires from relay to fan?
If there is power on the Blu/Yel wire at the condenser fan relay harness with the fan switch jumped; then, Yes, you can run a new wire between that and the condenser fan.
So I replaced the wiring harness between connector 309 and the condenser fan. Am now a proud owner of two working cooling fans! Thank you very much for the assistance guys.
1993 Accord LX driver side fan not coming on
