2005 Accord 2.4L Rough Idle/Engine Dies P1009 Code - SOLVED - Not VVT Issue
Hi everyone! First post here. I decided since I got so much good information from this forum that I should give some back regarding an issue I just solved with my 2005 Accord LX 2.4L. It has to do with the engine running poorly, a P1009 code and a very poor choice of placement for a bad rag. I wanted to make sure I got this information out there since the P1009 code almost led me down a long path involving the variable valve timing system and timing chain. Thankfully, I stopped and checked some basic things before digging in and found the issue that I unknowingly created in the first place.
TOO LONG DIDN'T READ VERSION: It was a small, barely noticeable piece of blue lint from a towel I had in the engine compartment which had caught on a wire in the MAF Sensor. It was not the VVT system. It was not low oil or wrong oil. It was not a jumped or stretched timing chain. All I had to do was gently pick the lint off the MAF wire with a small guitar string, spray some MAF Sensor cleaner on it and reinstall. Problem solved.
Now...for anyone who cares to check their situation against mine, here you go.
Background:
Vehicle has 165,000 miles on it and has been driven relatively gently in central Wisconsin for the last 5 years or so.
Oil changes completed per maintenance schedule since we purchased the vehicle with 90,000 miles on it except for once this winter.
Oil ran low on it since it was being driven 6 miles a day and we didn't change it at 3 months. (This is important because it made me very worried about having a stretched and jumped timing chain) If you can pull your valve cover then you will be able to follow any number of directions on google or youtube to verify your timing chain hasn't jumped.
Issue:
Drove the vehicle 8 miles to my parent's place last week. Car performed just fine. Several hours later, began to drive to town to run an errand. On the way up a hill the vehicle shifted hard twice (jerked a bit). I chalked it up to an aging vehicle and made a note to check out the transmission fluid. On the way down the hill I noticed a loss of power when trying to accelerate (strange for going downhill). When I got to the intersection, the engine started idling very roughly (shuddering) and died after about 6 seconds. I tried to start the car. It started, engine RPM went to just over 1000 and then decreased to between 500 and 300RPM and began shuddering again, finally shutting off with the CEL illuminated. In the span of a half mile I had gone from a perfectly functioning Accord with plenty of power to a shuddering, limping traffic hazard. If I tried to give it ANY gas, it would shudder and die. The only way I could get it to move would be to put it in gear and let it move along slowly for a few seconds then coax some life into it with the accelerator. Once I got it up to speed and the RPM above 1000 it would go but with limited power. I got the car to a safe place and started snooping around with a bluedriver module.
The P1009 Code - VTC ADVANCE MALFUNCTION
This is the first thing that got my attention. Variable Timing Control System Advance Malfunction
4 possible causes - VTC oil passages could be clogged, PCM failed, VTC solenoid strainer clogged, VTC Actuator failed
4 top reported fixes - Replace variable camshaft timing solenoid, replace engine oil, replace oil filter, replace timing chain
Basically, it was telling me that this system of 3 components (VVT strainer, solenoid and spool valve) couldn't do its job and change valve timing to get my car to run right. This happens when your oil is contaminated and clogs the strainers in the components and oil pressure is not available. This is where I went wrong...I believed it without checking anything else.
SO...I started with the strainer (behind the serpentine belt auto tensioner) then moved to check the solenoid (passenger side of the engine) then the spool valve (back side of the engine). What I was looking for (clogged screens or non-functioning solenoids) was not there. I tested the solenoids by putting 12V across them and making sure they cycled. There are several videos out there of people pulling these components, cleaning them, etc. Easy to find and follow. After cleaning them and running the engine at each step only to have it shudder and die again I was becoming concerned.
IS IT MY TIMING?
I started worrying that it might be related to a low oil event this last Winter and a stretched and jumped timing chain. I guess this is usually accompanied by a P0341 code but I have bad enough luck that I figured I'd better look into it. To check this, you need to pull the valve cover and a small plastic cover in the passenger side front wheel well. After doing this you crank the engine to top dead center with a ratchet and a 19mm socket and verify that the timing marks on the cam sprockets line up. Again, there are quite a few videos out there on how to do this. I was pretty happy at how easy it was to do and to my relief my timing was still good and my chain had no slack in it.
CHECKING SOME BASIC THINGS:
Relieved but still somewhat annoyed that I hadn't fixed anything I decided to spend the rest of my night checking a couple other things that I thought of while waiting for all my VVT components to come in the next day so I could shotgun some parts.
The internet had mentioned something about the throttle body being dirty and the throttle position sensor failing. Visually inspected these and moved on since they looked clean and the throttle position registered on the bluedriver.
Might as well check the air filter...shame on me for not changing it sooner. It was pretty bad but nothing was getting through that I could see.
Check the MAF Sensor (no real reason other than I knew they cause a lot of issues if they are dirty)....
THE MAF SENSOR AND MY STUPID BLUE TOWEL OF DESTRUCTION:
The sensor looked nice and clean but something was a bit strange. Inside the opening where air passes through there are the two small, copper-colored cylinders and behind those was a silver wire or lead. On that silver wire was a blue piece of something that just didn't look like it belonged. I looked up and staring me in the face was a blue hand towel I had stuck between the fuse box and the quarter panel this last Winter when dealing with the low oil issue. I grabbed it and immediately about 50 small blue tufts floated off it. Somehow one of these had made its way past the filter (possibly a rolled gasket from a previous install) and hung up on the MAF sensor wire. I grabbed the smallest guitar string I had around for cleaning carb orifices and started trying to dislodge the fiber without wrecking the sensor. After a while I got it to pull off clean. I sprayed the sensor down again and reinstalled everything. I cranked the car over, it fired and ran/revved beautifully again. I changed the oil and took it for a test drive without issue.
As stated in the beginning, I almost went down the wrong path here. The lack of readily available VVT parts in my area turned out to be the thing that gave me a second to pause, take a breath and check stuff I should have checked in the first place.
I hope this information helps someone else out there who is pulling their hair out like I was. All the symptoms I noticed matched what was supposed to happen with VVT system clogging. In retrospect I guess it makes sense that it was the MAF due to how abruptly this happened and the fact that the engine would idle well for several seconds prior to idling poorly.
Thanks to the forum community for all the great information and help!
TOO LONG DIDN'T READ VERSION: It was a small, barely noticeable piece of blue lint from a towel I had in the engine compartment which had caught on a wire in the MAF Sensor. It was not the VVT system. It was not low oil or wrong oil. It was not a jumped or stretched timing chain. All I had to do was gently pick the lint off the MAF wire with a small guitar string, spray some MAF Sensor cleaner on it and reinstall. Problem solved.
Now...for anyone who cares to check their situation against mine, here you go.
Background:
Vehicle has 165,000 miles on it and has been driven relatively gently in central Wisconsin for the last 5 years or so.
Oil changes completed per maintenance schedule since we purchased the vehicle with 90,000 miles on it except for once this winter.
Oil ran low on it since it was being driven 6 miles a day and we didn't change it at 3 months. (This is important because it made me very worried about having a stretched and jumped timing chain) If you can pull your valve cover then you will be able to follow any number of directions on google or youtube to verify your timing chain hasn't jumped.
Issue:
Drove the vehicle 8 miles to my parent's place last week. Car performed just fine. Several hours later, began to drive to town to run an errand. On the way up a hill the vehicle shifted hard twice (jerked a bit). I chalked it up to an aging vehicle and made a note to check out the transmission fluid. On the way down the hill I noticed a loss of power when trying to accelerate (strange for going downhill). When I got to the intersection, the engine started idling very roughly (shuddering) and died after about 6 seconds. I tried to start the car. It started, engine RPM went to just over 1000 and then decreased to between 500 and 300RPM and began shuddering again, finally shutting off with the CEL illuminated. In the span of a half mile I had gone from a perfectly functioning Accord with plenty of power to a shuddering, limping traffic hazard. If I tried to give it ANY gas, it would shudder and die. The only way I could get it to move would be to put it in gear and let it move along slowly for a few seconds then coax some life into it with the accelerator. Once I got it up to speed and the RPM above 1000 it would go but with limited power. I got the car to a safe place and started snooping around with a bluedriver module.
The P1009 Code - VTC ADVANCE MALFUNCTION
This is the first thing that got my attention. Variable Timing Control System Advance Malfunction
4 possible causes - VTC oil passages could be clogged, PCM failed, VTC solenoid strainer clogged, VTC Actuator failed
4 top reported fixes - Replace variable camshaft timing solenoid, replace engine oil, replace oil filter, replace timing chain
Basically, it was telling me that this system of 3 components (VVT strainer, solenoid and spool valve) couldn't do its job and change valve timing to get my car to run right. This happens when your oil is contaminated and clogs the strainers in the components and oil pressure is not available. This is where I went wrong...I believed it without checking anything else.
SO...I started with the strainer (behind the serpentine belt auto tensioner) then moved to check the solenoid (passenger side of the engine) then the spool valve (back side of the engine). What I was looking for (clogged screens or non-functioning solenoids) was not there. I tested the solenoids by putting 12V across them and making sure they cycled. There are several videos out there of people pulling these components, cleaning them, etc. Easy to find and follow. After cleaning them and running the engine at each step only to have it shudder and die again I was becoming concerned.
IS IT MY TIMING?
I started worrying that it might be related to a low oil event this last Winter and a stretched and jumped timing chain. I guess this is usually accompanied by a P0341 code but I have bad enough luck that I figured I'd better look into it. To check this, you need to pull the valve cover and a small plastic cover in the passenger side front wheel well. After doing this you crank the engine to top dead center with a ratchet and a 19mm socket and verify that the timing marks on the cam sprockets line up. Again, there are quite a few videos out there on how to do this. I was pretty happy at how easy it was to do and to my relief my timing was still good and my chain had no slack in it.
CHECKING SOME BASIC THINGS:
Relieved but still somewhat annoyed that I hadn't fixed anything I decided to spend the rest of my night checking a couple other things that I thought of while waiting for all my VVT components to come in the next day so I could shotgun some parts.
The internet had mentioned something about the throttle body being dirty and the throttle position sensor failing. Visually inspected these and moved on since they looked clean and the throttle position registered on the bluedriver.
Might as well check the air filter...shame on me for not changing it sooner. It was pretty bad but nothing was getting through that I could see.
Check the MAF Sensor (no real reason other than I knew they cause a lot of issues if they are dirty)....
THE MAF SENSOR AND MY STUPID BLUE TOWEL OF DESTRUCTION:
The sensor looked nice and clean but something was a bit strange. Inside the opening where air passes through there are the two small, copper-colored cylinders and behind those was a silver wire or lead. On that silver wire was a blue piece of something that just didn't look like it belonged. I looked up and staring me in the face was a blue hand towel I had stuck between the fuse box and the quarter panel this last Winter when dealing with the low oil issue. I grabbed it and immediately about 50 small blue tufts floated off it. Somehow one of these had made its way past the filter (possibly a rolled gasket from a previous install) and hung up on the MAF sensor wire. I grabbed the smallest guitar string I had around for cleaning carb orifices and started trying to dislodge the fiber without wrecking the sensor. After a while I got it to pull off clean. I sprayed the sensor down again and reinstalled everything. I cranked the car over, it fired and ran/revved beautifully again. I changed the oil and took it for a test drive without issue.
As stated in the beginning, I almost went down the wrong path here. The lack of readily available VVT parts in my area turned out to be the thing that gave me a second to pause, take a breath and check stuff I should have checked in the first place.
I hope this information helps someone else out there who is pulling their hair out like I was. All the symptoms I noticed matched what was supposed to happen with VVT system clogging. In retrospect I guess it makes sense that it was the MAF due to how abruptly this happened and the fact that the engine would idle well for several seconds prior to idling poorly.
Thanks to the forum community for all the great information and help!
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Douglas711
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Jan 10, 2016 04:37 PM



